fast camshaft specs

[Henk]

Hi Anders,

Yes, it's starting and running great now. Before that I had a few issues with the engine. After some searching it was because of a dying alternator. When I put the spare in almost everything was solved!  I had some wire connectors on the ignition coil getting loose while running the car. I change the old wire lugs with eye terminals and bolted these on the coil, problem solved.

And of course the right timing helped a lot. I found 10° advanced timing is the best. Above that doesn't work properly. I was advised 12° or more, but that's not working for this car.
For this standard engine the original ignition is fine. And I will rebuild the old alternator red so it can be used on the 2nd engine.

But most important is I can drive the car around. Because of that I found the clutch was slipping, so I replaced that. And I'm still finding little things to do.

For the spare engine injection project I think you are right to mount a 123ignition. I don't think the original will be working the best in combination with the injection and faster cam.
But first I need the injectors, all connectors, make a wiring loom and so on.

To be continued....

[Anders Dinsen]

Getting on the road is great. Problems show up, but I'm glad to hear your's solving it. I'm still working on getting to that point.

10 degrees on the standard cam makes sense. The period is short and there's little overlap on that cam so the fuel mixture in idle is good. You're probably running 800'ish idle? I have mine at 15 with the Holbay cam, which makes for a decent idle at 1100. It's huting a bit, but that's probably due to the high overlap on the cam and my cylinder head - it most likely short circuits a bit of fuel out the exhaust during idle. I have an AFR meter with a wide band oxygen sensor in the exhaust so I know the mixture is correct now.

I considered fuel injection years back. Most ECU's come with some sort of ignition controller and eliminate the distributor as they run wasted spark configurations with two coils. From an engine management perspective, that's a better system. They usually, however, depend on both a crank sensor and a cam sensor, so there's a bit of work involved and it will be completely custom. I'm not going that route, but staying with the sidedraught carbs. There's more performance to be gained by working on the airflow in the head, especially enlarging the inlet valve seat inner diameter. About the original distributors, in principle they can be tuned to do anything by replacing springs with other springs, but it requires a complete rebuild every time you want to try something different. The original Bosch has an advance curve that suits the original cam only (and vacuum takeoff from the original Solex carb). I have used it on my Holbay cam, but it will never be perfect, so I'm going to change eventually so that I can tune it to the cam and head.

/Anders

[Henk]

Yes, it drives great. Minor issues, but these are solved one by one.

The engine idles somewhere around 750/800 rpm. Needs a bit of warming up, but once once warm it runs very good. Shifting is getting better and better, due to replacing the last weared parts. The electric fuel pump is making some buzzing noise, I have to sort that out also. Maybe a build in one in the tank.

I just recived some new parts for the ignition project. If i'm not mistaken this ecu doesn't need a cam sensor. It's an old Bosch L-Jetronic, as used on the Peugeot 2.2 GTI. The crank sensor is no problem, that's mounted allready. But even this is not in the wiring schedule. I belive it's working with the pulses of the ignition. I have to figure all of this out. Nice winter job!

[Anders Dinsen]

Yes, it drives great. Minor issues, but these are solved one by one.

Great to hear!

The engine idles somewhere around 750/800 rpm. Needs a bit of warming up, but once once warm it runs very good. Shifting is getting better and better, due to replacing the last weared parts. The electric fuel pump is making some buzzing noise, I have to sort that out also. Maybe a build in one in the tank.

I am using a Hüco membrane pump. It's very quiet. There are other, better quality pumps on the market, which are also quiet. Let me know if you want info on my installation.

I just recived some new parts for the ignition project. If i'm not mistaken this ecu doesn't need a cam sensor. It's an old Bosch L-Jetronic, as used on the Peugeot 2.2 GTI. The crank sensor is no problem, that's mounted allready. But even this is not in the wiring schedule. I belive it's working with the pulses of the ignition. I have to figure all of this out. Nice winter job!

The crank sensor mounted on the engine will not work as it is an open coil with ferrite core only. Proper cam sensors includes a permanent magnet to create a magnetic field which induces a current as the two cutouts in the flywheel pass by. The sensor was installed on the 2.2 engines to facilitate some unknown diagnostic equipment and perhaps used in the factory to set up the engines. I have designed and built a unit that uses it (I will post a description of it here on the forum soon), but it took a lot of work and a bit of trickery to get the sensor to produce a signal. In any case, that sensor will only be suitable for diagnostic purposes with special equipment. 

So I'm certain your Bosch ECU will not be able to use that. However, I think you might be able to use the distributor pickup if you lock the distributor advance. I'm guessing here based on some info I just googled up, so I may be wrong about that part...