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Author Topic: Drive shaft on Espace III 2.2 DCi  (Read 2872 times)
Valfrid
Jr. Member
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Posts: 39


« on: June 03, 2014, 12:25:12 am »

Just wondered (and being a little lazy here) what size is the hub nut on the Espace III 2,2 DCi? Also, how is the drive shaft fixed to the gearbox - is it the 2 pins - one inside the other type arrangement? reason I ask is that both outer and inner bellows are showing signs of extreme wear and the is a slight excessive vibration when cold so I thought get a remanufactured driveshaft and swap the lot...
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roy4matra
YaBB God
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Posts: 873



« Reply #1 on: June 03, 2014, 07:00:46 pm »

Just wondered (and being a little lazy here) what size is the hub nut on the Espace III 2,2 DCi? Also, how is the drive shaft fixed to the gearbox - is it the 2 pins - one inside the other type arrangement? reason I ask is that both outer and inner bellows are showing signs of extreme wear and the is a slight excessive vibration when cold so I thought get a remanufactured driveshaft and swap the lot...

On the early Espace I, they used two split roll pins one inside the other to lock the drive shaft to the output splined stubs, but this gave way to just one split roll pin even before the end of the Espace I or II so I doubt an Espace III would have the two pin arrangement.  In fact I'm sure the attachment of the drive shafts to the differential output is totally different because the Espace I and II are longitudinal arrangements whereas the Espace III is a transverse set up.  So I think there are three bolts holding the frame around the CV joint and gaiter and once these are off the CV joint comes out of the box along with the oil!

Roy
« Last Edit: June 03, 2014, 07:16:37 pm by roy4matra » Logged

WessexElectricNutter
Full Member
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Posts: 72


« Reply #2 on: June 04, 2014, 11:46:39 am »

Just wondered (and being a little lazy here) what size is the hub nut on the Espace III 2,2 DCi? Also, how is the drive shaft fixed to the gearbox - is it the 2 pins - one inside the other type arrangement? reason I ask is that both outer and inner bellows are showing signs of extreme wear and the is a slight excessive vibration when cold so I thought get a remanufactured driveshaft and swap the lot...

You'll need a 32mm socket to remove it if I recall correctly, its also held in with a lot of force and I speak from experience on that. Mine had to go to the garage in the end as I didn't have the tools to extract the hub nut which funny enough, isn't held in by much, but the torque required is something like 400 - 450 kN which is why it was eventually a b******d to undo.

Which end is the gaiter split? Mine split at the outer end, I.e. road wheel. If it is split at that end, you can just replace the Constant Velocity joint on the outer end instead and put a new boot on the inner end. Which works out a lot cheaper in the end.

Depending on your model, this is what I used for the drive shaft of mine: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RENAULT-ESPACE-2-2-DCi-DRIVESHAFT-CV-JOINT-BOOT-KIT-2000-06-/130851412386?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1e775a19a2
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Renault Espace III 2.2DCi Privilege (2001)
Renault Espace III 3.0 V6 Privilege (2001)
BrianM
Sr. Member
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Posts: 321


« Reply #3 on: June 04, 2014, 10:40:21 pm »

I got fed up with breaking socket bars to undo the hub not on a Range Rover so I welded a socket to a 1 mtr. length of scaff bar! I left it to cool down on the hub nut, when I came back after a cup of tea the nut was loose as it had expanded with the heat! So you could try putting a socket in the oven first if you have the same problem. Tool now used on the espace as it is the same size!
The os shaft has a bearing in the mounting to the engine & if that has gone then this could cause some vibration when driving. CV joints will knock on full lock when they are gone. To remove the shaft just remove the hub nut & the two hub-shock absorber nuts. With the bolts out & the steering on full lock you can get the shaft out of the hub. On the os the shafts bearing is held in with a 'c' plate by two 10mm bolts. With these removed you should be able to knock the shaft out. Get a replacement oil seal for the diff. Only take it out if you are going to do the bearing as you can withdraw the shaft by removing the inner joint boot clip as there is nothing holding the joint to the inner shaft. The outer cv is held to the shaft with a clip in the shaft. They just knock apart. If you buy locally from a motor factor you can see the quality of the rubber. Avoid buying a hard type of plastic boot as during the winter they don't flex very well & are so stiff that they pop off when the wheel turns full lock no matter how tight the clip is. Nice soft rubber is what you want if you can get it.
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31mev
Newbie
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Posts: 2


« Reply #4 on: June 07, 2014, 11:29:08 am »


Are you sure its the driveshaft causing the vibration? When I first started using my 2.1 diesel back in 2002 I had a vibration that was making the gearstick vibrate and after observing it for a few weeks I convinced myself that it was the driveshafts. I fitted two reconditioned shafts........no change. Further investigation revealed that one of the rear tyres was distorted.
Whilst I am on. I am surprised that no mention has been made of "stretch boots" I have fitted two now (having gone the conventional route in the past) very easy and super flexible.
see this       http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=so9gMxzJH4k      not sure of forum rules re posting links but hoping it is ok as its a tutorial. boots are available in most UK motor factors

Hub nuts.....very tight but be careful, I managed to strip the thread on one of the shafts mentioned above and had to replace it. I was using a 1000mm breaker bar to ensure it was tight, but it appears there is a limit
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