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Matraman
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« Reply #182 on: May 06, 2020, 08:58:34 am » |
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I sympathise with your clutch slave problem. Removing mine was one of the most difficult parts of the renovation so far, and I had the engine and gearbox out of the car! The inside of the slave cylinder had corroded so it had to come out. I ended up with the bell housing on the work bench with the clutch slave overhanging the edge. I removed the circlip and piston and put as large a socket as possible inside the cylinder then attached a short extension to that. I heated the outside of the support casting as hot as I dared then hit the end of the socket extension with a lump hammer. I was dreading breaking the casting but this was the only way I could get the slave cylinder to move. I tried everything else I could think of before arriving at this final solution, but no amount of penetrating fluid, clamps, twisting or gentle tapping would work. If I could have just done a refurbishment with new deals I would have done, but the inside (and outside) of the cylinder were too corroded.
Needless to say, the new slave has plenty of grease on the outside! Good luck with yours, it may not be as bad, mine had been in place for well over 20 years, unlike yours. Could you just renew the seals instead of removing the cylinder?
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #183 on: May 06, 2020, 09:01:30 pm » |
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I sympathise with your clutch slave problem. Removing mine was one of the most difficult parts of the renovation so far, and I had the engine and gearbox out of the car! The inside of the slave cylinder had corroded so it had to come out. I ended up with the bell housing on the work bench with the clutch slave overhanging the edge. I removed the circlip and piston and put as large a socket as possible inside the cylinder then attached a short extension to that. I heated the outside of the support casting as hot as I dared then hit the end of the socket extension with a lump hammer. I was dreading breaking the casting but this was the only way I could get the slave cylinder to move. I tried everything else I could think of before arriving at this final solution, but no amount of penetrating fluid, clamps, twisting or gentle tapping would work. If I could have just done a refurbishment with new deals I would have done, but the inside (and outside) of the cylinder were too corroded.
Needless to say, the new slave has plenty of grease on the outside! Good luck with yours, it may not be as bad, mine had been in place for well over 20 years, unlike yours. Could you just renew the seals instead of removing the cylinder?
I think your sympathy helped - it's out! Ok, it may be the penetrating oil, light beating, twisting, and time. But you guys helped keep me hopful and creative! So I realized today I was actually able to the cylinder it a bit in the housing, and I was able to wiggle it out. I had already yesterday got it pushed around 1 mm inwards. The idea of wedgeing something in and trying to let it push itself out didn't work. Actually the cylinder and the seals inside is perfect. The only reason I wanted to remove it was that I stick to a principle of not draining the brake fluid. It's no big deal, actually, as Roy converted my car to silicone brake fluid before I bought it from him, and that's much easier to work with for a hobby mechanic, but so far I've managed to neither touch the brakes nor clutch cylinders during my restoration project ![Smiley](http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/Smileys/default/smiley.gif) Things are getting serious now. The garage floor is broomed and there's now nothing else to remove on the engine, except the bolts through the three engine mounts, of course! I' not sure why, but I'm pretty excited I need three wooden rods so I can roll the engine out on a think board of plywood. I have the plywood board, but not the rods, so I need to go shopping tomorrow.
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« Last Edit: May 06, 2020, 09:22:35 pm by Anders Dinsen »
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142 (under restoration) 2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah 2024 VW id.buzz Pro
Used to own: 2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v 1997 Renault Matra Espace 2.0 8V 1987 Renault Matra Espace J11 2.2
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roy4matra
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« Reply #191 on: May 09, 2020, 08:14:31 pm » |
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Great job on the video. You made it look so easy.
