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Author Topic: Getting ready for the road again  (Read 8096 times)
Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #105 on: August 10, 2019, 06:05:42 pm »

Fantastic work!!! Think you may find that if their was a slight gap after fixing the wings on Matra used what appeared to be fibre glass resin to fill the gaps. The only place this appeared to be present on mine was at the very back where it curves towards the light fitting. Look after that glass, I did have two spares but someone needed them.

Thanks!! The glass is sitting calmly in the passenger seat inside the car Smiley

Thanks for the info about the resin. The glue did not seem flexible at all. I managed to break it using different tools without damaging the wing too much. The cutting wire didn't work well, the glue was just not flexible and thick enough. The wire was cutting into the glass fibre. I found the best tools was a stanley knife to open up where the glue was sitting, and a scraper with a wooden handle which I could pad on with a hammer to cut through the glue.

As can be seen, the glass fibre broke a bit, but it's not as bad as it looks, and the wing needed repair anyway from a dent on the wheel arch.

There's a drain hole under the metal strip where water can escape from the engine room, but moisture tends to collect. As can be seen in the picture, the chassis is not looking too good there.

« Last Edit: September 21, 2019, 11:21:32 pm by Anders Dinsen » Logged

'82 Murena 2.2 prep 142
'01 Grand Espace 24v
'08 Smart Fortwo 0,8 cdi
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« Reply #106 on: August 10, 2019, 07:38:47 pm »

I dug out my left hand spare wing to see it they placed the adhesive in the same place. This is the original from EOW that had damage around the wheel arch. It suddenly dawned on me that I didn't warn you of the possibility of the extra rivets hidden under the glass at the bottom (second photo). Fortunately you didn't have them! EOW had them but Donna didn't!!!!! so they must have been present on the very early cars. You can also see the different types of adhesive they used. One was like a very hard setting resin the other like putty.
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #107 on: August 11, 2019, 07:02:50 am »

I dug out my left hand spare wing to see it they placed the adhesive in the same place. This is the original from EOW that had damage around the wheel arch. It suddenly dawned on me that I didn't warn you of the possibility of the extra rivets hidden under the glass at the bottom (second photo). Fortunately you didn't have them! EOW had them but Donna didn't!!!!! so they must have been present on the very early cars. You can also see the different types of adhesive they used. One was like a very hard setting resin the other like putty.

The rivets are interesting as the workshop manual does not mention them either. It looks like there's another small difference between the two wings as your earlier one has an indent in front of the window. I noticed a bulge in the chassis which seems to be useful for aligning the window correctly, but the bulge is further forward than the indent, isn't it?

It's clear that the wings are held onto the chassis by the rivets at the front (inside door frame) and back (under rear bumper), and bonded with the strong resin like glue along the top and rear edges. And that's all. The putty doesn't really bond the wing to the chassis, it's probably just there to absorb vibrations.
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'82 Murena 2.2 prep 142
'01 Grand Espace 24v
'08 Smart Fortwo 0,8 cdi
Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #108 on: August 11, 2019, 08:08:38 pm »

Not much progress today, partly because Frederik Moes popped by and we talked instead of working Smiley

But I did some cleaning and rivet removal, and it turned out the chassis directly under the metal strip was severely corroded so I cut out the bad parts with the angle grinder. It dug through like it was butter... I still need to remove some more metal, but this is the greater part. There's a weld job coming up.

Fortunately it doesn't look too difficult to fix as it only requires a straight, rectangular peice of steel - and the rest is good.

