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Author Topic: Alternator challenge  (Read 805 times)
mhi
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Posts: 44


« on: February 27, 2019, 03:32:53 pm »

My J63's alternator has failed, presumably of old age such as worn-out brushes. My problem is with removing it for repair or replacement. I'm stuck with two and a half problems, mostly because it's been there for 25 years and now does not want to move. If I have to, I'll put it back together and send the car to a professional, but if possible, I'd prefer to do this with hand tools in my driveway.

1. How should the 2-pin plug for the ignition (+) and warning lamp wires be removed? I can see the plug, brown in the attached picture, but I can't work out how whether it needs to be unclipped somewhere or just needs more force. The alternator should be a Valeo A14N75, the 105 A version.

2. The alternator belt adjusting bolt is rusted into the adjusting nut. Is there any secret to releasing it? Or if not, is there an angle from which I could cut the bolt (and to fit a stainless replacement)?

3. The half-problem is that the big pivot bolt holding the alternator to its bracket is fitted with its head facing the radiator, and it's longer than the gap between engine and radiator. I'm resigned to loosening the radiator a bit to be able to get it out. Should it be replaced the other way round, with the nut next to the radiator, and the head of the bolt towards the back of the car?

  - Mark, Cambridgeshire, UK
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1994 Espace RXE 2.0 (J636)
mhi
Jr. Member
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Posts: 44


« Reply #1 on: February 27, 2019, 08:24:14 pm »

Update: connector unplugged by pulling hard and wiggling. There is a plastic hook on each side of the brown connector to latch it in place, but no good way to squeeze these to release the plug easily.

The other one and a half questions are still relevant, but not urgent. After a lot of experimenting, I changed the brushes without removing the alternator.

It sounds easy, but wasn't, because most of this has to be done by feel at an odd angle. Remove jack and air cleaner (hose clamp tool) to provide access. Disconnect battery negative. On the back of the alternator, unplug 2-pin connector, unclip rubber insulator over heavy cable terminal and undo its nut (10 mm) to disconnect. Unclip the black plastic cover. Unplug regulator leads. Unscrew 2 fixing screws for the regulator (T20). Wiggle it out. Replace brushes in the regulator on the bench (soldering iron, hacksaw). Reverse all this to reassemble.

  - Mark
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1994 Espace RXE 2.0 (J636)
roy4matra
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Posts: 947



« Reply #2 on: March 01, 2019, 12:29:38 am »

My J63's alternator has failed, presumably of old age such as worn-out brushes. My problem is with removing it for repair or replacement. I'm stuck with two and a half problems, mostly because it's been there for 25 years and now does not want to move. If I have to, I'll put it back together and send the car to a professional, but if possible, I'd prefer to do this with hand tools in my driveway.

1. How should the 2-pin plug for the ignition (+) and warning lamp wires be removed? I can see the plug, brown in the attached picture, but I can't work out how whether it needs to be unclipped somewhere or just needs more force. The alternator should be a Valeo A14N75, the 105 A version.

You have now done this, but you are correct - there are 'legs' either side that lock the plug into the case, but since it is virtually impossible to release them in any way, you just have to pull it a bit harder and wiggle it around a little.

Quote
2. The alternator belt adjusting bolt is rusted into the adjusting nut. Is there any secret to releasing it? Or if not, is there an angle from which I could cut the bolt (and to fit a stainless replacement)?

I've always used Plus Gas to release rusted nuts or bolts.  It is very good as it is a proper penetrating oil.  Don't use something like WD40 which is a 'jack of all trades' but not really very good at penetrating like a dedicated product.

Quote
3. The half-problem is that the big pivot bolt holding the alternator to its bracket is fitted with its head facing the radiator, and it's longer than the gap between engine and radiator. I'm resigned to loosening the radiator a bit to be able to get it out. Should it be replaced the other way round, with the nut next to the radiator, and the head of the bolt towards the back of the car?

  - Mark, Cambridgeshire, UK

I had to replace my 105 amp alternator on my Quadra and the bolt had to come out from the front, which meant moving both the radiator and air con. radiator as the bolt is long and there is insufficient room, as you have found.  I put mine back the same way.  I can't remember now but I think it doesn't fit or go in the other way.  I found that I didn't need to completely remove the radiators on my Series 1, I just removed the plate across the top so I could lift the radiator out of the bottom rubbers, and then moved it slightly out of the way to get the bolt out and back in.  I didn't even disturb the hoses as there was enough flex in the system.  Not sure though if it is possible on the Series 2 that you have.

Roy
« Last Edit: March 01, 2019, 09:00:34 am by roy4matra » Logged

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