Watch out for that blower switch, it could fry your car.

[Jon Weywadt]

I finished the work on my blower. Thanks for the tips in this topic  they were very useful.

After some research I found that the blower of Suzuki Swift (up to 2003) is very similar. As it is very common car in Hungary I bought a motor with the external resistors whiches are installed in the airflow in the Suzuki.

Now both are installed to the Murena's blower housing. I had to fix the original rotor to the shaft of the new motor and cut holes for air intake as others did.
After small modifications I could use the original wiring. As it uses external resistors there is no need of any contol module. It works perfectly, but the real test will come next summer...

Very nice job. 
I have to redo mine again, since the plastic broke and the motor fell and dragged the blower wheel inside the housing. A temporary fix with metal reinforcement should hold until I can come up with a better replacement.

[klumzer]

Which part was broken?

The new motor is a bit heavier than the original, because it has a metal frame. It was quite difficult to cut the holes for air intake.
I hope the original plastic housing will bear the load... I used M4 rivnuts for fixing, it can be seen in the photos at the inner side.

[Jon Weywadt]

Which part was broken?

The new motor is a bit heavier than the original, because it has a metal frame. It was quite difficult to cut the holes for air intake.
I hope the original plastic housing will bear the load... I used M4 rivnuts for fixing, it can be seen in the photos at the inner side.

It was precisely the original plastic housing that could not carry the load. Since the motor is on the bottom, when installed, the weight cracked the plastic from one of the screw mounts and the motor fell resulting in the blower wheel scraping on the housing and the motor drawing excessive current. The smell of burnt plastic and smoke from the switch, was a clear sign that something had gone wrong. 
I made two "C" brackets of aluminum and placed them around the housing and a screw mount on opposite sides. That should hold it, but not pretty. I am still looking for a better replacement. Perhaps with a new housing.
I will post a photo when I get down to the car. It is at Philbert's place where I have been working on the brakes.

[TimS]

I need to look at the blower on my car as it it sounds like the bearing is failing, loud squealing at 1, 2 or 3.

But I don't know where to access the fan. How do I get to the fan housing?

[klumzer]

You only have to remove a hatch under the bonnet. It is fixed by some screws. Then you can find the blower which is mounted by two bolts. Head of the bolts can be seen at the right side in front of the windscreen.
The  air outlet of the blower is connected to the car by a thin plastic gaiter. Be careful, do not damage it.

[TimS]

Thanks Klumzer. That's my work for the weekend!

[suffolkpete]

The hatch is just to the left and to the rear of the washer bottle in the first photo.  As originally built it would have been fixed by pop rivets, but some owners may have replaced them with screws.  Your bearings are probably just dry after years of disuse.  If you strip the motor down, clean it thoroughly and give the bushes a good soaking in oil that should do the trick.  You need to look after those motors, they seem to burn out very easily and it is quite hard to find replacements.

[Oetker]

I saw I didn't post the way to make a original switch working with the module.
If made a print with 3 variable resistors to pre-adjust speeds.



Now you can use the original switch.

see

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zV-EovsmH8&feature=youtu.be

[maxderoswell]

You can see the result here:

http://www.dailymotion.com/swf/video/xq36ko

Some pictures:







For wiring, I use wire (10;110) to power module RC/herman and in output (55;56) to join Hyundai motor wire.

http://www.dailymotion.com/swf/video/xw7348

Herman thank you very very very ........... much.

Mathieu

[TimS]

Looks like the original motors are available...I saw this on Matramagics site.

http://www.matramagic.co.uk/store/#!/~/product/category=165170&id=370823

Could be good news for me as mine is past it's best.

[Morten Blom]

Instead of building anything by your self, there is an other solution..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HQ-PWM-DC-Voltage-Motor-Speed-Regulator-12-24VDC-400W-10A-HLDR10A400-/350500388914?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item519b738032
With this regulator you only have to find the "high speed" wire on the motor..
Its very easy and work good! I have one on my Murena.. 

[Oetker]

It's about the same as we are using.

The diagram is for using ity with the original switch so you don't see it from the outside.

[TimS]

I am fitting my new blower fan whch arrived today.

Can someone tell me what the settings are on the fan knob ie: is 1 - Low, 2,  - medium, 3 - High? Or is 1 High?

I connected and tested the new motor and 1 seems to be high, which seems backwards to me. As my old one didnt work properly I have nothing to compare this to.

I have fitted a knew Fan switch too from CBS but it is identical to the old one. Is this a Matra thing or do I need to alter the connections?

[Oetker]

The diagram is 4 posts back with picture of the switch and how it connects seen from the back of the switch.

[suffolkpete]

Position 1 is the lowest and three the highest.  The motor should be connected to terminals 1, 3,4 & 5.  Terminal two is live on all three settings and is probably intended for an indicator lamp although this is not used on the Matra.