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Author Topic: Dash Mainly Dead, No interior lights, No CL...  (Read 17251 times)
mawds
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« on: February 10, 2012, 02:59:48 pm »

Hi

The wife picked me up last night and the car was running fine. She dropped me off somewhere and waited for me with the engine off. When I came back out it wouldn't start and eventually drained the battery.

No radio, no dash - only the dipped light levelling fault lamp is on, no interior lights, no central locking.

The boot light works ok, the passenger window works OK ( I didn't try the others) The headlights and tail lights come on OK. The engine cranks but does not fire.

Had to get the recovery out to take it to the garage, the recovery guy tried fuses, jump starting but nothing.

Anyone come across anything similar? I have read some posts similar but not the same.

She did say that she had the radio on and the fans on as the kids were in the car, but with the engine off. Then the radio and the lights just went off. I was only away for about 10 minutes.

thx
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yellowt5r
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« Reply #1 on: February 10, 2012, 07:15:00 pm »

have you pushed the button in the engine area if you have one its located on the left hand side near the air flow pipe feed to air filter. has a rubber top (30mm approx) and 2 cables out the bottom. I have this with mine just turns over sometimes starts if not i push that and away i go. mine is a DCI 2.2 2001. not sure if you have this though but worth a go if you do.
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BrianM
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« Reply #2 on: February 16, 2012, 07:55:52 pm »

Depends on what model car you have but it sounds like the processor in the body controller is fooked. You could try & warm it up & see if it comes back to life. They dont like the cold weather. Sounds like you have no canbus connection to the dash & ecu, if it were the dash the car would start. The body controller handshakes with the engine ecu for the immo to work. You cant just replace the body controller i'm afraid. I PM'd you.

Here is one out of its box so you know where it is.
« Last Edit: February 16, 2012, 08:37:32 pm by BrianM » Logged
mawds
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Posts: 17



« Reply #3 on: February 16, 2012, 11:29:14 pm »

thx guys, i'll have a look for the button. i'll call you Brian.
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mawds
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« Reply #4 on: February 17, 2012, 12:34:05 am »

Thanks for the chat Brian, very much appreciated. i'll update here as I go! messaged a breaker on ebay anyway just incase. will strip it out first and check what we discussed.
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mawds
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« Reply #5 on: February 17, 2012, 12:56:51 am »

Brian

http://www.matrasport.dk/Cars/Espace/vault/JE/IMMOBILISER/RENAULT_IMMO_KEY_MEMENTO.pdf

Also note that on the Espace JE with BII unit, the RF reciever for the PLIP is located in the digital instrument cluster. On
these vehicles the mileage is retained in BOTH the instrument cluster AND the BII unit.
DO NOT TEST ONE OF THESE PARTS FROM ANOTHER VEHICLE AS THE HIGHER MILEAGE WILL BE COPIED
TO BOTH VEHICLES AND THIS CANNOT BE REVERSED.
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BrianM
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« Reply #6 on: February 17, 2012, 03:31:28 pm »

Yes I have this document, if you have to replace the b11 then get the chassis no. of the car it comes from if you want to try to resync your second key. I will see if I can get you the pin for it. also ask what the miles are on the dash. If above yours then you will need to reset the 908 in the b11 so your car does not display the higher miles. If you need to do this then it may be worth just replacing the 908 in yours anyway.
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mawds
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« Reply #7 on: March 03, 2012, 12:58:57 am »

Hi, sorry for the late reply, I have been hellishly busy the last few weeks as my business partner was away. Yes it was damp in the footwell. No signs of corrosion to bodywork, earths or connectors to the fuses, in any of the connectors surrounding nor connecting to the body controller.

There was a drop of water on the metal plate holding it all in and the the carpet was a bit damp. I took the controller into work and opened up the box and removed the board. I will post some pics and how to do this as it's a bit awkward. There was signs of some damp having been there as the board had a small patch of white around the power end of the board.

I hooked it up to a supply (took 10 mins to figure the input supply pins as there is a 5V and 3V regulator on board not driven by the main 12V spade Sad once powered up I put the scope on it and the micro oscillator was running OK and there were a few signals going on, not as many as I thought there might be but without a schematic difficult to tell what should be happening. I inspected it under the microscope and couldnt find any more corrosion, damp or bad joints. I put it in front of a fan heater for 5 minutes to ensure it was dry and put it back into the box. I wasn't holding much hope at this point. Installed back into the car and turned the ignition on. THE DASH LIT UP!! THE CAR STARTED!! WOW

So I decided to remove it all again and dismantle the board back out. Heated it a bit more then masked off all the connectors and spade terminals. Then I lacquered the board front and back. Once dry I gave it a second coat. Once dry I then reassembled it, installed it checked it was still working and put everything back.

So far it has been great. Seem to have gained an extra 1 mpg Smiley and the auto box is changing smooth (it was going into gear with bumps and jumps sporadically before hand). Not done a long run to see if the gearbox going into limp mode has been fixed but fingers crossed!

