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Author Topic: Steering rack refurbishment  (Read 10547 times)
Oetker
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Posts: 1048



« Reply #15 on: July 30, 2010, 07:31:39 pm »

A job well done Anders.
It is indeed difficult to line the rack, if you got mixed up with the distance plates.
It is described in the manual, but you need the equipment to do it.
Not very much people know how to correctly adjust all in en outs concerning lining and adjusting the frontpart of the car, and if you find someone who knows, they wan't help you.
It is probably difficult.
Trackrods and ends from Simca 1100 do fit, but there are some funny remarks.
Some have righthand, but there are also lefthand threats on the trackrod ends.
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I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different.
Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
Oetker
YaBB God
*****
Posts: 1048



« Reply #16 on: July 31, 2010, 10:04:44 pm »

Some additional info for people who gonna do this job.
It is best not to to hit the bolts to hard.
The allu. is very thin and will break easy.
This is a picture of a rack from a fellow member.

That is the reason I was very carefull with drilling the rusted bolts out.
It took almost a day to do that, because the original bolts are very hard, in fact to hard.
There is a more easy way to adjust the steering wheel after repair.
Loosen the bolt that adjust the slider to the worm.
You can pull the slider down and the worm is free to get in position. (Edit.
Not true for all racks.)

Adjusting this bolt goes best as Anders described, and forget the manual about that point.
Most steering racks on other cars  have a tension around 7 nm on this bolt.
This is a safety for a collision that the worm come free by hard impact, so you don't break a thumb or worse.
The Murena however this tension isn't right.
Best is to adjust as Anders described.
« Last Edit: March 28, 2011, 07:51:19 am by Oetker » Logged

I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different.
Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
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