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suffolkpete
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« Reply #7 on: March 27, 2016, 03:01:36 pm » |
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Thanks for the help and advice.
I have checked all the gearbox links and they seem ok. It is possible to get a smooth change by double de-clutching so I guess it might be a worn synchro - is that likely?. If the synchro has started to wear should I expect rapid deterioration?
A some other issues have come to light:
Does the gearbox have synchromesh on 1st gear? - I can only engage it without balking when stationary. Yes, I wonder if, given your other troubles if you don't have a clutch problem. Does reverse engage without crunching?
Is there a way to fill the tank that doesn't involve a rush of petrol over your feet at the end? Yes, slowly 
It does seem to lock its front wheels more readily than other non abs cars I have had - hopefully this will improve as I put some miles into the (brand new) tyres.
Tom
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roy4matra
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« Reply #10 on: April 30, 2016, 10:18:22 am » |
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Thanks for the help and advice.
I have checked all the gearbox links and they seem ok. It is possible to get a smooth change by double de-clutching so I guess it might be a worn synchro - is that likely?. If the synchro has started to wear should I expect rapid deterioration?
If the change is better with double de-clutching then it does suggest the problem is synchros. But it may not be that they are worn, unless the car really had done lots of mileage (or been run with low oil). A modern gearbox with modern oil should be able to do something like 250,000 kms with no real problems, possibly more. A some other issues have come to light: Does the gearbox have synchromesh on 1st gear? - I can only engage it without balking when stationary.
This, combined with the above problem with fourth synchro, suggests one of the faulty boxes I'm afraid. The early 80/81 boxes had incorrect mismatched parts on assembly. Often it is no use just replacing the syncho rings which won't be worn out anyway, as new ones will only stop the problem for a short time until the top edges of the teeth are worn during bedding in. The gears need to be changed so the angles and clearances are correct. I am due to swap another box for this reason on another Murena 1.6 with very little mileage. Is there a way to fill the tank that doesn't involve a rush of petrol over your feet at the end?
Yes. The problem is that the filling pipe from cap to the tank is almost horizontal, so if you use the full trigger on the fuel pumps the delivery is far too fast. You have to limit the delivery speed by using say half the trigger movement. It does seem to lock its front wheels more readily than other non abs cars I have had - hopefully this will improve as I put some miles into the (brand new) tyres.
Tom
New tyres need bedding in (for about 200 miles at lowish speeds) to get rid of the mould releasing compound that is on all tyres. This releasing agent tends to make new tyres slippery until worn off. If they are still slippery or locking easily after the releasing agent has gone, then I suggest there is something wrong. A Murena should not lock the front wheels easily and should grip well. It can depend on the particular tyres of course. What tyres have you fitted? (full spec. please brand, size and rating etc. - you can email me if you prefer not to detail it here.) Have you read the FAQ section on my website, particularly on tyres? Also one further thing - you suggest you got 26.5 mpg recently. That is much too thirsty for a 1.6 Murena if everything is correct unless you are using lots of high revs on those very short journeys. I get 31 mpg from my 2.2 and the 1.6 should be the same or better. Roy
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« Last Edit: April 30, 2016, 10:23:08 am by roy4matra »
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Oetker
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« Reply #12 on: May 02, 2016, 06:41:39 pm » |
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About filling tank, don't fill with a hot engine to the max. Because there is a plastic tank it will shrink during cooldown and fuel will be spilled making the floor wet. There was a modification kit for the filling problem making your shoes wet. During fill up a airbubble get in the top of the tank. To prevent that a extra connection/ventil was made from the top to the fillerneck. The later Murena's it was adressed as seen on the pic   Remember to not put any cap on the filler neck. The cap needs to be not vented. Herman
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I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different. Murena 2.2 Red 1982.(sold) Murena 1.6 1981 black on places. (for sale). Nissan Leaf 2017. Renault Twingo Quickshift 2006.
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roy4matra
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« Reply #13 on: September 01, 2018, 12:28:00 pm » |
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About filling tank, don't fill with a hot engine to the max. Because there is a plastic tank it will shrink during cooldown and fuel will be spilled making the floor wet.
It is not the tank that changes shape (well very little anyway) it is the fuel itself that takes up less volume when cold compared to when hot. As you fill the fuel tank, the fuel coming from the underground storage tank is cold. Once in the Murena it will not only warm to ambient temperature, but actually get heated further because of the tanks location in the engine compartment. That expands the fuel and since the breather valve is quite low in the filler pipe neck, the increased volume means that the fuel floods the valve. From there it leaks out through the overflow/vent hose, onto the floor. The result is the same as Herman states, that you MUST not fill the tank and then park it up straight away otherwise you will end up with a pool of fuel under the car, and the fumes from this are highly combustible. There was a modification kit for the filling problem...
Herman
There was another modification that moved the ventilation valve to the top of the fuel tank, with the original hole blanked off. (as with the 'S' models) It did not matter then if the fuel reached the height of the original valve position, as it warmed up, since it would still be contained. The valve in the top of the tank is much too far above the surface to ever be reached and can therefore do its job correctly. I have now produced a technical article covering various aspects of the fuel tank and breather system, and this is available for download from my website, and the new technical section. Roy P.S. If you downloaded that fuel article before today (6th September) please delete it, and download the new * updated * one. I had to amend it with regard to the CBS ventilation valve as it does not have the thread right up to the collar.
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« Last Edit: September 06, 2018, 02:28:27 pm by roy4matra »
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