New Work Log

TimS · August 01, 2014, 06:19:04 PM

After a recent test drive highlighted some front end problems, notably bearing whine and loose bushes, I thought it might be time to start a new work log.

I planned to take several days stripping the front of the car, cleaning fitting and rebuilding. I enlisted the hel of my father-in-law who wasn't having any of that, so consequently we stripped and rebuilt the whole front end in one day!

I dropped off the brake calipers , disconnnecetd and replace track rod ends, fitted new anti-roll bar bushes as preparation.

Then today we undid the top and bottom ball joints and found that the offside front upper ball joint was completely frozen. Both lower ones were good. So we fitted a new upper one. A local garage pressed out the old bearings and fitted my new ones. It apparently took 4 tonnes of pressure to extract and fit them!

A long afternoon later we had everything refitted and torqued up. A quick test drive showed that we need to get the tracking aligned, but the bearing whine is substantially reduced.

On another note, do other owners have front shock absorbers like mine or do they have full length upper covers? I wonder if mine have been cut down?

GP · August 01, 2014, 08:23:47 PM

The dampers are standard aftermarket adjustable Koni's.

Your covers are not cut down Tim.

Cheers,

Graham

TimS · August 02, 2014, 10:17:30 AM

Thanks Graham.

Mine were gong to get cleaned and painted up like yours before refitting, but my father in law doesn't believe in that- they were back on the car before I could blink. Beware Ford-trained mechanics!

I'll have to cunningly Hammerite my dust shields at least to try and slow the corrosion, by just taking the wheel off

Oetker · August 02, 2014, 06:06:50 PM

Proffesional mechanics see this things different.
They also don't know the nags of the car and time=money so do it fast.
It's a old car, that needs deeper investigation on parts that wear.
Most of the time one job leads to the other.

Herman

Joe Webb · August 03, 2014, 08:59:31 PM

did you have any problems with the lower bolt?

i can't budge mine an Ångström, it is completely stuck fast, i must be missing something

Joe

lewisman · August 03, 2014, 10:32:44 PM

You will never split it with just the weight of the car on a steady loading.

You need a proper ball joint splitter. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XXR-TOOLS-BALL-JOINT-SEPARATOR-FORK-TYPE-LONG-SPLITTER-MECHANIC-TIE-ROD-LIFTER-/111252800846?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item19e72f054e

The "fork" type splitters are okay if you intend to replace the ball joint as they will almost certainly damage the rubber gaiter. Two hammers one on either side of the metal where the taper goes through can help.

Joe Webb · August 03, 2014, 10:38:51 PM

ok so it's not just a bolt through a hole?

yeah i've tried hammering it

judging by the pictures above though it's just a straight bolt? won't the whole thing just push through?

cheers!

Oetker · August 04, 2014, 05:44:08 AM

It's conic and rusted.
Indeed 2 hamers on each side of the holdingpoint at the lower arm.
Hit it firmly.
If that want do it use the ball-joint tool. but that will damage the rubber.
Removing the he ball joint itself is a pain and need some more spinach .
They don't budge easy.
I'm not sure the rubber is separate available.
There are universal rubbers on the market.
Maybe this will fit or hop along a local repairshop.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-X-SLIDE-A-BOOT-LARGE-UNIVERSAL-BALL-JOINT-TRACK-ROD-END-RUBBER-GREASE-COVERS-/181481307379?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a4120fcf3

On E-bay are several Delhpi ball-joints for sale type TC-93 bu but they don't fit.
They are for Simca 1100 and to small.

Herman

GP · August 04, 2014, 07:11:38 AM

A good soaking with rust releasing agent i.e. "Plus Gas" and some careful hammer taps around the outside off the casting to encourage penetration may help removal of the conical taper along with the previous advice.

Joe Webb · August 04, 2014, 10:30:05 AM

Ok great, thanks a lot, i was smashing it a bit with the hammer and was worried about damaging it, guess ill just keep trying

Cheers!

JL · August 04, 2014, 04:58:56 PM

Hi
As Oetker says, it is important to use 2 hammers. Both as heavy as possible and hit both sides of the carrier at the same time! If you can have a load on the bolt even better.

Good Luck
John

Jon Weywadt · August 04, 2014, 05:27:43 PM

Quote from: Joe Webb on August 03, 2014, 08:59:31 PM
did you have any problems with the lower bolt?

i can't budge mine an Ångström, it is completely stuck fast, i must be missing something

Joe

What you need ti a tie rod separator like the one in the picture below.

Jon Weywadt · August 04, 2014, 05:30:30 PM

Quote from: GP on August 01, 2014, 08:23:47 PM
------

Hi Graham.

Where did you get your upgraded disks and callipers? I assume that the silver metal block in the picture is an adapter that allow you to fit ventilated disks and the bigger callipers

GP · August 04, 2014, 06:25:38 PM

Quote from: Jon Weywadt on August 04, 2014, 05:30:30 PM
Quote from: GP on August 01, 2014, 08:23:47 PM
------
Hi Graham.

Where did you get your upgraded disks and callipers? I assume that the silver metal block in the picture is an adapter that allow you to fit ventilated disks and the bigger callipers

Hi Jon,

A company called Rallydesign in the U.K:

http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/index.php?manufacturers_id=45&&page=1

The silver metal block is an aluminium alloy of HE 30 specification. They sell all the components in the picture, however I had to design and machine the block of HE 30 myself to make everything fit together.

They told me to make the block out of MDF to start with and bring the whole assembly in to check it over and approve it O.K. including my calculations for Brake Master Cylinder size (original O.K.) for brake caliper size before I went ahead.
N.B. I fitted a brake pressure reduction valve in the front hydraulic circuit and removed the brake pressure reduction valve in the rear hydraulic circuit along with some Sierra Cosworth Handbrake Calipers.

This obviously is not an off the shelf kit, however Darren who is on the forum has had a kit made up by Hi-Spec Motorsport in the U.K:

http://www.hispecbrake.co.uk/

This is awesome and with the aluminium bell design you don't have to press everything apart to change the discs. Darren has done the rear also in a similar manner. They should have all the data in their system definitely, possibly, maybe?

Cheers,

Graham

P.S. Note the suspension mod. Torsion bars removed also!

TimS · August 04, 2014, 06:41:03 PM

i recently picked up a load of tie rod end rubbers at a local classic car show for a few pennies. The guy had loads of ball-joint ones too. I'll get some next time as spares, all for about 50p each!

BTW can anyone show me a photo of a correct Murena wheel bolt for the standard alloy wheel? Are they like the ones here on Simons site? http://www.simon-auto-shop.com/shop/cgi-bin/shop.dll?SESSIONID=0633092215750366&sprachdir=../en/&AnbieterID=16

Mine are quitre badly rusted and the heads have been stripped a little. But they have much smaller bolt-heads than the ones shown.

Btw Graham, I'd love to have a look at your car when it's up and about again. Hope you could have made it to Beaulieu too, but next time.