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BrianM
Sr. Member
Posts: 325
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« Reply #3 on: April 22, 2013, 12:32:00 pm » |
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P,G,Spaven
Newbie
Posts: 11
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« Reply #7 on: April 25, 2013, 11:32:37 am » |
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Thanks again Brian, I really hope your aware of just how greatfull I am of your help. Background; served my time as electrician (not auto) changed my trade to a pipe welder but broke my back so now can't work or afford renault garage prices. I bought this 1998 diesel espace 2.2td JEOE with an immobilizerproblem! The immo light stays on constant when the ignition is turned, the engine turns over but doesn't start, the immo light returns to normal when the ignition's turned off. The courtesy lights weren't working so, because they are timed by the decoder I thought it wise to fix all the wiring problems first, this I did (standing water in both cable runs down each side of the vehicle causing every connection to be corroded)now everything works, central door locking button, courtesy lights/alarm, everything except the immobilizer! As the problem was intermittent,I thought it might be something fixable as the decoder box is bullet proof there must be some reason its finally stopped working altogether. Although I've got 12volts supplying the decoder,there is only 10.5volts on track A6 of the black 15way connector of the decoder! I think this is the supply to the antenna ring? I would introduce a 12volume supply into the antenna ring but I'm a bit unsure as the diagram says that A6 is the antenna ring/decoder unit coded line! I don't want to brake the components by doing something wrong. I can't help thinking that this reduced voltage is the reason for the solenoid not activating, there must be a reason for this reduced voltage? It says that there's a control relay for the immobilizer and also one for the door closing/alarm information relay.I would dearly like to be able to locate this relay. Go fact I would love to be able to find and identity all the relays, passenger foot well and engine compartment. I could make a tool up for locking off the cam/crank if I knew what the dimensions were and how to use it, to be honest with you, I've not looked into the special tools section yet and I think that document you spoke of in the vaults might give me a guide to using the tool. if I can avoid taking the stop off, I will, but I think the only way forward is to remove the electronics me the coded solenoid. The immo light configuration (on solid when keys turned )leads me to believe (by using the fault finding ,customer complaints,chart 3 page 50 of N.T. 2754A) that either the decoder or the coded solenoid or its electronics are to blame, the reduced voltage at the antenna ring is throwing me a bit though. The only way to check for a visual fault in the electronics of the solenoid is to remove the pump! I should add that this decoder is one of the ones where a code CAN be entered via the CDLB with it being a 77.00.416.293.
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P,G,Spaven
Newbie
Posts: 11
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« Reply #8 on: April 25, 2013, 11:57:06 am » |
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Bad spelling, If I can avoid taking the pump off, I will. I would prefer the immobilizer to work but seen I haven't got am ossilliscope or a diagnostic tool i.e the XR25 then I will have to take the pump off to check for visual faults of the coded valves electronics and also to check if the solenoid itself is actually working. I could afford to get a compleat key set from the scrap yard but would still have to either use the pump/valve off the scrapped car or buy a new coded solenoid or get the code wiped from the valve using a XR25?all of which makes that option too dear. Obviously if I can't rectify this problem then I will have to remove the coded valve but I want to avoid that really. Thanks again. Peter.
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P,G,Spaven
Newbie
Posts: 11
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« Reply #10 on: April 26, 2013, 08:59:18 pm » |
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Yes, I was getting a bit worried about the info. I read the thread about baking the B11 and had to laugh at the 610,000! Its only mileage Brian lol, sucks I know but hey! Its all the bloody car thieves faults! They chop their hands off in some places. Getting back to the corroded wires, there were a lot! I still have to check the cable runs in the boot area. There was also a lot of bunching going on, also cable crushing at the fuse box shroud and both galv plates on the outside of each front foot well. I had to cut bigger apputures as they were that tight they were squashing the insulation on lots of wires! Anyway, I'm not too good with mumutters so it might take me a day to set up skype! Please be patient with me I will PM you if that's ok? Thanks Brian. Peter.
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