Crankshaft Rope seal resistance

[krede]

I have just replaced the crankshaft rope seal, but before I fix the seal carrier with the silicone and gaskets I would like to ask if anybody can tell me how much "resistance" to turning the crankshaft a new rope seal is supposed to offer ?. I am quite confident that I have pounded the seal sufficiently to sit correctly in the grooves, but It still takes quite some force to turn the crank afterwards.

[Jon Weywadt]

I have just replaced the crankshaft rope seal, but before I fix the seal carrier with the silicone and gaskets I would like to ask if anybody can tell me how much "resistance" to turning the crankshaft a new rope seal is supposed to offer ?. I am quite confident that I have pounded the seal sufficiently to sit correctly in the grooves, but It still takes quite some force to turn the crank afterwards.

The rope must fit into the groove so that no part of it get squeezed between the shaft and surrounding bearing halves. If it get squeezed it will act as a brake.
When I lived in the US I bought a new Chevy S10 pick-up truck. Within two years it dripped oil from the rope seal
The dealer explained that the rope seal was impregnated with wax and after a while the wax would not seal tight around the shaft. (This is a Fort T era technology)
Turned out they had a solution from later models. They took it apart and slid a K-ring seal over the shaft,. It fit in the rope seal groove and it never leaked again. 
Wonder if that could work on a N9T engine. The block is US made after all.

[Oetker]

here is exactly described how to install the rope.

http://www.chevytrucks.org/tech/bobadler-1.htm

[krede]

Thanks Oetker ... I fear that I might have made the "mistake" of soaking the ropes in oil before installing them... but then again, I have seen both methods .
I went past the engine workshop at work yesterday, and the engine guy insured me that the crank would be somewhat hard to turn by hand when a new seal is installed...