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Author Topic: Dash Mainly Dead, No interior lights, No CL...  (Read 17507 times)
BrianM
Sr. Member
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Posts: 321


« Reply #15 on: April 08, 2012, 11:18:30 am »

I set the b11 to the correct km again but this time I programmed the 908 with a file from another dash with slightly higher miles rather than setting it to zero. This time the speed did not flash, the recorded distance was displayed in kms until I entered the b11. not quite sure what I did but it has returned the dash to mls. this time it displays the correct mls I entered. It is 10k higher than I wanted but, what the hay! Closer than the 600k it had before.
I have had to do this because this dci had a blown ecu due to trapped injector wires. Guess I could have chosen to immo off the new ecu. But no, I wanted to keep the immo so had to replace the b11. Of course the 70k that the breakers yard said that was on the clock turned out to be 270k. The feckers have caused me a shead load of unnecessary work. At least I can now do my v6 that has had a series of dash's. It was bought with a blown dash at 70k first replacement had 130k, it is now showing the same 270k as I put it in the dci, can't remember why!
I think the dash in the dci is going to need replacing as the remote fob has never worked. It is programmed with two fobs but I only have the one so it won't resync. Any ideas where the code is in the dash? Can a chip be swapped out i'm wondering?
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mawds
Newbie
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Posts: 17



« Reply #16 on: April 21, 2012, 12:28:29 am »

Glad to hear the oven worked for you Smiley The PCB laminate is FR4 and is porus so will also hold moisture if your not careful. The newer ROHS compliant (lead free and all that) fr4 is more so apparently. At times we have had boards blister when they go through the reflow oven which can pop via holes and render the board scrap Sad

Most devices are designed to work in the 0-70'C range commercially, -40 to +85'C for automotive I think so the whole board should withstand an oven at this temp OK, at 120 I think you need to start checking the plastics Smiley

If 85 is doesn't work for the whole board, then take the chip off and bake at the higher temp.

Sounds like you might have some runners now then Brian! Smiley good luck.
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mawds
Newbie
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Posts: 17



« Reply #17 on: April 21, 2012, 01:06:50 am »

record pics hopefully in order.
1) peel carpet back and remove 3 to pnuts and 3 bottom bolts and remove metal plate - time about 10 mins.

2)Remove all the plugs, use the handles to unlatch so you don't break them, yes I broke some but now you know Smiley

3)Press out side tabs with large flat blade screwdriver

4)use a strip of material or small screwdriver to unlatch the corners of the connector blocks

5) seperate

6) The red wire attached to the back of the board depicts where you can supply the 12V for bench tests. This supplies the onboard regulators for 5V etc. DO NOT POWER UP IF YOU ARE UNSURE AS YOU WILL BLOW THE BOARD COMPLETELY.

7) Bake as required, however I prever a little salt and vinegar with my chips Smiley

8 ) mask of all connectors and holes in the side of the connectors.

9) Lacquer both sides with non conductive pcb lacquer. Allow to dry and re-coat. Do this in 20'C or more otherwise the Lacquer tends to go like orange peel.

10) retrace your earlier steps to reassemble having removed the masking tape!
« Last Edit: April 21, 2012, 01:13:31 am by mawds » Logged
mawds
Newbie
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Posts: 17



« Reply #18 on: April 21, 2012, 01:10:09 am »

SEMICONDUCTORS ARE STATIC SENSITIVE. DO NOT WORK ON PLASTIC OR WEAR MAN MADE FABRICS WHEN HANDLING BOARDS OR CHIPS. USE WOODEN RUBBER OR METAL SURFACES (not metal if you power it up though!)

hope this helps. Email me if you need anything as I may not be back for some time Smiley

« Last Edit: April 21, 2012, 01:17:30 am by mawds » Logged
BrianM
Sr. Member
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Posts: 321


« Reply #19 on: January 16, 2013, 10:43:01 pm »

I don't know how many people this thread has helped, but i see it has been read over 1000 times already. Shame we dont get £1 for each time eh!  Cry
Anyway, I just bought an espace with this problem. With the becm still installed in the car I cut a slot in its cover on the right side. Be careful if you do this as the circuit board is just under it. I used a hot air gun to heat the board up, not too close as didnt want to melt any solder. I did this with the ign. on & within 15 seconds the dash came alive a few seconds later the interior lights came on & the central locking worked.
Should have seen the reaction from the guy I bought it from  Shocked

I am now baking the board as just because next morning i had to do the same again to get it going.
Looks like I need to do the mileage as it does not correspond to the recent mot. I may do a tutorial is it is of interest.

If this thread helps you then please leave us a message so we know
Feel  free to ask any questions.
Cheers.
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