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Author Topic: 2001 V6 Mark III cambelt change. DIY!!!  (Read 3269 times)
Brad
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Brad


« on: February 10, 2021, 05:09:59 pm »

I’m about to start this project. I have basic mechanical knowledge and have seen an engine removed from one of my earlier 3.0 V6 Espace cars back in 2005 for a cambelt change.

What I would like to know, if anyone can help, is once I have removed the engine what else should I take the opportunity to service, replace or rustproof once I have an empty engine bay. I realise that the condition of the front subframe can finish off one of these cars so I have my fingers crossed in that respect. Whatever it’s condition, provided it is saveable, I intend to get it professionally stripped, painted and rustproofed.

I envisage this total job taking me several months as I am not a mechanic and not in a rush.

My car has done 65000 miles and there is no record of a cambelt change during its 19 year life. Aside from a bubbling power steering fluid issue and a whine from the PAS pump, it is mechanically sound.

Thank you.

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roy4matra
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« Reply #1 on: February 11, 2021, 12:21:18 pm »

I’m about to start this project. I have basic mechanical knowledge and have seen an engine removed from one of my earlier 3.0 V6 Espace cars back in 2005 for a cambelt change.

What I would like to know, if anyone can help, is once I have removed the engine what else should I take the opportunity to service, replace or rustproof once I have an empty engine bay. I realise that the condition of the front subframe can finish off one of these cars so I have my fingers crossed in that respect. Whatever it’s condition, provided it is saveable, I intend to get it professionally stripped, painted and rustproofed.

I envisage this total job taking me several months as I am not a mechanic and not in a rush.

My car has done 65000 miles and there is no record of a cambelt change during its 19 year life. Aside from a bubbling power steering fluid issue and a whine from the PAS pump, it is mechanically sound.

Thank you.


Hello Brad,

You are really lucky the belt has not broken before now, if it has been in from new, or even changed once, as they have a time limit and yours is well beyond that!  Time takes precedence over mileage if the mileage per year is very low.

Whilst the engine is out, you also need to replace the water pump as you would need the engine out to do that as well, and as the block and pump are both alloy, they can be very difficult to separate.  I even had one where I had to damage the pump body to get it off!

Does your V6 have coil packs over the spark plugs with H.T.Leads from the front to the rear spark plugs?  Those rear plugs are difficult to get at in the car, and you should install new ones whilst the engine is out.  The modern long life plugs are good for about 60,000 miles so this is the ideal time. (and they may have not been changed yet from new, based on your mileage)

Roy
« Last Edit: February 12, 2021, 03:56:55 pm by roy4matra » Logged

Brad
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Posts: 6

Brad


« Reply #2 on: February 12, 2021, 12:12:09 am »

Thank you for that advice. I intended using a genuine Renault kit including water pump and tensioner/pulleys but wondered if there was anything else worth attending to whilst the engine was out. Would it be worth replacing all the water hoses and the radiator, for example?

Any advice about this big job will be gratefully received. Thank you.
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roy4matra
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Posts: 1199



« Reply #3 on: February 12, 2021, 04:24:15 pm »

Thank you for that advice. I intended using a genuine Renault kit including water pump and tensioner/pulleys but wondered if there was anything else worth attending to whilst the engine was out. Would it be worth replacing all the water hoses and the radiator, for example?

Any advice about this big job will be gratefully received. Thank you.

Yes obviously all items that are much more easily accessible with the engine out should be checked and if necessary, replaced whilst it is so much easier to get at them.  You should check the alternator, power steering pump and air conditioning pump too since the accessory belt needs to come off and pulley bearings can be checked at that time.

The vehicle is almost 20 years old, so hoses are probably a good idea and things like the thermostat and sender units should be changed whilst the cooling system is drained.  None of these things last forever, and deteriorate over time.  A radiator slowly silts up and causes a reduction in its cooling efficiency, so if it has never been changed before, it needs to be at least be flushed now, but cross-flow radiators are not as easily flushed and a replacement might be better.  If you had, or felt the weight of an old radiator, compared to a new one you would immediately realise how much silt is actually in there.

Roy
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Brad
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Posts: 6

Brad


« Reply #4 on: February 13, 2021, 12:49:56 am »

Thank you, Roy.
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