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Author Topic: Getting ready for the road again  (Read 51209 times)
Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #255 on: August 27, 2021, 06:26:12 am »

My friend Jesper came over to play and work on the engine yesterday evening. We completed removing the cylinder head, moving the cam and followers over to the new cylinder head. Here are some pictures from an evening of fun!
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142
2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v
2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah
Murena1400
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« Reply #256 on: August 31, 2021, 03:20:15 pm »

Small thing to note, your fuel tank straps are the wrong way around, the short one is supposed to be below, the long one on the top. The rubber cover is actually exposed outwards, so flipped to your current configuration, and protects your hands during engine work.
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #257 on: September 01, 2021, 07:32:13 am »

Small thing to note, your fuel tank straps are the wrong way around, the short one is supposed to be below, the long one on the top. The rubber cover is actually exposed outwards, so flipped to your current configuration, and protects your hands during engine work.

Thank you, Youri! You are absolutely right!

After studying the picture you DM'd me, I checked against this wide angle picture of the engine room just after I had taken the engine out.

/Anders
« Last Edit: September 01, 2021, 07:40:40 am by Anders Dinsen » Logged

1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142
2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v
2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah
roy4matra
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« Reply #258 on: September 02, 2021, 01:03:28 am »

Small thing to note, your fuel tank straps are the wrong way around, the short one is supposed to be below, the long one on the top. The rubber cover is actually exposed outwards, so flipped to your current configuration, and protects your hands during engine work.

Thank you, Youri! You are absolutely right!

After studying the picture you DM'd me, I checked against this wide angle picture of the engine room just after I had taken the engine out.

/Anders

Whilst Youri is correct in this case, since this is a 2.2, it should be pointed out for completeness (and 1.6 owners) that on the Murena 1.6 the short strap at the top, is correct!  It appear Matra placed the inner fuel strap joint near the top on the 1.6 as there was plenty of room for access from the top, but then found that on the 2.2 model access from the top was limited and more difficult, especially when twin side-draught carbs. were fitted, so they switched them around and placed the joint nearer the bottom.

Roy
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #259 on: October 17, 2021, 07:10:38 am »

The problem with the cylinder head bolt being offset was easily solved once I got the head off the block again. As expected, there was a small lug in the bolt opening which just had to be filed off. This particular head had corrosion around the water channels and was therefore welded for me several years ago at the same time as it had the combustion chambers and ports polished. The head is now back on the block, and I'm preparing for doing a compression test.

Before I get to that I have to finish assembly of a few items and I have a doubt about torque for some bolts and the chain guides.

The upper chain gear is fixed to the cam with three bolts. My German Tagora manual tells me to torque them with the "vorgeschreibten moment", but I can't find the specification in the manual. I have tightenend them "properly" with a short spanner but if there is a torque specification somewhere, I'll use that.

The other doubt is about the exhaust side chain guide. This has rather large bolt holes in it so it can be positioned properly against the chain, but I'm unsure how hard it should push against the chain. The manual, again, is a bit unclear:

"Die beiden Führungsschienen der Steuerkette befestgen, Markierun des Nockenwellenzahnrads zur Markierung des Zylinderkopfs ausrichten, hierzy die Steuerkette in Motordrehrichtung spannen (gespannter Teil der Kette auf der dem Kettenspanner gegenügerliegenden Seite, also an der Geraden Führungsscheine)"

(German is a wonderful language!)

This essentially instructs me to tighten the guides so that the cam is correctly timed, but does not say how tight the chain should run against the guides, i.e. how much play can I allow before I release the chain tensioner to the its work. I know the chain tensioner does the real work to keep the chain tight, but the timing is essentially controlled by the top end of the exhaust side guide and also has an influence on the chain tension.

Should I just tighten it so the timing is right, and be ok with that?

« Last Edit: October 17, 2021, 07:13:37 am by Anders Dinsen » Logged

1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142
2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v
2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah
roy4matra
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Posts: 1113



« Reply #260 on: October 17, 2021, 12:16:58 pm »

The problem with the cylinder head bolt being offset was easily solved once I got the head off the block again. As expected, there was a small lug in the bolt opening which just had to be filed off. This particular head had corrosion around the water channels and was therefore welded for me several years ago at the same time as it had the combustion chambers and ports polished. The head is now back on the block, and I'm preparing for doing a compression test.

Before I get to that I have to finish assembly of a few items and I have a doubt about torque for some bolts and the chain guides.

The upper chain gear is fixed to the cam with three bolts. My German Tagora manual tells me to torque them with the "vorgeschreibten moment", but I can't find the specification in the manual. I have tightenend them "properly" with a short spanner but if there is a torque specification somewhere, I'll use that.

The other doubt is about the exhaust side chain guide. This has rather large bolt holes in it so it can be positioned properly against the chain, but I'm unsure how hard it should push against the chain. The manual, again, is a bit unclear:

"Die beiden Führungsschienen der Steuerkette befestgen, Markierun des Nockenwellenzahnrads zur Markierung des Zylinderkopfs ausrichten, hierzy die Steuerkette in Motordrehrichtung spannen (gespannter Teil der Kette auf der dem Kettenspanner gegenügerliegenden Seite, also an der Geraden Führungsscheine)"

(German is a wonderful language!)

This essentially instructs me to tighten the guides so that the cam is correctly timed, but does not say how tight the chain should run against the guides, i.e. how much play can I allow before I release the chain tensioner to the its work. I know the chain tensioner does the real work to keep the chain tight, but the timing is essentially controlled by the top end of the exhaust side guide and also has an influence on the chain tension.

Should I just tighten it so the timing is right, and be ok with that?



Anders (and any others rebuilding the 2.2)  all the tightening torques have been on my website for years, since the 2.2 engine was not covered in the Matra Murena workshop manual.  However, they are in the Tagora workshop manual.  Take a look in the technical articles menu and webpage and you will find a file there.  Those small 6mm bolts are all quite low and you can overtighten by hand if you have a long spanner so be careful.

As for the chain guides, push them firmly by hand against the chain.  The straight section of chain should be tight anyway if you have pulled the cam around correctly to time the engine.  So push that straight guide firmly against it, 'firmly' here means you are not moving the chain from its already straight line.  As for the curved guide, push that firmly (with the same push as for the straight side) so that it takes all the slack out of the 'return' chain.  Whilst these might suggest the chain will wear the guide faces, in practice once the engine runs there will be a bit of movement anyway, and the faces of the guides are hard and if you examine them now you will see only a small wear marking on them.  Once you release the tensioner that will control any slight movement from the engine running.

If you left the guides not close enough to the chain and the chain was slack, that would actually cause more damage as the chain would be slapping the guide faces.

Roy
« Last Edit: October 17, 2021, 12:21:09 pm by roy4matra » Logged

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