Worklog of my car

[RazorbackNOR]

Not much progress nowadays because of a meter of snow all over the country.... But a little "behind-the-scenes" work is allways good to have.

Been stripping the old carb I got from the slaughter, the one seen on some of my old pictures, fuel had become solidified, gaskets an o-rings stiff and broke, and there was a serious oxidation on the body. Tried first boiling it in citric acid, didn't do much, got a serious case of "mud" on it, scrubbed it of, but didn't do much for the look of it.

Brought it with me to fork, and got serious on it with a soft sand blaster here. Tht did the trick!
Just got it masked, and ready for a clear coat.

[Jon Weywadt]

Brought it with me to fork, and got serious on it with a soft sand blaster here. Tht did the trick!
Just got it masked, and ready for a clear coat.

It looks really good.

Just a warning about sand blasting engine and carburator parts. Sand has sharp, irregular edges (which is why it cleans so well) and small grains can stick in the soft aluminium surface. This can increase wear, if against a moving part (i.e. shafts)
 
It is far better to blast with glass beads, as they do not have a tendency to stick.

[RazorbackNOR]

Hmm, does anybody know how to separate the two halves of the air filter box? Noticed now that there is a lot of dust inside it, but the two halves won't come apart.... If I apply more power somewhere now, I'm sure somethings gone snap.....

[Jon Weywadt]

Hmm, does anybody know how to separate the two halves of the air filter box?
---.

On a 2.2 you loosten the metal clips on the top of the housing. Then the top needs to be twisted counter clockwise (as I recall) by about 1/4" so the tabs on the housing can slide out of the plastic brackets on the top. Then pull the top off. If you have already tried that, it is probably due to dust built-uo making the parts stick together. Perhaps WD40 can make them slide easier.

[RazorbackNOR]

That part was no problem Jon, but separating the bottom halv of the filterbox is....

The bottom half is also made up of two parts, and splitting this what I meant....

[Jon Weywadt]

That part was no problem Jon, but separating the bottom halv of the filterbox is....

The bottom half is also made up of two parts, and splitting this what I meant....

I may be wrong, but I suspect it is glued together.

[RazorbackNOR]

Wouln't think so, If gaps abit on one side when I try to force them a part, on the other side there looks like a circular tab, but it doesn't seem lik it is possible to depress it in any way. That bottom half seem to be very full of dust.

[Jon Weywadt]

I will check mine this evening and let you know what I find.

[Jon Weywadt]

Ok, you are right. It is not easy to see because the parts seperate where the plastic is moulded to keep the strap in place.

On mine I could not see any cracks at all until i pushed hard on the middle of the housing. But I did find that on the side that is up against the engine block, there is a rivet through the plastic, keeping the parts together. Presumably by removint the rivet the two halves pul apart with ease.

I have included photos below, showing the crack and the rivet on the opposite side. So remove this rivet and it should be easy.

Good luck.

[RazorbackNOR]

Hmm, no rivet inplace here, but seems like it could be some kind of plastic plug of some kind.... But doesn't seem to be willing to be open without removing this. Which is probably what has been done on your since there is a metal rivet there.

Anyone else have something on the subject....?

[Jon Weywadt]

Hmm, no rivet inplace here, but seems like it could be some kind of plastic plug of some kind....
---

If you see markings that indicate a plastic plug, try pushing it in with a parallel punch tool.
Once the filter halves are apart you can push the plug out and reinsert it when assembling.

It is also possible that there are tabs, similar to those holding the top in place, so that you have to twist the bottom half a little bit to get them to disengage. Problem is that they would be hidden under the plate that sits at the bottom of the top half, so no way to see them.
But try twisting one direction, or the other, to see if that frees up the halves.
The rivet in mine could be the result of someone breaking the tabs by forcing the halves apart

[Jon Weywadt]

Well I took the opportunity to replace my air filter. Turns out it is the same as on a Citroen ZX 1.6i from 03/91-
Paid 80 DKK at krogslund autoparts.

After I removed the rivet I mentioned above, I was able to twist the bottom half of the housing. There are NO tabs that lock it in place. There must be a ridge and a grove that hold the parts together, because I could twist it back and forth, but was unable to pull them apart. I was able to open a 1/8" gap on one side, but I did not have anything to insert that would stay in place and help me pry the other side free. Eventually I stopped, because I was marring the plastic and I don't have a dust problem. I am now convinced that the two halves snap together and that it requires enough force and something to leverage in the gap in order to take it apart.

With so much trouble I would just wash out any dust with the parts assembled and use a wet-cacuum to get the water out of the bottom.

[RazorbackNOR]

Seems like the main power wire on my car has seen is's better days.... Would almost also say it seems like the plastic has melted into the copper....

Does anybody know if this one runs all the way back to the starter all alone by it self(ref wirring diagram) and is easy to replace, and has anybody enough math skills to calculate proper size for this wire? 50amp battery, but the altornator I believe is connected to this wire, and it delivers a current of....? amps....?

[RazorbackNOR]

Hmm, no rivet inplace here, but seems like it could be some kind of plastic plug of some kind....
---

If you see markings that indicate a plastic plug, try pushing it in with a parallel punch tool.
Once the filter halves are apart you can push the plug out and reinsert it when assembling.

It is also possible that there are tabs, similar to those holding the top in place, so that you have to twist the bottom half a little bit to get them to disengage. Problem is that they would be hidden under the plate that sits at the bottom of the top half, so no way to see them.
But try twisting one direction, or the other, to see if that frees up the halves.
The rivet in mine could be the result of someone breaking the tabs by forcing the halves apart

Didn't seem to be able to twist them apart.

Here are the pictures of my filter. The grooves in the plastic "thing" was my doing, tried to depress it with a Torx-bit...

[RazorbackNOR]

Seems like the main power wire on my car has seen is's better days.... Would almost also say it seems like the plastic has melted into the copper....

Does anybody know if this one runs all the way back to the starter all alone by it self(ref wirring diagram) and is easy to replace, and has anybody enough math skills to calculate proper size for this wire? 50amp battery, but the altornator I believe is connected to this wire, and it delivers a current of....? amps....?

Okay, so I did it my self, went for a gauge 4 wire, which equals a 35mm². Running from the battery to the starter. As i finally got the car jacked up, this was now feasible. Yes, I know it is a bit "bling bling", but the old battery connector was closed to being mashed to pieces, so I figured "why not".

And oh, I thought there was a little fuse on the small power cable, proved to be just a simple connector, but then I had allready mounted the new fuse, a little extra security can't be the worst thing one could have, right...?