Electrical Instrument problem !!

[roa]

You can check the 5v regulator yourself -See picture:

Pin 19 = Input. -Should be approx 12V
Pin 12 = Output -should be 5v
(I've marked the pin numbering in the picture)

This chip is a standard regulator, typenumber TLE4269.

A warning: static electricity kills electronics. Do not wear fleece or wool  when fiddling on circuit boards....
Discharge yourself by touching a groud connection(chassis metal)

Fingers crossed.

Roger

[RafnaTyr]

Thanks Roa,

That was a great help, I'm amazed how much you guys seems to know about these cars!

Thanks everyone for all helpful information, and also the warning about not putting in a used one, a question regarding that, what is PLID?

I think I'll try to repair myself now (with Roa's great info) and if that doesnt work I'll look into BBA Reman

/Eje

[renaultbiler]

PLIP = the Remote key to unlock doors (and immo on early Renaults)

[RafnaTyr]

Hi,

Well now I've checked the power, and I have 5 volts (6,19 actually) on pin 12 and 12 volts (13,12) on pin 19.
I also (of course) have 12 volts on pins 2 on the blue connector, so I've no iidea where to continue to search for this problem... any idea?

I had thought this where to be easy solved when I bought this car, thought I made a good deal, but now I see why they sold it so cheap...

Any help is aprriciated.

/Eje

[roa]

Seems to me that your regulator is faulty. 6,19 volts is way too much. Should be spot on 5v.
Motorola states the following for the main microprocessor:

..."Maximum Supply Voltage VDD –0.3 to +6.0 V"
..."Maximum ratings are the extreme limits to which the microcontroller unit (MCU) can be exposed without
permanently damaging it."....

and also:  "This device is not guaranteed to operate properly at the maximum ratings."

First double check your measurements.
If the 6,19v persists -get a new regulator and pray that the microprocessor has survived!!
If you want to test things first, remove the regulator(soldering or very fine cutting pliers required) and connect a 5v powersupply in its place(pin 12). 5v power can be obtained, from a spare PC-power, a cellphone charger or similar. The best thing is a dedicated laboratory powersupply.
Remember to measure the voltage before applying it to your display. Connect  your powersupply ground   locally at the display(connector or cable is ok), not to some random chassisconnection!

/roa

[RafnaTyr]

Hi,

I do have another question regarding this problem, I mentioned that the people I bought the car from stated that the problem seemed to evolve around the stearing wheel. Well I think I've checked everything there, but I found one thing that I have a qustion about. Around the key cylinder there is a magnietc ring and outside of that there is a spool (copper wire) that leads to a very small curcit board just behind the key on the stearing wheel pole. That magnetic ring is broken in three pieces, they are all in place, but broken, can that cause this problem. Otherwice I'll give up now and send this in to BBA Reman, I've tried to get a hold of the regulator but it's nowhere to be found. Siemens where the manufacturers, they sold it to Infineon and now it's out of produktion since it consisted of led. According to EU rules, only military and hospital equipment are allowed to have led in the circuits. So I can't find anywhere to by it...

But, before I send this in to BBA I'm curious about if the magnetic ring, or the little curcuit board I mentioned can have anything to do with my problem?

b.t.w, a repair wasn't to expencive, £150 as the most, and that is regardless if it's even the main processor. The only problem is that they don't re-programme the PLID.

/Eje

[renaultbiler]

The ring is the immobiliser antenna ring - if it brakes you wont be able to start the car and the red blinking immo-led on the instrument panel will flash rapidly instead of going out.

[RafnaTyr]

Okay, well I can start the car so it's not that then...

Do you know if there is anything else around the stearing wheel that could cause this problem, or is my guess right that they "lied" and it has nothing to do with the stearing wheel? any guess?

[renaultbiler]

It would come as a surprice to me if something around the steering wheel would solve/cause this. I think you are up for a new instrument (new or possible rehab). At least that would exclude instrument, but my guess is thats infact the problem.
It could be that emperature caused the instrument to flicker in the early stages of its illness - thats a typical symptom.

[RafnaTyr]

Hi all,

I have just two small questions now, before sending the unit in for repair; first of all, they wanted me to send in not only the curcuit board but also the BCU (Body Control Unit) so where is that one located???

Question tw, what does that do and can that be the reason for my problems with the instrument?

Probably simple questions, but I'm a bit novice with this car and have not found any repair handbooks to this car, seems like Heynes have not made any repair book for this model...

Thanks again everyone, you've been most helpful, it's very appriciated!

/Eje

[renaultbiler]

The body control unit is the BII box, the black box found in the floor on passenger side. The BII and instrument panel are in very close relationship so thats probably why they want to have it in for testing the instrument.

[RafnaTyr]

Hi Everyone!

Well I can inform you all that I went with the tip about BBA-Reman and they did a great job!!!
It was only 150£ + shipping cost, a total of 180£ that is a "set" price, no matter what the problem is it's the same price.
So I can defenetly recommend them to anyone having a electronic/electrical problem. Also, they where fast, took only 11 days from that I sent them the unit until I had i installed again

One question I have now is only about a control lamp. It's a red lamp that flicks every second when the car is stopped and turned off, also, the same thing even when the key is removed. Strange though is that it turns off when I start the car? anyone have any idea???
I have to go to the garage and replace the engine belt, it's run for 13 000 km (59000 miles) can it be that?

[Martin Tyas]

Pleased to hear that you got the dash panel fixed and that BBA-Reman did a good job for you.

The red light is the engine immobiliser system warning light and it should function this way.
The keys are coded to the vehicle so within a few seconds of removing the key from the ignition the immobiliser is armed and the warning light flashes. Only a correctly coded key can be used to start the vehicle so as soon as the key is inserted in the ignition and the code recognised then the tell-light illuminates constantly for a few seconds and then goes out. If the light continues to flash after the engine is started then it indicates there is a problem with the system.

You may recall earlier in this thread that the issue of the keys and the immobiliser was raised regarding the problems associated with trying to use components salvaged from another vehicle in that your existing keys would not be correctly coded to the components from another car.

Martin