Accesories belt tensioner

[sjguk]

Hello again,
Quite some time ago I submitted a post asking how to lock the crankshaft on my 2.2 Dci engine so I could replace the crankshaft pulley, which had suffered from a disintergrating rubber seal. I was told, correctly, to buy Sealey tool VS1285 and an E18 socket, however when I tried to use VS1285 I found the cut out to be around 8mm too short to enble me to bolt the tool to the engine. I overcame this with a g-clamp and allen key, see attached photo, and wacked up the torque wrench to max and hey presto the pulley was removed. Again see photo showing wrecked rubber. Armed with a new pulley and belt I attempted to make good only to find the tensioner so stiff I couldn't get the new (or old) belt over the tensioning pulley wheel.
The type fitted is an automatic type with two bolts holding it to the engine and the mother of all springs inside. Do I need a special tool to lever the tensioner so I can fit the new belt??
Any help appreciated.
Thanks
Stuart

[sjguk]

Hello everyone,

I called the dealer today and it appears the automatic tensioner fitted to my engine cannot be moved once installed. When you buy a new belt as part of a kit (£101.84) you get a new tensioner, belt, and idler. The new tensioner is fitted with a locking device which you must remove during installation, this then releases the tensioning roller onto the belt, never to be slakened again. I now have to buy the kit  although they will credit me the cost of the new belt I bought separately (23.09 + vat).
Should be down on Tuesday. I will take some pics and post to show you all asap.

Stuart

[Martin Tyas]

The spring is definitely a strong one but a 13mm (if I remember correctly from when I did mine) on the bolt in the centre of the tensioner pulley allows you to rotate the tensioner sufficiently to slip the belt in place. I have a fairly long handled 13mm which helped get sufficient leverage... but you DO NOT have to replace the tensioner pulley to replace the belt. Depending upon the mileage it may be adviseable but it certainly isn't mandatory otherwise why and how would they have been able to supply you with a belt only in the first place?
If replacing the tensioner was essential to replace the belt, as they are suggesting, then the only way you should be able to buy the belt is as part of a kit complete with tensioner but you can buy the belt separately as you... and I... have already done.
Sounds to me like your local Renault dealer is a bit short of parts business and is turning to a bit of Bull Manure to bring in some extra turnover

Martin

[sjguk]

Martin,
Sorry for the delay in replying, you're correct about moving the tensioner by the nut in the centre of the roller, it was very stiff but no match for brute strength and ignorance After examining the roller I found a couple of chips, see photo, so I decided to play safe and get the new tensioner anyway, the car has done 99k anyway.
The new roller was fitted with the pin in place and then removed from above, by my ever helpful assistant (dad) after tension released from below. New belt fitted, I looped over new crank pulley and tensioner first but not the pulley at bottom then moved tensioner roller with spanner and looped over that as it has no flange unlike the bottom roller.  Runs like a dream, new bulb and front wipers and went through MOT first time.
Thanks for all help offered, until next time.
Stuart

[Valfrid]

I've just swapped out my crankshaft pulley on my Espace III 2.2DCi. Trick is, to remove the pulley, place the bit on to the pulley's nut and rest a long-arm good quality wrench handle on to the wishbone - make sure this is resting right on to the wishbone with no slack. Now jump in and 'kick' the starter. Just literally a split second turn of the key and with a slight clunk, the nut is free. With regard to the tensioner. I just pop a 13mm socket on it and turn and it lifts up. There is a section on the sprung assembly of the unit that's in the shape of a U - not easy to see but you can feel for it. Using a 5mm short allen key or if you're lucky like me, using the rod that comes with these tensioners, you should be able to, with the wrench push as far as you can push it, push the rod in to lock the tensioner and that's it - belt is slack and you are good to go. I changed my pulley in under 30 minutes doing it this way. Reassembled using thread lock (although Renault use a what seems more varnish-based substance that once broken makes for easier removal than the thread-locked bolt will be!). Once tight, removed the allen key/ pin from the tensioner and torque up the crankshaft nut and that's it.