I have an electonics company manufacturing control systems and when we buy IC's from an unknown source that may have been opened we bake them for 48 hours at about 120'C , this is dependant on device thickness and there are recommended JEDEC standards for this. I would be interested to see if any controllers can be resurrected by an extended bake to drive out any moisture.


If so ensure you lacquer them with PCB lacquer.

Thanks for the help guys and the chat Brian.
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #8 on: March 03, 2012, 08:55:02 am »

Hooray, good to hear you're back on the road. Interesting story!

I've had a few problems on my V6 with gear change problems: Always electrical. Like this (the autobox computer, located in front of the battery):



... and this connector on top of the gearbox (remove the air filter box to get access):



Both connectors are vertically mounted so that if any water or moisture creeps in, it stays there - and causes corrosion. Stupid design, but simple to fix!

I've never had any problems with the BII, though (knock! knock!)

/Anders
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'82 Murena 2.2 prep 142
'01 Grand Espace 24v
'08 Smart Fortwo 0,8 cdi
BrianM
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« Reply #9 on: March 04, 2012, 08:11:26 pm »

Nice to hear you got it sorted Smiley
The DCI i'm fixing up has your exact same fault if the battery is not fully charged!
I have several dash's & body controllers here all with the 908 mcu fault. Seeing your comments I think I will take the chips off & bake them in the oven for a few hours. Farnell want £18+ for the mcu, not much really but being a skin flint it has got to be worth a go!
Yes the b11 is tricky to get the board out, I cut up a few computer expansion slot blanks to slot in either side of each connector, worked a treat.

These auto box's are supposed to be good for 250k miles (according to my local autobox shop) good enough for Mercedes to put them in the minibus. However one of my Espaces is up the drive waiting for a replacement box to go in it after only 100k mls, it has blown all the oil out of it once it got hot! They are like hens teeth to find on the second hand market at a good price. Got one now, just have to find time to do it.
Three Espaces in my drive, only one works Sad

Cheers
Brian
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BrianM
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Posts: 321


« Reply #10 on: March 21, 2012, 08:47:20 pm »

Just an update. I put the dci body controller in the oven for a few hours on the minimum setting (not in its plastic case). This has cured the fault I caused when resetting the milage, I guess there was some moisture in there somewhere. I havn't lacured it & it has been fine in the car now for a week.
Now I need to find out what went wrong with the dash, it now shows kms & the speed is flashing at me!
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renaultbiler
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« Reply #11 on: March 22, 2012, 08:07:41 pm »

Now I need to find out what went wrong with the dash, it now shows kms & the speed is flashing at me!

This is because the BII and dash now needs to be re-joined to each other, find someone with a CLIP and enter BII configuration mode - check all parameters and save configuration. Blinking speedo digit should now be gone.

To change from km/h to miles, look in your owners handbook - you can manually change that by pushing the small black buttons on the dash at a specific combination (dont remember exactly how).
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1980 Alpine A-310 w/GTA 2.5 V6 Turbo
2000 Grand Espace V6 24v Initiale: http://www.renaultbiler.no/forum/viewtopic.php?id=2529
2000 Scenic RXi 2.0 16v IDE aut DP0: http://www.renaultbiler.no/forum/viewtopic.php?id=3751
1982 R20TX 2.2
Service Online: www.servicehefte.net/servdata/?cid=qqkX
BrianM
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« Reply #12 on: March 22, 2012, 11:31:30 pm »

Thanks Renaultbiler,
I guess I erased more than the recorded milage information. I did wonder what the other block of information was!
I do have a russian/chinese clip. It had stopped working so I need to do some work on it to get it fixed. When I do I will take a look. The kms is reported in the recorded kms & trip computer. When using the clock & stalk button with acc. on it only changes the speed, the recorded mileage stays the same only the speed reading changes to kms. This maybe changable with clip, I need to change the tyre size anyway so will look in clip at the dash options.
Cheers
Brian
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BrianM
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« Reply #13 on: April 06, 2012, 03:28:50 pm »

Have the Clip working again, I couldnt see anything much in dashboard to reset. Not sure what I did but now  it is back to miles & no flashing speed indicator. However it now says 610,000 mls  Shocked Shocked Shocked feck! Back to square one!
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renaultbiler
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« Reply #14 on: April 08, 2012, 08:36:33 am »

Most of the dash config comes from BII unit!
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1980 Alpine A-310 w/GTA 2.5 V6 Turbo
2000 Grand Espace V6 24v Initiale: http://www.renaultbiler.no/forum/viewtopic.php?id=2529
2000 Scenic RXi 2.0 16v IDE aut DP0: http://www.renaultbiler.no/forum/viewtopic.php?id=3751
1982 R20TX 2.2
Service Online: www.servicehefte.net/servdata/?cid=qqkX
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