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Author Topic: Time to do some repairs  (Read 12736 times)
Moes
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« Reply #30 on: February 18, 2020, 12:38:14 pm »

The past weekend I had planned to do some welding, sanding and cleaning of the chassis. I startet out just fine, but of course after not having the bottle of inert gas replaced on my welding unit in years I ran out of gas on Saturday, so no more welding that weekend..   

The air ducts from the engine compartment was both cracked under the trunk, my guess is that it is due to vibrations over the years. I did get it repaired on one side (before I ran out of inert gas), and I welded in a piece to reduce future vibration movement.

I hope to be done with the welding, sanding and cleaning of the chassis by next weekend, so that I can get started on priming and coating.  At that point my garage will need a thorough clean up from all the dust! before I start the assembling.     

Best regards Frederik
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #31 on: February 21, 2020, 07:22:46 am »

Very nice work!!!
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142
2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v
2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah
Moes
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Posts: 168



« Reply #32 on: February 29, 2020, 06:06:12 pm »

Hello

Thank you, Anders  Grin

I am finally done with the sanding and cleaning of the chassis (for now..), and I have got the areas with raw metal primed.

I should have spend some time wrapping some of my shelfs and other stuff in the garage with plastic.. It is quite the work getting it all clean again  Undecided

I have also startet on coating the engine crank case and brake calipers. The car is orange, so I choose a fluid and heat resistant two component epoxy top coat in Orange for the crank case (like some old Volvos..), but this paint has been very hard to work with, I have applied 3 coats, and it still seems to need a 4 coat  Shocked I have used this paint in red once before 10 year ago, without this issue.. So I was not that keen on getting startet on painting the brake calipers (with the same paint in red). But for some reason it turns out that the red paint is much, much better, it almost gets perfect coverage in first layer. Know I feel like the engine crank case should have been red too, that would have been so much easier, but I am almost done with it, so orange it is.

I have also got my aluminum parts back from glas blasting, and then back from surface treatment. The parts looked great after glas blasting, but of cause this surface is completely open. After surface treatment the parts has become grey, I had been told that the colour would depend on the surface and the quality af the aluminum, it looks all right, but I would have liked it to turn out in a lighter shade. And the surface still seems very open, which is not what I expected.
All in all I was very pleased with the result of the bolts and metal parts, but next time I will not have the aluminum parts surface treated like this, just glass blasted and treated with Alodine.  

Yesterday I recived two brand new gears for my gearbox, the were not cheap to come by, but it is going to be great with these and new synchromesh rings  Cheesy

The colors on the pictures does not seem "true", but you get the idea  Wink

Regards Frederik  
« Last Edit: February 29, 2020, 06:16:21 pm by Moes » Logged
Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #33 on: March 07, 2020, 08:10:26 am »

Hi Frederik

It's all really looking good. Like REALLY REALLY good!! I like the idea of the orange engine block. In the picture it looks perfect, but knowing you and by this time, I suspect you've already given it it's fourth coat. The red looks good too, though Smiley

Cleaning up is part of the fun, I guess  Roll Eyes

Are the parts in the box blasted and treated in the same way as the differential housing you're showing? It does look quite grey indeed, and perhaps not "open", but certainly porous.

Congrats on your new gears!

Best
ANders
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142
2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v
2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah
Moes
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Posts: 168



« Reply #34 on: March 21, 2020, 11:59:50 am »

Hello

Thank you again, Anders :-)

I have been working some more on the car the last weeks, and it is for most parts going along just fine.

On the bright side I have a little ekstra time on my hands these days  Undecided

I have run into a problem; I knew that glas blasting and surface treatment of the gearbox housing would be a bit of a gamble, because I did not know, if the treatment would remove material. The guy who glas blasted the gearbox housing covered up the inside and bearing seats, but yesterday I was preparing to assemble the gearbox, and after getting the new bearings on the high gear axle, I tried to place the axle in the housing, and it just slided in (which it was not suppose too  Cry )   It seems the surface treatment has removed some surface material, and now the fit is not correct.

As stated I knew it was a gamble, and it is not a big issue, I have two more gearbox housings, but this time I will just give it a good scrub down with paint remover, before assembling it.

