Worklog of my car

[RazorbackNOR]

Thanks Oetker, We will try a simpler solution here first, using a drilled stainless steel bolt and two locknuts. If it doesn't work, I'll keep your offer in mind 

[Jon Weywadt]

Hi Razorback.
Remember that the fitting must be able to rotate in the hole in the arm. Otherwise the wire will bend back and forth until it breaks.

[RazorbackNOR]

Already taken care of Jon 

That's why we are using locknuts, since we then can the nut to stay, while still having enough room to swivle in. You can almost see the clearance between the nut nearest the head and the nut.

[RazorbackNOR]

While still waiting to get the transfer-bar sandblasted, and getting new holders for it, I decided to "take the big step"....

Now is the time for overhauling the brakes....
I've gotten hold of Roys VERY use "Brake booklet"(thanks Roy)

Started on the front, got the caliper off the bolts, released the brake line, and drained of the fluid.
Got stuck a bit, until I firgured it was just a matter of pushing the pads to the center, then out.

Next was the "butterfly" clips(think that's what their called), and then the whole assembly could be slided apart.

Man, this thing is mucky and dirty..... gone need some serious elbowgrease and more to get this back into shape....

One question thou.... All of the gliding surfaces between the holder and the caliper, should they be sanded and polished to a mirror finish to ease the sliding between them...?
Nevermind... Just figured that the parts aren't moving here, the just "rest"on the aluminium wedges, which come new in the kit anyway.

Pictures wil come soon.

[Oetker]

I suggest you make them look like this.


I placed a new mounting-kit.

If the pistons in the calipers are rusted replace them.

Also brake-hoses and brake-lines are a point to control.




It is 30 years old, so I think it is best to replace and overhaul the complete system.

[RazorbackNOR]

I suggest you make them look like this. Have plans on doing that, We have a good sandblaster at work, and I'm a skilled blaster. Also, at Biletema I found that they had a nice selection of caliper paints. Bought a can of gold and silver, and will try to see if I can find a color that could match the color of the car.



I placed a new mounting-kit. Guess I'll be ordering one too. The "sliders on mine are heavily baked in black, hard crust...

If the pistons in the calipers are rusted replace them. Haven't seen them yet, would guess they would still be good, since there is no leaking of fluid.
Also brake-hoses and brake-lines are a point to control. Lines were replaced some years ago, but not a too good a job, so I'm considering replacing some/all of them. New hoses was included with the car, so will replace when reassemling.



It is 30 years old, so I think it is best to replace and overhaul the complete system. My thoughts also. My brakemaster, clutchmaster, and brakeservo have some serious surfacerust, probably some spilling when changing braketubes. so I'll try to get these blasted and coated in the matching caliperpaint.

[Oetker]

My pistons did't leak fluid, and front brakes did work OK, but after seeing the pistons
I desided to replace them with the seals.
Rust on the pistons will damage the seals and I think it was only a matter of time for them to start leaking.

[RazorbackNOR]

So, here then is the first look at the front brakes.....





Seems like the dirt is rather baked in... some rust also present. This is after a wash in the parts washer with mineral spirits.
Oetker, would the soda boiling disolve more of this?

Next up is the piston, a bit of rust on top, not unexpected, but looks decent enough further down the cylinder as far as I can see. Somehow the piston feels rather stuck now....

Any ideas on how to get it out without ruining it.....?





The inside of the seal was filled with some black, sticky residue....cleaned it, and the seal seems ass good as ned. not brittle, craked and still soft.

[Oetker]

To get the piston out put air-pressure on the brake-line inlet.
Look out!!!!!!, it will come out like a rocket.
Think this pistons are stuck because of rust .

First de-rust as much as possible, then boil it before painting or protection stuff.

[RazorbackNOR]

Will try with some air pressure.... Really hope it's not rusted.... Have allready put down a list of parts from Simon for 650 Euros. And these pistons aren't cheap either....
On top of the fact that I'm gone be using around 2000 Euros on a new pistol this summer too....

Will have a go on the calipers with a wire brush, how strong solution of water/soda did you use Oetker?

[Oetker]

First de-rust as much as possible, I boiled it with 2 hands of soda.
The soda loosen the fat and the boiling makes it fluid and floating.
Poor the water out.
Put fosfor-acid on the calipers (best to first make them wet) and leave them for 24 hours.
It makes the rest of the rust Fe2o4 (magnetiet) and is a nice protection layer.
Then clean with lots of water and a brush and let it dry for a day or 2
Ready for painting.

[JL]

If the pistons are really corroded in, use a grease gun to force grease into the calliper, it is much safer than having a piston flying loose around the workshop; if you remove the nozzle on the end of the gun the thread should be the same as the brake pipe inlet thread on the calliper - I have used this method successfully in the past.

To remove rust I used electrolysis on my Murena parts, it works really well; if you Google "rust removal by electrolysis" you will find many articles and I would thoroughly recommend the method.

Good Luck
John

[RazorbackNOR]

With our trusted and free sandblaster at work, and my experience as a blaster, I probably will stick to this method.

Is there anywhere (besides piston cylinder and any threaded holes) that I should be aware of and not sandblast?

[RazorbackNOR]

Decided to try to avoid these areas since the alu wedges will be places here.

[RazorbackNOR]

Now having the right piston out( had to use the greasegun...) it doesn't look too bad. a bit of rust on the surface where it meets the pad, but other then that it still looks untouched.
Guess I don't need need pistons on the front if the other side looks as good.