Alternative Parts

[richard]

well i am busy drawing parts, some are not so difficult. End caps (and some other parts) are not going to be exactly the same as original, i will test them on my spare bumpers etc. Change both sides and nobody will see. When i got some samples ready i can send them tou you, just pay me shipping costs. When parts fit i can re-create them. Have to find out what is the best material to use, because it is used in all wheater. ABS should work the best, not sure is parts can be printed with this because of the layout (abs schrinks parts then curl).

[TELBOY]

This time next year youll be a miwwion air. They look great. Basically anything plastic you can make! I like the interior light.

[richard]

a 9 hour print 

[Jon Weywadt]

a 9 hour print 

--

If  you could scan and print the plastic cap of the gear shift in the center console, I would be very interested. In dark brown to replace mint that is cracked.
Please let me know if this is possible.
Regards.
Jon

[richard]

if the part fits to my buildplate 20x20 cm is should not be a problem. colour would be a bigger challenge. think it is better to spray paint it. i do not have a spare shift cap, so i need exact measures. This autumn / winter i could remove mine till then  i want to drive 

[richard]

[Lennart Sorth]

This is brilliant !

How strong and/or flexible do you recon the print is ?

I remember from earlier days of 3D printing that this was a problem, and a 3D print was more for checking the CAD drawing before sending it to somebody with a CFC milling machine.

What software and file formats are you using ?  - maybe you could crowdsource the model-building to the rest of us  (even if we're sort of a small crowd) ?

/Lennart

[richard]

This is brilliant !

How strong and/or flexible do you recon the print is ?

I remember from earlier days of 3D printing that this was a problem, and a 3D print was more for checking the CAD drawing before sending it to somebody with a CFC milling machine.

What software and file formats are you using ?  - maybe you could crowdsource the model-building to the rest of us  (even if we're sort of a small crowd) ?

/Lennart

quality, strength and appearance are the things to take into account when creating the 3d prints. Once you draw a part (i use Fusion360) you have to think of what is the use. Is it on the outside (of the car) and visible, or is it behind some panel, but it should be heat resistant. I think parts gonna be strong enough in most cases, because you van choose to make a solid part for strength or a 0  - 99 % to be lightweight or stronger part. Like the endcaps for bumpers they were not strong enough so i added some thickness, and now they are strong.  What wil happen is that part may look a little different from original. Also the printing material that is most easy to make smooth is ABS, because it wil melt when getting in contact with acceton. Other materials may need to be sanded and painted to get them smooth. I do not know how ABS wil hold in UV light, it might loose color. Nice thing about 3d printing is, you could always print a new part. Proces of smooting is also a thing to consider. What exact do you mean by crowdsource the molel building ?

[krede]

That is great work Richard.
I ,my self, thought of having some spacers for the pop up headlights printed.

[richard]

if i can help, let me know

[maxderoswell]

With some slight adjustments this ignition-barrel can be mounted in a Murena.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170802064082?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Not original Neiman but for 20 Euro incl shipment a bargain..



Red = + and yellow is starter.


The yellow in this connector = + contact.
The yellow with stripe = + with contact on but switches of during start.


Herman

Hello,

a friend ask me to connect it to the wiring loom of the murena.

Actually:

Wire 1 : 5RGRG -> Red Red 5mm2
Wire 14 : 2GRNO -> Grey Black 2mm2
Wire 10: 5GRGR -> Grey Grey 5mm2

Wire 14 go to starter
Wire 1 is a 12V from battery
Wire 10 go to fuse panel.

So with the new barel alternative:

Red = Wire 1
Orange = Wire 14
Yellow = Wire 10
Yellow/green  = nothing

Is it correct ?

Thank you

Mathieu

[Oetker]

At first glance it looks alright
It's been a while since.
If my memory is right I also placed a relay near the fusepanel to take over the high current that can run there.
The wires of the traffic lock are undersized to.
We already using a 100 Amp relais so the lock only has to do that relais and the starter solenoid.

1 wire is not used (see my measurements).
Red=+ accu from the fusepanel and  goes to red wire Murena.
Yellow next to red wire goes to small grey wire for starting.
Yellow with stripe not used but yoy can put acces. on it like a radio,
Yellow next to yellow with stripe goes to thick grey wire to the  fusepanel.

If you are working on that measure the voltage at the lock.
In my case and some other members voltage wad dropped to 10.5 volt
This was the coarse, hided by the isolationtape



This 2 wires on the grey connector go to the lock.


The relais

[Grapes]

Alternative, alternative brake discs?
The front discs 4246.B6 are sold out virtually everywhere I looked and if they are available they are almost twice the regular price.
Not sure if mine need replacing but I'm open to suggestions including an entirely different brake setup if that makes more financial as well as practical sense when these parts are getting more scarce.

[roy4matra]

Alternative, alternative brake discs?
The front discs 4246.B6 are sold out virtually everywhere I looked and if they are available they are almost twice the regular price.

When things get scarce the price goes up, so the discs are a typical example where even the plain discs are now more expensive than they were when they were commonly available.  It's a fact of life and you have bought a rare care for which many parts are now scarce!

Not sure if mine need replacing but I'm open to suggestions including an entirely different brake setup if that makes more financial as well as practical sense when these parts are getting more scarce.

Simon Auto sell both plain discs and his cross-drilled and grooved ones.  Personally I prefer the cross-drilled ones, with EBC greenstuff pads.  Much stronger braking and you should always have the best.  'Penny pinching' on braking systems should not even be considered.

I think I may have one set of plain steel discs left in my stock, but to send these abroad will cost because of their size and weight, so you may as well order direct from Simon Auto.

Roy

[Grapes]

Yep makes perfect sense. I'll be doing a trip to Simon somewhere this month anyway to check out the F2 they should have there so I'll make sure I'll pick up some spares while I'm there! I like the sound of strong braking, drilled and grooved it is!