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Author Topic: Advice on removing water pump with engine in car  (Read 9047 times)
davidewanprice
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« on: September 18, 2010, 08:15:09 pm »

Hi guys,

As my title states I'm after picking your brains on how to remove the water pump without taking the engine out, its a 2.2 by the way. I'm guessing but I would imagine that by loosening the engine mounts then lifting the engine slightly would do it?
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Matra_Hans
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« Reply #1 on: September 18, 2010, 09:24:14 pm »

Yes you are right the water pump can be replaced the way that you are describing. Have done it myself a few years back.

Hans
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davidewanprice
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« Reply #2 on: September 18, 2010, 09:29:50 pm »

I can't believe how close it is, you'd only need a mm or two to get it out, which bolts will I need to loosen in order to get this done.. I'm hoping that the seal inside is the same as one we make at our work, if so that could save lots of people buying whole units...
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #3 on: September 19, 2010, 07:23:55 pm »

The job shouldn't be that bad.

You first suspend the engine from the top and support it on the front against the firewall.
Then you loosen the top stabilizer link and the gear box mount. Do not loosen the lower right engine mount.
Lowering the engine carefully down, it will pivot around the right engine mount and leave you enough place to replace the pump.

I have to admit I have never tried it myself, but this is the way it's done and described in the manual AFAIR.

It will be very interesting to hear whether the seal fits.
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142
2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah

Used to own:
2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v
1997 Renault Matra Espace 2.0 8V
1987 Renault Matra Espace J11 2.2
roy4matra
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« Reply #4 on: September 20, 2010, 10:31:39 am »

The job shouldn't be that bad.

You first suspend the engine from the top and support it on the front against the firewall.
Then you loosen the top stabilizer link and the gear box mount. Do not loosen the lower right engine mount.
Lowering the engine carefully down, it will pivot around the right engine mount and leave you enough place to replace the pump.

No, sorry that is not the way to do it, and if David had read the recent magazine I stated how in my article on the 2.2 engine.

All you need to do is support the gearbox, and remove the gearbox mounting cross bolt.  Then lower the gearbox carefully, which will swing the engine away from the RH inner wing giving enough room to change the water pump.


Quote
I have to admit I have never tried it myself, but this is the way it's done and described in the manual AFAIR.

This is one of the places the official manual is wrong, as stated in my article.  You do not need to do anything with the RH engine mount, nor suspend the engine, but you may have to loosen the stabiliser link - can't remember now as it's been a long while since I did the last one!  Simply support and remove gearbox mounting and lower that end.  If you have an 'S' or Prep 142 or any airbox that sits over the fuel tank, you need to remove that first, since it will foul the tank when you try to lower the gearbox.

Roy
« Last Edit: September 20, 2010, 10:49:52 am by roy4matra » Logged

Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #5 on: September 20, 2010, 11:24:11 am »

No, sorry that is not the way to do it, and if David had read the recent magazine I stated how in my article on the 2.2 engine.

Thanks for the correction Roy! Your article in the MEC UK magazine is a gold mine. I should have checked that first.

/Anders
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142
2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah

Used to own:
2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v
1997 Renault Matra Espace 2.0 8V
1987 Renault Matra Espace J11 2.2
krede
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« Reply #6 on: September 20, 2010, 04:11:11 pm »

I need to change the (lower) bracket holding the Generator. can this be done the same way?
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davidewanprice
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« Reply #7 on: September 20, 2010, 06:39:42 pm »

Thanks Roy, I'll dig it out.
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roy4matra
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« Reply #8 on: September 22, 2010, 10:41:51 am »

I need to change the (lower) bracket holding the Generator. can this be done the same way?

I wasn't aware you had to do anything special to remove that bracket.  After removing alternator, the bracket is held on by just two bolts - the large one that goes through to the block and a small one to the timing case.  Access from underneath with engine in normal position.

Roy
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krede
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« Reply #9 on: September 22, 2010, 05:27:49 pm »

I got the impression the the bolt for the bracket were too long to clear the inner wheel arch.... but I'll give it a go Smiley
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