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Author Topic: Espace JE doorlock  (Read 1443 times)
Anders Dinsen
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« on: February 03, 2019, 12:28:43 pm »

The door remotes stopped working a while ago: Both keys failed at the same time. Unfortunately they coulnd't be repaired or replaced, so for a couple of years we've used the door lock to open and lock the car. Unfortunately it failed a couple of weeks ago. Today I got the lock cylinder out (a little inspection camera came in handy).

There's a piece broken off in the lock cylinder which should have driven a little mechanism which in turn drives the arm and the linkage to the door lock itself.

I've found a replacement lock cylinder on eBay with a new set of keys and will be installing a new remote which I plan to drive the wires on button on the roof console.

« Last Edit: February 03, 2019, 12:31:45 pm by Anders Dinsen » Logged

'82 Murena 2.2 prep 142
'01 Grand Espace 24v
'08 Smart Fortwo 0,8 cdi
roy4matra
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« Reply #1 on: February 08, 2019, 01:20:05 pm »

The door remotes stopped working a while ago: Both keys failed at the same time. Unfortunately they couldn't be repaired or replaced...

Hello Anders, was it definitely faults with both keys?  That seems like high odds to both fail at the same time.  It suggests to me is was more like part of the system failed, which would mean both keys would fail to work at the same time.  I assume you have tried re-synchronising the keys yourself?  Since you had both keys working the immobiliser is set for two keys, so you have to resync. both keys one after the other in the same 'time window'.  You can't do one only because it will be looking for two keys.

Roy
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #2 on: February 14, 2019, 10:06:26 am »

Hello Roy - Thanks for your reply to my brief post. I'm very sorry I've taken time to reply back!

Hello Anders, was it definitely faults with both keys?  That seems like high odds to both fail at the same time.  

Well, it was a couple of years ago now. One failed first, then the other one about 6-12 months later. The symptom was in both cases the same: The signal level dropped and couldn't be measured, like it was running on a very worn-out battery. Replacement didn't help. After both had failed, I sent the pcbs for repair to a German shop that claimed they could fix them - unfortunately they couldn't and I didn't get them back.

(The imobilizer coil with its chip is still in the key.)

So we have lived with locking the car using the button at the roof console and using the doorlock.

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I assume you have tried re-synchronising the keys yourself?

My garage used a measurement tool they had to determine that the signal level from the keys was too low for the key to function, so no.

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Since you had both keys working the immobiliser is set for two keys, so you have to resync. both keys one after the other in the same 'time window'.  You can't do one only because it will be looking for two keys.

I actually didn't know that there was a method for resynchronizing keys. Will it be possible to buy new remotes and connect them? My garage found it was very expensive.

I've now fitted a new door lock, so at least that's settled Smiley
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'82 Murena 2.2 prep 142
'01 Grand Espace 24v
'08 Smart Fortwo 0,8 cdi
ernst
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« Reply #3 on: February 21, 2019, 12:47:55 pm »

Hello Anders
The lock cylinder in my Espace 1997 was defective.
My neighbor (spare part manager at Renault dealer) ordered a new lock cylinder in France, which fitted the ignition key. (the seemed price about 600, - kr)
The remote control in the ignition key for my Espace 2001 did not work after I changed the rubber switch. It is difficult to unlock when the remote control does not work, so I sent the key to BMN ELECTRONICS in NŠstved which "fixed" it for 300, - kr.
The remote control worked when I got it back, but after approx. 14 days it didn't work again. Back to BMN, who tested the remote that said it is ok, but it has to be re-encoded to the car.
How to Make an Espace Huh
(my Peugeot 607 had the same problem, but it is described in the instruction book how the remote control is re-encoded with the car)
mvh Ernst
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roy4matra
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« Reply #4 on: February 25, 2019, 02:30:58 pm »

Hello Roy - Thanks for your reply to my brief post. I'm very sorry I've taken time to reply back!

Well, it was a couple of years ago now. One failed first, then the other one about 6-12 months later...

Ah so they didn't both fail at exactly the same time, which changes my diagnosis.

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The symptom was in both cases the same: The signal level dropped and couldn't be measured, like it was running on a very worn-out battery. Replacement didn't help. After both had failed, I sent the pcbs for repair to a German shop that claimed they could fix them - unfortunately they couldn't and I didn't get them back.

Odd and incorrect not sending them back - playing devil's advocate here, maybe they did repair them and kept them, but just claimed they couldn't repair them! Smiley

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(The imobilizer coil with its chip is still in the key.)

Thank goodness you only sent the PCB away!


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My garage used a measurement tool they had to determine that the signal level from the keys was too low for the key to function, so no...

I actually didn't know that there was a method for resynchronizing keys.

That has been on my website in the FAQ section for years and explains not only how but the difference between programming and re-synchronisation, which is important.

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Will it be possible to buy new remotes and connect them? My garage found it was very expensive.

You used to be able to buy new remotes specific to the VIN, but as these vehicles have been out of manufacture over 15 years now, I don't know the latest situation.

If you did get new Plips as Renault call them, that is when you have to use the Renault Clip to program the new ones into the computer before they would work.  This is partly what adds to the cost.  The other is that if they were too cheap to buy, it would circumvent the security aspect by allowing anyone to buy some to steal the cars.

But as I explain on my website, re-synchronising Plips you can do yourself.  With the rolling code if you only ever used one key/plip, the other Plip can get so far out of sequence it needs to be re-synchronised.

However, this is all academic now as you don't have the PCBs.  The low output I would have said was low battery and then with new batteries you would have just needed to re-synchronise them, to get it working again.  That was probably why they didn't initially work after new batteries were inserted.

Roy
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BrianM
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« Reply #5 on: March 31, 2019, 05:37:37 pm »

For future ref: the remotes are tied to the dash/speedo/clocks display. If you can find a car at the breakers with working remotes you buy them with the dash & fit the dash to your car, then the central locking will work Smiley
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #6 on: April 16, 2019, 04:16:58 am »

However, this is all academic now as you don't have the PCBs.  The low output I would have said was low battery and then with new batteries you would have just needed to re-synchronise them, to get it working again.  That was probably why they didn't initially work after new batteries were inserted.

I have an M. Sc. (EE) and it wasn't the batteries, the electronics failed for some reason. And yes, as I don't have the PCB's, even an academic degree doesn't help Smiley

/Anders
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'82 Murena 2.2 prep 142
'01 Grand Espace 24v
'08 Smart Fortwo 0,8 cdi
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