I know! In a way it *is* an easy job, but since it's my first time and the powertrain is really heavy, I had a constant anxiety about things that could go wrong: The engine could tip over, the car could drop on top. I'm trying to always think ahead when working on the car to keep myself and the car safe. Working with a heavy powertrain like this requires care. But with a little diligence, Roy's good instructions and Jesper's dolly things worked out just fine ![Smiley](http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/Smileys/default/smiley.gif) Well done Anders. As you say it is fairly easy once you have experienced one, and the great thing is you don't need a crane or a hydraulic garage type lift. It won't work for a 1.6 though as the base is not flat like the 2.2 sump, so the powertrain wants to fall over. Next you need a Polybush kit for the stabiliser link. ![Smiley](http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/Smileys/default/smiley.gif) Roy
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« Last Edit: May 09, 2020, 08:41:14 pm by roy4matra »
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #192 on: May 10, 2020, 08:04:58 am » |
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Well done Anders. As you say it is fairly easy once you have experienced one, and the great thing is you don't need a crane or a hydraulic garage type lift. It won't work for a 1.6 though as the base is not flat like the 2.2 sump, so the powertrain wants to fall over.
Thanks Roy! In hindsight, the worst part of the job is actually the fear of something falling and getting damaged. It's a heavy machine! But it's safe Below is a picture of the dolly Jesper has designed - here shown in the back of my Espace in which it fits like a glove ![Wink](http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/Smileys/default/wink.gif) The engine actually doesn't sit on the sump bottom, but on the edges of it, i.e the boltheads into the block. It's a very stable ensemble. Only problem with it is that with the engine on it bends slightly in the middle, so it's not as easy to push around as the rotating wheels might indicate. Next you need a Polybush kit for the stabiliser link. ![Smiley](http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/Smileys/default/smiley.gif) Of course I do! First I have a few small jobs that will keep me busy: * clean engine and gearbox * get the crank pulley off * remove cam chain housing * fit a blanked off water pump housing (Jesper is helping having one made) * get it all screwed together * renew valve seals And then the engine room needs cleaning, etc, etc ![Smiley](http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/Smileys/default/smiley.gif) Best Anders
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« Last Edit: May 10, 2020, 08:07:58 am by Anders Dinsen »
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142 (under restoration) 2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah 2024 VW id.buzz Pro
Used to own: 2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v 1997 Renault Matra Espace 2.0 8V 1987 Renault Matra Espace J11 2.2
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #193 on: May 14, 2020, 08:47:43 pm » |
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it's been a work-busy week, but I have moved on a little on the EWP (electrical water pump) installation as I received the booster pump and a straight connector for the main pump. Also, I've done some work on the actual installation of the pump in the front behind the radiator. Pictures will come. Jesper is helping me make a plug to seal off a blank water pump housing (picture). The housing will require some metal working on the inside to clear away the edges as the pump impeller will be gone and the inside of the pump housing is designed to channel the water around the impeller. That should be removed or it will limit the water flow. I'm thinking about how to make a tool out of peices of 3 mm aluminum for blocking the flywheel if I fnd I can't remove the crank shaft nut without blocking the crank. But perhaps it would be easier to just take the gearbox off. I did remove the lower bolt before taking the engine out, so will be possible even with the engine sitting on the dolly. Hmm. Also, I will be replacing valve seals and has been looking for a good toolset to do the job with. This looks useful: https://www.ebay.de/itm/Druckluft-Ventilschaftdichtung-Ventil-Federspanner-Werkzeug-Satz-Ventilfeder-Set/202821300161Although the actual procedure is different on the 2.2 heads from what's shown here, this video illustrates how a similar toolset is used: https://youtu.be/4xep4wfpd3kThinking, thinking ![Smiley](http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/Smileys/default/smiley.gif) But it's all mostly procrastination from where I really need to turn my attention: Cleaning the engine and then the engine room. However, I've run out of spray degreaser... /Anders
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« Last Edit: May 14, 2020, 09:18:44 pm by Anders Dinsen »
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142 (under restoration) 2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah 2024 VW id.buzz Pro
Used to own: 2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v 1997 Renault Matra Espace 2.0 8V 1987 Renault Matra Espace J11 2.2
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