Besides from the little ekstra gearbox work things a turning out just fine  Smiley  

I have bought a type of epoxy 2K primer which I have not been using before. It is made for boats and come in a light or regular version. It is from the manufacturer Hempel. The light primer which I bought is in my objective not light at all..  Cheesy  It is like soft-ice, but when thinned down it is surprisingly easy to work with (with a brush), no bubbles, good cover on edges, very nice finish. I don not know about the durability yet, but so far a am very pleased with it! I apply two coats, first one quiet thin, and the second a bit thicker.

Best regards Frederik
« Last Edit: March 28, 2020, 07:40:13 pm by Moes » Logged
Moes
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« Reply #35 on: April 06, 2020, 11:07:26 am »

Hello

Things are moving forward  Cheesy  

I am done painting the chassis. I have assembled the gearbox with new synchromesh rings, a couple of new gear-selector gears, some new bearings, and used parts from two old gearboxes; so I am very excited to try it out.. I cross my fingers and hope that I have done a good job.

The gas tank i bought from a scrap Bagheera has been cleaned, and the fuel sender from my old tank has been refurbished and installed; and yesterday I got the tank in place, with the new tank straps  Grin

I have started out on installing the new brake lines, and I have been laying the last touch on my brake calipers installing new rubber boots; the only thing I am missing for the brakes are new brake hose.

I have also been cleaning all the old grease out of my CV joints on the drive axles, It had become a bit curdled/broken/old; so now I am changing the grease, and painting the axles.

The only hiccup lately has been that the console fixing the torsion bars too the chassis has been powder coated on the inside where the torsion bar splines goes.. And now the torsion bars can not get in, and I will some how have the grind the hard paint out of there Sad

Best Matra regards Frederik        
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #36 on: April 12, 2020, 02:37:10 pm »

Great to see - it's looking magnificent, your engine!!

Sounds like an annoying problem with paint, I hope you'll resolve that quickly.

It looks like you might be driving later this spring? Smiley

/Anders
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142
2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v
2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah
Moes
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Posts: 168



« Reply #37 on: April 16, 2020, 11:39:15 am »

Hello

I got the paint out, so far so good. And the engine is back in the car  Smiley

Earlier this year I bought an old gearbox from which I have been using some parts; with it followed a pain of drive shafts (type 2, 40 mm). The drive shafts were in better shape than my old ones (type 1, 35 mm), the CV joint boots was original and in good shape, the boots on my old shafts are some kind of universal CV joint boot, and not in the best condition. Therefore after a quick (too quick) comparison I decided to use my "new" type 2 drive shafts.. I have been spending quite some time cleaning old hardened grease out of the joints, removing old paint and rust, priming, painting and greasing up my new shafts, only too find out while assembling the wheel hub, that there is a difference between type 1 and 2 drive shafts (besides the shaft diameter), damn Angry

On the good side, I have found at complete pair of new CV joint boots for my old drive shafts, which will arrive next week.

My dad stopped by (at distance) with a lunchbox filled with the most lovely red bearing grease  Cheesy  For some reason he has a 10 kg drum of bearing grease in his garage..   

At the moment I only need too install the drive shafts, wheel hubs, brake calipers, bleed the brakes and clutch, and adjust the ignition timing, so it is getting close  Grin

I am very excited to try out the gearbox, fingers crossed!          

Best regards Frederik
« Last Edit: April 16, 2020, 11:46:09 am by Moes » Logged
Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #38 on: April 18, 2020, 05:16:11 pm »

Great work, Frederik! And I love the photos and the great look of your car underneath - it looks very satisfying Smiley

/Anders
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142
2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v
2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah
Moes
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 168



« Reply #39 on: April 26, 2020, 08:03:24 pm »

Hi

Thanks, Anders!

This week I got the new CV joint rubber boots (old stock, but they seem alright), and I got the drive shafts in place with the trailing arms and suspension.

Now I am looking forward to receiving new break pads, break hoses and banjo bolts, so I can get the breaks done. Then I will need to bleed the breaks and clutch, fill in coolant, adjust ignition timing, and that should be it, ready for first test drive.

I almost bought a new exhaust, but then I saw that politecnic have a stainless exhaust similar looking to the original. If it turns out I have done a good job with the gearbox I will treat the car with a exhaust from politecnic, if not, it must wait until everything is working satisfyingly.

