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Author Topic: Worklog of my car  (Read 97594 times)
RazorbackNOR
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« Reply #240 on: August 03, 2012, 01:19:54 pm »

If anybody have a supplier that have some of these i stock, it could be wise to buy up some perhaps.
I think I found some that may be the right size yesterday, it fitted on the sipgot, and entered the hole with enough seal to place the top part of the carb a bit up in the air so it will compress the joined and screwed together.

If this one proves to be sufficent, I will probably buy some of them so we will have little stock we all can use. Only cost 0,75Euro.
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2010 Mazda 3 1,6  Diesel Gunmetal Blue
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RazorbackNOR
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« Reply #241 on: August 07, 2012, 11:44:48 am »

Are we absolutly sure that there is supposed to just be an o-ting on the spigot? I know that's what's in the bag from Simon, but a colleague of mine here who looked at it bothe the pictures and the parts meant that a simring would better hold up the pressure, seal better and fit better.

from Anders' other pictures and mine it could almost look like there is some kind of other seal further up on the stem, and then an o-ring or similar on the recess...

Any input?
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #242 on: August 07, 2012, 08:10:31 pm »

Yes, we're absolutely sure that the carburettor is designed for an o-ring to seal there. Nothing more! Smiley
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RazorbackNOR
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« Reply #243 on: April 01, 2013, 06:03:14 pm »

Could I ask some of you to take a picture of a part on the carburator? I've been looking at in here now, and really can not see that there is any way that the arm on the OVAD valve (Ouverture du volet après départ à froid) can be can be activated by the gas,- or choke linkage.




Also, there is a spring holding it in the "out" position, is this correct? if it is to be springing the other way, it might reach some part of the linkage, but I have never had it open so much that the spring could have changed position....



Or if you see any other mistakes on the carb, please let me know....
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2010 Mazda 3 1,6  Diesel Gunmetal Blue
1983 Matra Murena 2.2 Platine
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RazorbackNOR
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« Reply #244 on: April 11, 2013, 12:00:54 am »

Nobody with access to their carburattor and a camera....?
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« Reply #245 on: April 11, 2013, 10:53:34 am »

Nobody with access to their carburattor and a camera....?

Here you are:



I think this is original. Also no spring...
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RazorbackNOR
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« Reply #246 on: May 03, 2014, 03:22:28 am »

Have had a little time to work on Goldie again after WAY too long time...

Took of the  plastic neck on the carb today to check if the acc pump was working, and yes it seems to spray correctly now, but still doesn't run properly.
But seems I might have gotten something wrong... When I try to accelerate hard it actually backfire back up the carb...
Any ideas...? I would guess that if the lead had somehow been switched, it wouldn't idle as smoothly as it does. Other distributor problems maybe...?

And also, I opened up the green thingy between the carb and engine cover today, is this supposed to be a one-way valve? Mine was just a strainer but one of the discs in there looked a bit strange, will post pictures of it tomorrow.
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variator
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« Reply #247 on: May 03, 2014, 02:12:22 pm »

Hei,

Good to see you soon on the road Smiley

This is how it looks on my car:
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klumzer
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« Reply #248 on: May 03, 2014, 08:40:51 pm »

Hej,

The green thing is an oil separator. (Maybe there is a better word for it in English, someone can correct it.)

There are a lot of perforated discs inside to get oil from the air/fumes above the valves. The air goes into the air duct and the separated oil goes downstream the carb.
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variator
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« Reply #249 on: May 03, 2014, 09:29:08 pm »

The oil mist from the crankcase goes through this and back into the intake. Many years ago this was just a pipe that went into the open air. Now the oil mist being burned in the engine.According to official rules
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RazorbackNOR
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« Reply #250 on: May 05, 2014, 10:28:37 am »

Hej,

The green thing is an oil separator. (Maybe there is a better word for it in English, someone can correct it.)

There are a lot of perforated discs inside to get oil from the air/fumes above the valves. The air goes into the air duct and the separated oil goes downstream the carb.


Okay, if it's just a separator it looks to be as it should. Just seemed to remember somewhere that someone said it was a oneway-valve also. But won't this draw a lot of false air to the bottom of the inlet manifold, since this is also connected to the plastic neck above the carburator?
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RazorbackNOR
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« Reply #251 on: May 05, 2014, 01:01:27 pm »

But back to the engine problem...
What would cause the backfires up the carburator? Timing being off, so that it would spark when the inlet valve was open?


Could someone also give me a run-down on the how-to's of adjusting the timing with a stroboskop?
« Last Edit: May 05, 2014, 03:53:20 pm by RazorbackNOR » Logged

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GP
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« Reply #252 on: May 05, 2014, 07:20:37 pm »

Probably too much information here (ignore the last bit) but you are looking for 10 deg at 900 rpm. ignition advance at idle. (I use 12 deg. myself).  
I suspect your strobe light is a bit more basic than this one and it probably just plugs onto the spark plug and into the H.T. Lead. Cap.  
N.B. No. 1 cylinder is the one nearest the distributor.
The timing marks are on the flywheel through the viewing hole at the top of the gearbox. Mark them with white paint for extra clarity.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYGU7mTwsZc

As an aside has the camshaft been out recently as this could be in the wrong place. I have seen some great bangs with this set up wrong!
« Last Edit: May 05, 2014, 07:23:03 pm by GP » Logged
RazorbackNOR
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« Reply #253 on: May 07, 2014, 09:42:20 pm »

No GP, it's about the same as that one. Instructions were about the same as you described.

Here are the Pictures and video I managed to capture during.

Click the last one for a video.






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roy4matra
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« Reply #254 on: May 11, 2014, 12:25:09 pm »

N.B. No. 1 cylinder is the one nearest the distributor.

NO IT IS NOT.

No.1 cylinder on these engines is next to the flywheel.  Talbot and Simca before them for some reason counted backwards. :-)  Unlike most engines where No.1 cylinder is at the front next to the timing case, these engines have No.1 at the flywheel end and No.4 at the timing case end.  If you check the cylinder block (below the head joint on the exhaust side) you will see the cylinder numbers cast into the block.

So for ignition timing it is the cylinder next to the flywheel that must be timed to that cut mark in the flywheel, and as stated the static timing is 10 degrees before top dead centre.

Regarding the distributor, if it has ever been taken out, the offset connection at its base means it can only go back with the shaft in the same rotational place.  However, if whilst the distributor was out you also removed the distributor drive piece with the skew gear that mates with the camshaft, then this can be put back in various positions since there are many teeth.  If it is mated with the camshaft in a different rotational position, the distributor now has to be reset too.  You can still get the car to work fine but the H.T. leads may now be in different positions too.  Anyone who has worked with older Ford engines where the gear was always attached directly to the distributor shaft or who understands these things, will understand what I am talking about.  I could for instance set a 2.2 to run properly with the drive gear mated in any of the different teeth mating positions, but the distributor and possibly leads would need to be set individually for each setting.  The firing order always stays the same of course.

Roy
« Last Edit: May 11, 2014, 12:39:40 pm by roy4matra » Logged

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