This is where moisture escapes the engine room in front of the fuel tank, apparantly a very wet spot.
« Last Edit: September 21, 2019, 11:19:28 pm by Anders Dinsen » Logged

'82 Murena 2.2 prep 142
'01 Grand Espace 24v
'08 Smart Fortwo 0,8 cdi
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« Reply #109 on: August 11, 2019, 10:00:52 pm »

Not too bad. I see your swing arm mounts are nice and solid
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #110 on: September 19, 2019, 08:58:54 pm »

Oh, the smell of linseed oil curing... Smiley



« Last Edit: September 21, 2019, 11:30:04 pm by Anders Dinsen » Logged

'82 Murena 2.2 prep 142
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« Reply #111 on: October 13, 2019, 12:53:38 pm »

Finally received the good news from Politecnic that the trailing arms are getting ready, only awaiting epoxy paint and rust treatment. I've been busy the past couple of months, so I haven't had much time to do any real work on the car, but the timing is right as that's changing a bit now. Next week is the "potato holiday" (we used to take the kids out of school and send them into the fields to dig up our potatoes so we'd have something to eat during winter), and I'm taking a few days off with the family - and with myself Wink

I've done some cleaning of the chassis where the rear fender will be fitted and added a third layer of rust treatment around the trailing arm mounting points. It will receive a fourth, and then it'll be done. I'm getting ready to do some grinding, cleaning, and rust protection of the underside of the boot, so I removed and cleaned the ground wire. I thought I had a replacement, but can't find it so I've cleaned the old one, which is also more sturdy than the one I had bought to replace it. It probably wouldn't have survived the engine vibrations.

Happy Sunday!

/Anders
« Last Edit: October 13, 2019, 03:48:08 pm by Anders Dinsen » Logged

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« Reply #112 on: October 17, 2019, 04:52:46 pm »

Looking good!
Can't see any rust getting through that for a few years.
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #113 on: October 18, 2019, 04:55:58 pm »

Looking good!
Can't see any rust getting through that for a few years.

Hopefully more than a "few" Cheesy
Thanks Smiley

Jon came by today for a couple of enjoyable hours with a good chat about Murenas and my project, and we ended up working on the rear hub of the trailing arm which I removed already. We split the bearing, but the inner shell remains with a flange of only 1 mm or less to grip on. The manual prescribes a special tool to be used to get it off. Anyone has advice on a hobby tool that can help here?

/Anders


« Last Edit: October 18, 2019, 05:04:56 pm by Anders Dinsen » Logged

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« Reply #114 on: October 18, 2019, 05:13:22 pm »

Dont shoot me but this is how i got mine off.....
I started using an angel grinder on it in different places. I was doing it very carefully and had got about half way but then i noticed it started to move it had got so hot it virtuall fell off.
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #115 on: October 18, 2019, 07:58:38 pm »

Dont shoot me but this is how i got mine off.....
I started using an angel grinder on it in different places. I was doing it very carefully and had got about half way but then i noticed it started to move it had got so hot it virtuall fell off.

Haha - I love that Cheesy A small blow torch should be the better tool then Smiley
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'82 Murena 2.2 prep 142
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'08 Smart Fortwo 0,8 cdi
MatraIan
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« Reply #116 on: October 18, 2019, 08:16:47 pm »

I also had the same problem, on both sides. Similar to Terry but used a Dremel ( bit easier than my full size grinder) with a cutting disc to go most of the way through. Then sharp hit with a mallet on a wide blade flat screwdriver to split it.
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Murena 2.2 S Red 1984
JL
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« Reply #117 on: October 18, 2019, 10:32:06 pm »

I had to use a 1mm blade on a 115mm dia angle grinder. Cut a diagonal slit deep enough to avid touching the hub, then with a thin cold chisel on the cut give the chisel a sharp blow with a large hammer and the race should split giving enough slack to ease the inner race off the hub.

Good Luck
John
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Jon Weywadt
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« Reply #118 on: October 19, 2019, 06:20:17 pm »


Haha - I love that Cheesy A small blow torch should be the better tool then Smiley

I too think that, missing the special tool, a blow torch is the best solution. It does not need to be super hot to let go.
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« Reply #119 on: October 20, 2019, 12:17:59 pm »

I had one of these, and it worked a dream to pull this off.
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