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Author Topic: Towbar Electrics 2000 2.2dt  (Read 6404 times)
colin4255
Sr. Member
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Posts: 119



« Reply #15 on: June 23, 2010, 11:42:54 pm »

Thanks chewbacca. Despite all the advice I have been given, I have yet to fit my towbar electrics. I too, would welcome a pictorial guide on how to fit a bypass relay before I fit mine. Where did you buy one for £16?

Trolkar - I am guessing if you  have fitted electrics for the towbar  with no relay and are having problems, it means you have screwed up the electrics now - it will most likely be the BIII unit that has been damaged.

My Renault dealer told me categorically, NOT to even try fitting towbar electrics without a proper bypass relay or it could cost me a fortune to repair the damage I would do to other parts of the electrical system.
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chewbacca
Jr. Member
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Posts: 33


« Reply #16 on: June 30, 2010, 11:27:38 pm »

Hi Colin

I purchased the relay from towequipe . I'm on holidays for a fortnight from this weekend,when I come back I'll fit the relay and post the information,with pictures on here.
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chewbacca
Jr. Member
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Posts: 33


« Reply #17 on: July 16, 2010, 05:18:01 pm »

Back from the holidays so time to fit the relay.I'll try and explain as best I can but I've taken some photos which are sometimes better.
It's not unlike fitting to an old style motor by connecting to the rear of the clusters, but instead connect the relay in between.Start by identifying the cables at the clusters to be connected to the relay.On my motor  the o/s flasher is white pin 1,the o/s tail lamp is blue pin 3,and the brake lamp is grey pin 2.The reverse lamp is also grey on pin5, I'm not using the reverse or fog light so I wasn't too concerned about them,but if you want to use them just add them in.The pin numbers are stamped into the plastic plugs.
On the n/s the flasher is grey pin6,and the n/s tail lamp is grey pin 2.The cables to the flasher ARE slightly smaller which tends to make me think that the assumption about them being fed from the B11 unit are correct.
I roughed it in using scotch loks,on the o/s leave about 12" before you join into the loom or you'll find it will foul the seatbelt tensioners,closer to the plug on the n/s.
You require to run a 2 core cable between the o/s and the n/s clusters,I located the relay in the o/s,in the compartment for the car jack.You also require a cable to feed the relay taken from the battery,so you need to run a cable from front to back,technically you only need a single cable to provide a + from the battery,the - being a good chassis grounding,but as youre going to the bother of running a cable from front to back you may aswell run a twin and get the - from the battery also,then no dodgey earths.
I didnt't have time to run one in permanently today but run a cable temporarily to test it out.It needs to be the correct rating(28/0.3) and fused I think at 15a,I'm using one of the line blade fuse holders.
I tested it ,it works ok ,so I've removed the scotch loks and soldered the wires in permanently and heat shrinked them in.Disconnect the battery before you start and double check youre connections before you power up.
pic 1 12N cable terminated into r/h side of the relay and the cables going from the l/h side of the relay to the clusters.The yellow and black cables are extended to the n/s cluster using the 2 core mentioned earlier.
pic 2 scotch loks at the n/s cluster.
pic 3+4 scotch loks at the o/s cluster.
pic 6+7+8 cables soldered and heat shrinked.
The + cable from the battery terminates into the 12v terminal in the relay.The - cable from the battery terminates with the other 2 white cables,one from the relay and one from the 12n cable,(common earth),instead of using the chassis as an earth.
« Last Edit: July 16, 2010, 05:31:35 pm by chewbacca » Logged
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