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Author Topic: fuel pump removal? 2.2td JEOE.  (Read 3319 times)
P,G,Spaven
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Posts: 11


« on: April 21, 2013, 11:37:14 pm »

could anyone please advise me about how to safely take a fuel pump out so I can extract a faulty coded fuel solenoid valve?I would also appreciate some help in identifying the different relays inside the car and also under the bonnet.  Also ,Does anyone know of a good manual for this diesel 1998? Or are there any guides that I can just download for free?  Now that's the hard one lol.
Thanks       
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BrianM
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« Reply #1 on: April 22, 2013, 10:25:56 am »

Take a look in the vault, you should find what you need here:

http://www.matrasport.dk/Cars/Espace/vault/JE/

Best, Brian.
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P,G,Spaven
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« Reply #2 on: April 22, 2013, 11:54:45 am »

Cheers Brian, thankyou.
Is there any way of finding what I'm looking for in the vault by not having to open them all, if you get what I mean? Although the content of the pdf's is great, the menu isn't very helpful. I'm dyslexic which doesn't help much Sad
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BrianM
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« Reply #3 on: April 22, 2013, 12:32:00 pm »

I think yours is the gt9 engine, try http://www.matrasport.dk/Cars/Espace/vault/JE/3426A_G9T_SPECIAL_FEATURES.pdf to start with
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P,G,Spaven
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« Reply #4 on: April 22, 2013, 05:30:00 pm »

Thanks, I've been trolling through them all since this morning and didn't come across anything relevant really, then just as I checked for a reply from you, I suddenly realised that there was a reference to a document within the file I've been using which is N.T.2754A  the reference is to use document N.T.2717A which is diesels fitted with a Bosch pump! As I think I need to get this right as its the first time I've worked properly on a diesel, it probably would be a good idea for me to try to locate this doc? Any ideas as to how to find it?
I'm coming to realise just how much technical data proper mech's have to soak up to be able to do their jobs to a high standard! To be honest, its a little intimidating lol.  Respect Brian.   Peter.
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P,G,Spaven
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Posts: 11


« Reply #5 on: April 22, 2013, 05:34:41 pm »

Oh yes, I forgot..... this espace has no air-con,I can't actually see the engine ID plate as its behind the pump! sods law really lol.
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BrianM
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Posts: 321


« Reply #6 on: April 23, 2013, 12:16:41 am »

If you are going to remove the pump you will need to lock the cam & crank so they don't move. There is a locking kit but it is too expensive for one job, so you will need to do it another way.
What is the diagnosis as to why you are removing the pump?
I have looked in my version of 'renault dialogys' for the pdf you mention but cant find it. Dialogys is a 3cd set of manuals that covers all renault cars. Guess my version is too old.
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P,G,Spaven
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Posts: 11


« Reply #7 on: April 25, 2013, 11:32:37 am »

Thanks again Brian, I really hope your aware of just how greatfull I am of your help.
Background; served my time as electrician (not auto) changed my trade to a pipe welder but broke my back so now can't work or afford renault garage prices.
I bought this 1998 diesel espace 2.2td JEOE with an immobilizerproblem!  The immo light stays on constant when the ignition is turned, the engine turns over but doesn't start, the immo light returns to normal when the ignition's turned off.  The courtesy lights weren't working so,  because they are timed by the decoder I thought it wise to fix all the wiring problems first, this I did (standing water in both cable runs down each side of the vehicle causing every connection to be corroded)now everything works, central door locking button, courtesy lights/alarm, everything except the immobilizer! As the problem was intermittent,I thought it might be something fixable as the decoder box is bullet proof there must be some reason its finally stopped working altogether. Although I've got 12volts supplying the decoder,there is only 10.5volts on track A6 of the black 15way connector of the decoder!  I think this is the supply to the antenna ring?  I would introduce a 12volume supply into the antenna ring but I'm a bit unsure as the diagram says that A6 is the antenna ring/decoder unit coded line! I don't want to brake the components by doing something wrong.
I can't help thinking that this reduced voltage is the reason for the solenoid not activating, there must be a reason for this reduced voltage? It says that there's a control relay for the immobilizer and also one for the door closing/alarm information relay.I would dearly like to be able to locate this relay. Go fact I would love to be able to find and identity all the relays, passenger foot well and engine compartment.
I could make a tool up for locking off the cam/crank if I knew what the dimensions were and how to use it, to be honest with you, I've not looked into the special tools section yet and I think that document you spoke of in the vaults might give me a guide to using the tool.
if I can avoid taking the stop off, I will, but I think the only way forward is to remove the electronics me the coded solenoid. The immo light configuration (on solid when keys turned )leads me to believe (by using the fault finding ,customer complaints,chart 3 page 50 of N.T. 2754A) that either the decoder or the coded solenoid or its electronics are to blame,  the reduced voltage at the antenna ring  is throwing me a bit though.  The only way to check for a visual fault in the electronics of the solenoid is to remove the pump!
I should add that this decoder is one of the ones where a code CAN be entered via the CDLB with it being a 77.00.416.293.
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P,G,Spaven
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Posts: 11


« Reply #8 on: April 25, 2013, 11:57:06 am »

Bad spelling,
If I can avoid taking the pump off, I will. I would prefer the immobilizer to work but seen I haven't got am ossilliscope Cheesy or a diagnostic tool i.e the XR25 then I will have to take the pump off to check for visual faults of the coded valves electronics and also to check if the solenoid itself is actually working.  I could afford to get a compleat key set from the scrap yard but would still have to either use the pump/valve off the scrapped car or buy a new coded solenoid or get the code wiped from the valve using a XR25?all of which makes that option too dear.
Obviously if I can't rectify this problem then I will have to remove the coded valve but I want to avoid that really. Thanks again. Peter.
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BrianM
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Posts: 321


« Reply #9 on: April 25, 2013, 11:29:23 pm »

I would start with the remote. yours is infrared i think. Normally the immo light would go out once the ign was turned on. If it doesn't then I doubt it is the coded line.  I need to gen up on this. You need to check for poor earth in the loom of the ns footwell where the loom rises to go to the dash. Well known fault! See my pm & contact me on skype as getting around the immo shouldn't be public info. Even for these old cars.
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P,G,Spaven
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Posts: 11


« Reply #10 on: April 26, 2013, 08:59:18 pm »

Yes, I was getting a bit worried about the info. I read the thread about baking the B11 and had to laugh at the 610,000! Its only mileage Brian lol,  sucks I know but hey!  Its all the bloody car thieves  faults! They chop their hands off in some places.
Getting back to the corroded wires, there were a lot!  I still have to check the cable runs in the boot area. There was also a lot of bunching going on, also cable crushing at the fuse box shroud and both galv plates on the outside of each front foot well. I had to cut bigger apputures as they were that tight they were squashing the insulation on lots of wires!
Anyway, I'm not too good with mumutters so it might take me a day to set up skype!  Please be patient with me Smiley  I will PM you if that's ok? Thanks Brian.   Peter.
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BrianM
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Posts: 321


« Reply #11 on: April 26, 2013, 10:27:09 pm »

Yes, just as well yours doesn't have the body controller. What with all the damp & corrosion you appear to have. See your pm & go through how to get your code to turn the immo off. If this works when the fob does not work in the ign. switch then the fob is at fault.
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