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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #211 on: June 20, 2020, 08:42:19 pm » |
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Och.... could.drive it over for less! Think matraian has the right link sorted.
That sunds like a great plan - I would be looking forward to having you here  Thank you Ian - Only 12 years ago. How could I forget that thread  I did some research looking for the Peugeot alternator Herman refers to. I could'nt get an exact match and unfortunately Herman didn't mention the parts number back then. So for now I'm probably sticking to the Clio alternator. But the idea about moving over the front with the mounting from the old one is great. Herman mentions cutting the extra wire to the regulator. That's perfectly possible as iti' only there for the diagnostic connector, which most of us have little or no use for. I have removed it from my engine wiring loom. The "B" connection simply transmits the power transmitted into the rotor coil and makes it available at the connector. If you connect an oscilloscope, you'll be able to see the alternator working. I've attached the diagram from my Tagora manual below. The darlington transistor Q2 is fully conducting until the power reaches 14V. This is monitored by the voltage divider R1 and R2, zener diode CR1 and Q1. When the voltage reaches 14V, Q1 opens and this draws the base of Q2 down causing it to cut off. No current will then flow in the rotor coil. It's a very simple regulator that will ensure the rotor coil is always powered by pulses just long enough to keep the voltage over the battery at 14V. All modern alternators work like this, although I think the designers have switched to MOSFET transistors instead of the bipolar darlington power transistors that this late 1970's circuit features. /Anders
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« Last Edit: June 20, 2020, 08:45:34 pm by Anders Dinsen »
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'82 Murena 2.2 prep 142 '01 Grand Espace 24v '08 Smart Fortwo 0,8 cdi
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roy4matra
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« Reply #222 on: June 23, 2020, 05:37:32 pm » |
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Unless you can provide 142hp you dont belong in there! Shame they're out of stock, but other fitments!
Haha, well SHE (the lady with 142 hp) has volunteerede to let me lend her room considering the work I'm doing there. She's watching me work - and she looks happy  It is indeed a shame that they're not available  /Anders Wood Autos here in the U.K. used to be able to supply an 80 amp version of the A13N10 Paris-Rhone but I see they are showing out of stock at the moment. But that may be because they don't have any to overhaul. Have you checked with them if they have the parts to overhaul one? https://www.woodauto.com/bom/50138/VALEO-A13N10Or maybe you could buy the parts from them to do an overhaul yourself? Roy
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #223 on: June 27, 2020, 08:15:27 am » |
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Or maybe you could buy the parts from them to do an overhaul yourself?
Thanks for the link to Wood Auto's bill of materials for the 10N13, Roy! I will indeed do my own overhaul. I've researched the Clio 13N157 alternator a bit more and finds that while it is very similar (it even has the same two pin regulator), the front cover is mirrored compared to the 13N10 and misses an indent. Changing the mount to fit the Clio alternator is possible in theory, but requires different parts and brackets. If I couldn't get parts for the alternator, I would probably have modifed a 13N157 using the front cover from the old 13N10, but since both Wood in the UK and Technikline in Germany has the parts I need except one, I'll be enjoying going ahead doing my own overhaul. The only part I need which they're both missing from their lists is the terminal bolt and a new back cover. I'll be contacting both of them about that. If the back cover is not available, I'll have the cracks welded. Meanwhile I'll continue working on the engine room. I'm making slow but good progress there, and not finding too many surprises. A major next step is removing the fuel tank to get access to the chassis parts hidden behind it. Best, Anders
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« Last Edit: June 27, 2020, 08:39:01 am by Anders Dinsen »
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'82 Murena 2.2 prep 142 '01 Grand Espace 24v '08 Smart Fortwo 0,8 cdi
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JL
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« Reply #224 on: June 28, 2020, 12:42:47 am » |
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Hi Anders I have used Lumiweld to repair aluminium castings in the past, only a blowlamp and cleanliness required. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPfb5eSY9yoThere are a number of different manufacturers but I have found that Lumiweld works for me. Regards John
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