I understand your difficulty in fitting the shock absorber, but it is strange that the bracket is not welded at the correct angle as I have photos here from an earlier Politecnic semi-trailing arm that shows they were being welded on at an angle. (see photo) I wonder why these are not? I would certainly write to Politecnic to complain and and show them the photos showing how they are wrong. We need them to change back to have them correct.
Thanks Roy. I'll keep you updated on their response. I agree, at least we should make sure future ones will be correct!
I'm going to write to Cyril on a general basis because I know their arm has changed and they don't seem to realise it has, but I have proof. They have told someone else that theirs is definitely correct and no one has ever complained before, so it will be good to know at least one person has! I really don't understand why no one is complaining that these brackets are at the wrong angle.
My next job is taking the engine out. I've never done it before, but I know it's not complicated. However, I can't fit a crane in my garage so I've thought about how to do it. I'm considering buying an engine bar like the one in the picture below. The workshop manual describes a similar tool for suspending the engine while removing the gearbox on the 2.2 (pictured too). My idea is using the bar and the handles on it to carefully lower the engine to the ground.
Whilst this is certainly one way and it can work Anders, there is an even easier way, and you don't have to buy any tool! The first time I took a powertrain (i.e. combined engine and transaxle) out, I used my engine crane and it did work, but it will only work for a Murena without a rear spoiler. The first time I had a Murena with a rear spoiler the crane was no longer good enough as the rear was too high for it. So I made a tool (similar to that professional one) by buying a length of square tube and drilling three holes through it at certain points, and I also bought two long threaded rods which I had one end of each bent to form hooks. But the lengths have to be such that you have to remove the rear glass 'tailgate'. Then you can put the rods through the tube, attach chains or cables to the powertrain, and after removing all that is needed, you then lower the engine to the floor and lift the rear of the body/chassis high enough, put it on stands so the powertrain can be slid out from underneath.
However, since then I have worked out an even better idea that means you don't need to buy or make any tool, nor remove the glass. [now updated, as I had forgotten a couple of things!]
You remove all that is necessary as is normal, and when all you have left is the two cross mountings bolts and the stabiliser bar, you lower the rear of the car until it is virtually on the floor. Now you need a piece of wood to brace the engine to the forward bulkhead and remove the stabiliser link. Next remove the two cross bolts, one at a time, and lower the sump that final inch onto the floor or your low support panel or trolley. Please note down the number of large spacer washers and how many each side of the engine and gearbox mountings, so you know for when refitting. The powertrain will now be sitting quite stable on the floor. Finally you jack the rear of the car back up high enough so you can slide the powertrain out from underneath. (and as Andrew has said you can remove the rear gear change pivot bracket which is only 4 bolts, to give you more clearance) I have done it with the engine sitting on a large piece of hardboard which will slide on the floor, but in Ian's case he had a large piece wood with four 'wheels' so we could roll it out. The 'wheels' were actually small old roller bearings fastened to the sides of the wood, which is why it was so low and ideal for the job!
If you plan to remove the sump with the engine suspended above you, please, please remember to remove the oil level sensor first before you undo any sump bolts! If you attempt to lower the sump with the sensor still in place, you will damage it, and they have not been available for many years.
I plan to then lift the chassis back up as high as possible and put it back on stands. I should then have access to do the jobs I need to do...
Any thoughts on this?
Anders
As I stated above it is right to lift the car high, but if you leave the powertrain under the car and attempt to work on it there, it will take more effort, and it will be much easier if you bring it out from underneath and then work on it comfortably. Once you have finished, you do the reverse and slide it back underneath, lower the car back almost to the floor, if necessary lever up one end slightly to insert the cross bolt through that mounting, then do the same on the opposite side, and attach the stabiliser. Now you can raise the car back to a comfortable height and place the chassis back on stands. Now you can finish putting the rest back.
I have done this now quite a number of times and it really is the easiest way if you don't have access to garage type facilities.
A couple more points... When you undo the sump there are 24 bolts in total, 22 x 7mm ones and 2 x 10mm, so make sure you have them ALL out. There are two at the rear by the flywheel that are recessed and often get missed.
If you intend to remove the lower timing case without taking the top one off I think you will be in trouble. The head gasket is trapped between the two parts of the timing case and there are two vertical bolts fastening them together. Both the upper and lower timing cases are doweled on to the block and head. (the dowels are dowel sleeves with a bolt through them) So if you manage to get the lower timing case off, you risk damaging the head gasket joint between them. And fitting it back will be difficult too.
Before you lower the powertrain, make sure you remove the alternator otherwise it gets in the way.
And no, it is not necessary to remove the cam cover. It is prudent to remove the fuel pump and distributor as these stick up and are vulnerable. I only broke the top of the dipstick as the loop got bent over and I tried to bend it back, but it broke instead. And this was not whilst pulling the powertrain out from underneath, it was whilst we were undoing and removing things at the top of the engine.
That wheel you have in your posting is much too big.
Roy
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