Getting ready for the road again

[Murenanimal]

I can follow the arguments Roy, will see into it in depth with my garage upon my next maintainence.
For whom it may concern, herewith a couple of images of the electrical water pump installation.
By the way the the electric waterpump was €72,00 a termocontact €28 and 1 hour job €50 totalling €100 plus 21% VAT or €121 all in.

[Anders Dinsen]

The diagram below shows the circuit which I am implementing. As you can see, the booster pump is sitting drawing water from the pipe on the front of the engine, into the engine through the water pump housing, and out through the thermostat housing (both of these will be only the housings). It looks like your pump has been fitted on the water feed from the exansion tank. I find that a little odd as it will mean that it will be continously pumping water out of that and this water will be coming from two sources: The vents on top of the radiator and the vent on the thermostat housing. This, I believe, is suboptimal as these vents are both small and hot. Thus I would expect that the cooling effect will be marginal or at least very limited.

[Anders Dinsen]

I've been chatting on Messenger with Youri and realized that it would be possible to exchange the mounting flange on my new Espace-alternator with the original from my Murena. He did that with a Citroën Visa alternator (correct me if I got it wrong, Youri).

The mounting holes are differently located on the Espace-alternator but apart from that and the rating (Original: 55A, new 70A) the alternators are identical. So I took the new one apart, removing the bearing, refitting the bearing in the old flange and fitting the flange with the new bearing on the new alternator coil and rotor shaft. I now have a new alternator with the correct Murena specific mounting flange. I promise to post some pictures soon. Edit: Pictures added. Model is AS-PL 3007 https://as-pl.com/en/p/A3007

Also, the machine shop called me last week asking some details about the flywheel weight reduction and balancing, so I hope I'll get that back soon.

I'm rather busy with work and other stuff at the moment but I must get the engine lifted off the dolly removing the sump so that I can exchange the gasket. I searched the manual, but I'm unsure if the new cork gasket (with the proper aluminium inserts) should be lubricated when fitted, or if it is best fitted dry?

/Anders

[Matraman]

Hi Anders
I had to remove my sump twice because the thread of the sump plug stripped after refitting the sump during the rebuild (it turned out someone had previously fitted an oversized plug with the wrong thread!). The Chrysler 160 / 180 manual I used said the sump gasket needed oiling before fitting, so I did that first time, however I was getting a small amount of seepage from it  (as well as the sump plug) when I filled it with oil.

I noticed when stripping down the engine initially that there was liquid gasket around the sump gasket, in fact a few bits had squeezed out and ended up on the sump oil pickup. So the second time I refitted the sump, having tapped a new 22 mm hole for a new sump plug, I dry fitted the gasket with a smear of liquid gasket both sides. This seems to be 99% okay, but I do get the odd drip, but it's much less than when I fitted it using just oil on the gasket.

Hopefully that helps a bit.

[Anders Dinsen]

I have no progress on the sump to report but wanted to share a few pictures...