| Home  Blogs Help Search Login Register  
« previous next »
Pages: [1] Print
Author Topic: Replacing sump and timing cover gaskets without removing the engine  (Read 20572 times)
perry
Newbie
*
Posts: 5


« on: September 15, 2017, 01:07:31 pm »

Hi guys my 2.2 Murena has leaks on both sump and timing cover, can I do the replacement just by lowering the motor using a trolley jack axle stands and a typical engine hoist?
Logged
Jon Weywadt
YaBB God
*****
Posts: 1002



« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2017, 10:56:54 pm »

Hi guys my 2.2 Murena has leaks on both sump and timing cover, can I do the replacement just by lowering the motor using a trolley jack axle stands and a typical engine hoist?

It CAN be done, but it is not easy. I pulled the head on my Murena about 2 years ago and to do that I had to remove the end cap over the timing chain with the engine in place. It is the top part of the end cover over the timing chain. I think it is possible to remove the bolts from the lower cover with the engine in place. If you want more room to work, then remove the bolt in the left engine support and lower that end about 4"-5". BUT DONT FORGET to first remove the bolt in the upper, rear engine mount. The little bone shaped one that attaches the engine to the rear wall. That is also needed if you want to remove the water pump. You will damage the head, or support if you forget. I believe you also, probably, will need to remove the cooling pipes that run by that end.

Good luck. I invented several new swear words in the process, cause it is not easy if you leave the engine in the car.
Logged

Matranaut par excellence Cool
perry
Newbie
*
Posts: 5


« Reply #2 on: September 16, 2017, 12:28:49 am »

Thanks, so how easy is it to remove the motor bearing in mind it will be done at home without a manual?
Logged
Jon Weywadt
YaBB God
*****
Posts: 1002



« Reply #3 on: September 17, 2017, 02:34:32 pm »

Thanks, so how easy is it to remove the motor bearing in mind it will be done at home without a manual?

It is not too difficult to remove the left engine support bolt. Remember to first remove the horizontal bolt in the upper, rear engine mount next to the mechanical fuel pump.
You need to support the left side of the engine with a floor jack or such. Lift slightly to take the weight off the left engine mount so the bolt does not carry the weight. Then it should be easy to punch it out.
Logged

Matranaut par excellence Cool
perry
Newbie
*
Posts: 5


« Reply #4 on: September 18, 2017, 03:39:10 pm »

Do the drive shafts need to be removed at all?
Logged
jlg
Newbie
*
Posts: 20


« Reply #5 on: September 22, 2017, 11:48:53 pm »

Hi,

I replaced the sump gasket on my 2.2 recently. I proceeded as follows:
- drain the oil
- remove the oil level sensor (on the front side of the sump). It will be damaged if not removed and replacement ones are very difficult to find.
- suspend the engine using a strong square section tube put across the engine bay and attached to the lifting bracket mounted on the cylinder head (near thermostat)
- remove the 2 special screws holding the bearing of the long driveshaft
- remove and suspend the brake calliper
- Remove the bolts holding the trailing arm (2 bolts at the front, one on the shock absorber, one on the antiroll bar)
- remove trailing arm with driveshaft still attached to the hub (saves a hub nut)
- lift the engine to be able to remove the lower right engine mount bolt (note the position of the spacers)
- remove he numerous screws fastening the sump (watch for the varying length and the 2 hidden ones behind the flywheel)
- curse while trying to get the sump off

I have not done the timing case but it may be a bit of a nightmare as there is not much space between it and the chassis member. You will have to drain the cooling fluid, maybe remove the water pump (lack of clearance) which means lower the gearbox engine mout. Remember to latch the chain tensioner and be careful with the position of the distributor's gear in the top half of the timing case. Also note that if you have a leak between the 2 halves of the timing case, the seal for this is part of the cylinder head gasket!

Best of luck,
JL.

Logged
roy4matra
YaBB God
*****
Posts: 1213



« Reply #6 on: September 24, 2017, 12:47:39 pm »

Hi guys my 2.2 Murena has leaks on both sump and timing cover, can I do the replacement just by lowering the motor using a trolley jack axle stands and a typical engine hoist?

Hello Perry,

Whilst replacing the sump gasket can be done without removing the engine, it is really not a job for someone inexperienced with these cars and engines.

To change the timing case seal and maybe gaskets (but it is the seal that is generally the cause of the leak) is more than likely not possible as there is so little room to get on the crankshaft pulley bolt, or to remove the pulley, and it really is better to remove the engine completely and do the job properly.

Have you read the details on my FAQ pages?  It is too long to go into everything here, but if you emailed me directly I can help.

Updated:
To add a little more detail here for you and others, JL's itemised description for removing the sump with the engine in situ, is good, and whilst this can be done; when it comes to removing the timing case too then it is not really on.  The problem is that there is so little room between the timing case and the inside of the RH chassis, and the crank pulley and water pump have to come off... and getting a socket on the crank pulley bolt and undoing it, will be extremely difficult if not impossible just on its own!

Changing a water pump in situ is a tricky enough job on its own.  You have to know the procedure to gain enough space to get at all the bolts.  This is an engine and installation that once you know well, you can do various jobs without removing the engine if you really want to, but even though I know it well, have worked on lots of them, and I'm a professional technician with all the right tools, even I would always take the engine out to do the sump gasket and timing case seal.

Oh and one final warning - even if you have a workshop manual, and this originally only covered the 1.6 which is quite different, there are mistakes in it so you can't follow it blindly otherwise you will get in trouble.

Roy
« Last Edit: September 28, 2017, 11:51:36 am by roy4matra » Logged

pezzer
Newbie
*
Posts: 3


« Reply #7 on: October 20, 2017, 06:41:47 am »

Thanks...
Logged
Pages: [1] Print 
« previous next »
Jump to: