Getting ready for the road again

[TELBOY]

Och.... could.drive it over for less! Think matraian has the right link sorted.

[Anders Dinsen]

Och.... could.drive it over for less! Think matraian has the right link sorted.

That sunds like a great plan - I would be looking forward to having you here

Hello Anders
Tokk me a while to find it but i knew i had seen something about alternatives for alternator repair. Check this thread.
http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/index.php/topic,1080.0.html
Might help
Regards
Ian

Thank you Ian - Only 12 years ago. How could I forget that thread

I did some research looking for the Peugeot alternator Herman refers to. I could'nt get an exact match and unfortunately Herman didn't mention the parts number back then. So for now I'm probably sticking to the Clio alternator. But the idea about moving over the front with the mounting from the old one is great.

Herman mentions cutting the extra wire to the regulator. That's perfectly possible as iti' only there for the diagnostic connector, which most of us have little or no use for. I have removed it from my engine wiring loom. The "B" connection simply transmits the power transmitted into the rotor coil and makes it available at the connector. If you connect an oscilloscope, you'll be able to see the alternator working.

I've attached the diagram from my Tagora manual below. The darlington transistor Q2 is fully conducting until the power reaches 14V. This is monitored by the voltage divider R1 and R2, zener diode CR1 and Q1. When the voltage reaches 14V, Q1 opens and this draws the base of Q2 down causing it to cut off. No current will then flow in the rotor coil. It's a very simple regulator that will ensure the rotor coil is always powered by pulses just long enough to keep the voltage over the battery at 14V. All modern alternators work like this, although I think the designers have switched to MOSFET transistors instead of the bipolar darlington power transistors that this late 1970's circuit features.

/Anders

[TELBOY]

Oh I love it when you get technical lol.
Way out of my league. But my matra.runs a 405 1.9 engine .
Where the hell did you.learn all this stuff?

[Anders Dinsen]

Oh I love it when you get technical lol.
Way out of my league. But my matra.runs a 405 1.9 engine .
Where the hell did you.learn all this stuff?

I went 6.5 years to engineering university. I even earned a degree Also, I played a lot with cars and transistors during my childhood - I'm still playing, except they're bigger now

1.9, I'll check that. It may be too much to ask, but if you get under the car, could you take a picture of your alternator?

/Anders

[TELBOY]

No problem. Will be  fitting new oil filter later so will gry to get some. Its not that easy to get too. So not sjre how they will.come out

[TELBOY]

best I could get, had to remove the carb to get anywhere near it! if you think it could be of any use I can remove and photograph.
Just delete when done.

[TELBOY]

last

[Anders Dinsen]

Thanks so much Terry! It's very kind of you to spend time taking these photos! Your alternator actually looks very different from the Paris Rhone and the regulator says BOSCH. The distance between pulley and fan looks about the same as the Murena 2.2 alternator. The mounting points also look very different, although we can't see the bottom one here. The Murena 2.2. alternator is fixed to the engine at the bottom with adjustment happening on the top - this one looks like it's fixed on the top mount and adjustments take place on the lower mount.

Still something to think about!

Best,
Anders

[TELBOY]

Yes you're corrent Anders. It pivots at the top. The adjuster is by swinging the bottom out.

[Anders Dinsen]

Thanks Terry. So it's obviously not the Peuogeot 1.9 alternator we need

While I'm thinking about alternators, I might as well work in the engine room

[TELBOY]

Unless you can provide 142hp you dont belong in there!
Shame they're out of stock, but other fitments!

[Anders Dinsen]

Unless you can provide 142hp you dont belong in there!
Shame they're out of stock, but other fitments!

Haha, well SHE (the lady with 142 hp) has volunteerede to let me lend her room considering the work I'm doing there. She's watching me work - and she looks happy

It is indeed a shame that they're not available

/Anders

[roy4matra]

Unless you can provide 142hp you dont belong in there!
Shame they're out of stock, but other fitments!

Haha, well SHE (the lady with 142 hp) has volunteerede to let me lend her room considering the work I'm doing there. She's watching me work - and she looks happy

It is indeed a shame that they're not available

/Anders

Wood Autos here in the U.K. used to be able to supply an 80 amp version of the A13N10 Paris-Rhone but I see they are showing out of stock at the moment.  But that may be because they don't have any to overhaul.  Have you checked with them if they have the parts to overhaul one?

https://www.woodauto.com/bom/50138/VALEO-A13N10

Or maybe you could buy the parts from them to do an overhaul yourself?

Roy

[Anders Dinsen]

Or maybe you could buy the parts from them to do an overhaul yourself?

Thanks for the link to Wood Auto's bill of materials for the 10N13, Roy! I will indeed do my own overhaul.

I've researched the Clio 13N157 alternator a bit more and finds that while it is very similar (it even has the same two pin regulator), the front cover is mirrored compared to the 13N10 and misses an indent.

Changing the mount to fit the Clio alternator is possible in theory, but requires different parts and brackets. If I couldn't get parts for the alternator, I would probably have modifed a 13N157 using the front cover from the old 13N10, but since both Wood in the UK and Technikline in Germany has the parts I need except one, I'll be enjoying going ahead doing my own overhaul.

The only part I need which they're both missing from their lists is the terminal bolt and a new back cover. I'll be contacting both of them about that. If the back cover is not available, I'll have the cracks welded.

Meanwhile I'll continue working on the engine room. I'm making slow but good progress there, and not finding too many surprises. A major next step is removing the fuel tank to get access to the chassis parts hidden behind it.

Best,
Anders

[JL]

Hi Anders

I have used Lumiweld to repair aluminium castings in the past, only a blowlamp and cleanliness required.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPfb5eSY9yo

There are a number of different manufacturers but I have found that Lumiweld works for me.

Regards
John