So there where a few things that looked suspicious to me and I'd like to get a professional opinion about.
I've put my thoughts and questions on the images and I numbered them for the answers.
Hopefully the images aren't too large this time
(Updated No.6 and I originally missed out No.21)
Well the images are still a bit too wide so I have to keeping moving sideways to read all the lines, but I suppose that might depend on you particular computer and monitor. If you have one of these new 'huge' wide screen things, like many seem to have now, it might be OK but they are too wide for my system!
Anyway on the the real topic... My personal view is that this car needs a thorough restoration as Herman has said and you will probably need two new trailing arms as there are signs not only of corrosion, but welded repairs that someone has attempted to hide with underseal! And whilst the trailing arms are off to be replaced you need to remove the complete power unit (engine & transmission) so that all the other problems can be attended to, at the same time. You need the trailing arms off to get the power unit out so this is the ideal time.
The clutch slave cylinder (No.1) is very corroded on the outside and whilst that may not be a problem if the inside is good, it shows the car has been somewhere very wet, and unused, for a long time. If the car had been used the moisture would have been dried by the heat from the engine. So it had to be laid up to cause that much rust, especially as it is mounted quite high, much higher than the 2.2 clutch slave cylinder. And this is why there is so much corrosion on many other things, and I fear the trailing arms will not be good.
No.2 shows someone has tried to hide the corrosion of this bracket with underseal.
No.3 show the box section and probably much of the underside has had a coating of underseal, which these should not have. A galvanised steel is better left exposed and underseal when split like this can allow water to creep in between the underseal and galvanised steel and the damage it causes cannot be seen until it is much too late!
That box section has probably been used for lifting the car with a trolley jack and the saddle has taken the underseal off. If you are going to use a trolley jack under the chassis box sections which is perfectly acceptable, then the saddle should have a rubber pad on it to protect the chassis.
No.4 shows one of the front torsion bar adjusters but the adjusting screw is almost off the thread with is definitely not right! If the front ride height is correct, then the torsion bar must have been off and refitted on the wrong spline. Needs further checks and probably work.
No.5 those heater coolant pipes should definitely NOT be attached to the gear change rod!! They are supposed to be in the middle of the two radiator coolant pipes and the four fit in two special clamps.
No.6 Yes, correct. An engine block normally has the two rubber mounts one on each side of the block, but the Murena is different so there are unused threaded holes on each side of the block. I don't think the one in your photo is the one for the starter support bracket, but what Herman said is important. The 1.6 Murena starter motor MUST have a support bracket at the rear, otherwise the clutch bell housing where the starter is bolted can break off owing to the weight and torque of the motor.
No.7 The rocker cover gasket is weeping.
No.8 & 10. This what I was saying about I think both trailing arms need replacing! In No.10 it looks like a welded repair is being hidden by underseal. The heat from the welding has caused the rubber in the flange to go like it has.
No.9 The two trailing arm bushes are slightly different. One has no rubber faced flange either end, the other has only a flange at one end.
No. 11 12 & 13 This is the engine stabiliser rubber mount which the drive shaft passes through.
No.14 is the support bracket for the bearing for the long drive shaft.
No.15 is the external oil pump and oil filter.
No.16 & 20 The brake discs are not bad but is it the thickness that is important. They are 11mm thick new and 9mm is worn out. If they are near 9mm then they should be changed whilst the trailing arms are off.
No.17 & 18 The drive shaft seals look like they need replacing.
No.19 The oil leaks that are leaving the lower portions of the powertrain covered all need to be sorted and that is best tackled whilst the powertrain is out.
No.21 (sorry I missed this one!) The water dripping from the rear bumper could just be rain water that is getting in somewhere, but also make sure it is plain water that is dripping out. The overflow hose from the engine coolant header tank could be directing into here, so if the liquid dripping out is engine coolant, you may have a problem with coolant coming out of the overflow.
I hate to say this but for someone as inexperienced as you have indicated you are from this and other postings, with few tools, a lot of this work will be beyond you at least without someone experienced to help and guide you. And it is going to be costly and take time. Did you not think to get someone to check the car before you bought it?
Roy
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