Best redargs Frederik

   
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Moes
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« Reply #40 on: June 01, 2020, 06:17:16 pm »

Hi

Finally after one and a half month I received my banjo bolts for my brake hoses; I guess the first shipment got lost..  But now they are fitted and the brakes (and clutch) has been bleeded :-)

I am not sure if the old brake hoses was the right ones for the car; my local spare parts guy could not find the right ones, so I ended up with a set of brake hoses from a Volvo V40, they have the same length as the old ones, and have a 10 mm banjo fitting at one end; I just needed to remove a bracket on the middle (carefully).    

I have also made some "mudguards/inner fender pieces" out of a plate of fiberglass, which I have never had on the car before. I am going to seal them onto the car.

The new clutch feels much lighter to operate, and the overhauled rear brakes is not seizing up after the hand brake has been used  Wink

I still need the fill and bleed the coolant system and adjust the ignition timing, but then I should be ready for the first test drive.      

Regards Frederik  
« Last Edit: June 01, 2020, 06:19:33 pm by Moes » Logged
Moes
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« Reply #41 on: June 12, 2020, 09:28:13 am »

Hello

Good news and bad news..

I got the engine started and the igniting timing adjusted, so far so good :-)  But I will need to take the gearbox out of the car once more  Embarrassed

I can not get into the gears (without using to much force, except for reverse, which works just fine..) . I have changed synchromesh rings and the "locking gears" (the gears which compressed the synchromesh rings while speeding up and locking the chosen gear). I think my problem is the new reproduction "locking gears", I did notise that they have a very rough surface on the inside (fabrication grooves), and the old ones are of cause worn, but completely smooth. While doing the assembling of the gearbox I did try the gears, but I thought It probably just needed to get varm/used; but the force it will take to get it in gear is sadly way to much.

I will remove the gearbox when I get the time, and either use my old (not great) locking gears, or I will have to do a lot of searching after a decent pair of used locking gears..      

But all in all I still feel close to the finish now when I have got so familiar with the gearbox  Cheesy

Best regards Frederik

PS. I hope you are all getting some good quality road time in your Matra's  Grin
« Last Edit: June 12, 2020, 09:33:25 am by Moes » Logged
TELBOY
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« Reply #42 on: June 12, 2020, 04:17:46 pm »

sorry to hear about the gearbox! but this work is on another level..............outstanding.
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Matraman
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« Reply #43 on: June 12, 2020, 04:54:24 pm »

Hello

Good news and bad news..

I got the engine started and the igniting timing adjusted, so far so good :-)  But I will need to take the gearbox out of the car once more  Embarrassed

I can not get into the gears (without using to much force, except for reverse, which works just fine..) . I have changed synchromesh rings and the "locking gears" (the gears which compressed the synchromesh rings while speeding up and locking the chosen gear). I think my problem is the new reproduction "locking gears", I did notise that they have a very rough surface on the inside (fabrication grooves), and the old ones are of cause worn, but completely smooth. While doing the assembling of the gearbox I did try the gears, but I thought It probably just needed to get varm/used; but the force it will take to get it in gear is sadly way to much.

I will remove the gearbox when I get the time, and either use my old (not great) locking gears, or I will have to do a lot of searching after a decent pair of used locking gears..      

But all in all I still feel close to the finish now when I have got so familiar with the gearbox  Cheesy

Best regards Frederik

PS. I hope you are all getting some good quality road time in your Matra's  Grin

Looks like a superb job! It's been 25 years since I had a Bagheera, if only I could have achieved what you have achieved with it I might still have it!
Looking at that left drive shaft reminded me that I had a persistent problem with it for several years, it used to crush the left side CV joints every 2000 km. In the end I found that the first person to fit a new drive shaft for me on the right hand side had put so much force on the differential to get it in, they had pushed the whole engine over on its mountings. So this squashed the CV joints on the left side every time they were replaced. After much staring into the engine bay one day I spotted that the engine mounting bolts were in a different position than originally. Once that was fixed everything was fine. So make sure your engine is in the right position left to right!
Keep us updated on progress with the gearbox, good luck with it.
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Andrew
Moes
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« Reply #44 on: June 14, 2020, 04:01:33 pm »

Hi

Thank you for the kind words, Terry and Matraman!  Smiley

I will remember to check the engine position, left/right!

Regards Frederik
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