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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #66 on: July 12, 2021, 05:47:56 am » |
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Many Murenas had aftermarket sunroofs fitted (mine doesn't have one), so I doubt there's a standard seal to be found. I found a coat of silicone grease around the seal effective on my Espace. It even reseals after opening and I haven't had to renew it even after a few years. Also, remove the glass to clean the seal well. Dirty seals are the primary cause of leaking sunroofs.
About the reflection, when you have the glass off, fit solar film?
Some misalignment of panels is common. I think the door panels were fitted with the door frame already mounted on the chassis to ensure they were aligned when new, but they were rarely perfect. Matra improved this over the years and in the last Espace's it was always good. But this fitting process, however, means that every door is individually aligned to the chassis it was built for so if the door was replaced during the cars life the panel will always be a bit out of alignment. How much is the misalignment?
/Anders
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« Last Edit: July 12, 2021, 05:50:29 am by Anders Dinsen »
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142 2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah
Used to own: 2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v 1997 Renault Matra Espace 2.0 8V 1987 Renault Matra Espace J11 2.2
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Grapes
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Posts: 205
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« Reply #67 on: July 14, 2021, 12:43:36 pm » |
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Hi Anders, Thanks for the tips. The seal on my sunroof is probably damaged beyond repair at some places but I had either the brilliant or the stupid idea I might be able to replace the old seal by creating a new seal with either bathroom silicone (the stuff you use to close seams with between e.g. your sink and the wall) or gasket silicone. Just taking out the old rubber tube and just filling the grove with silicone and letting that dry before putting the window back in. In regards to the reflection, I'm not sure foil will work... there will still be light falling through hitting that back pane I suspect? I'm probably just going to block the window entirely since I mostly like the fact that I can open it. I do sometimes take it out entirely which almost gives it a targa feel. Maybe there's anti reflection foil I can put on the divider pane though! Or was that what you meant all along? The alignment isn't much but it's visible and now I noticed it it started to bother me  I attached a picture. On the driver's side it's the same but I think not just at the rear but also at the front of the groove. I checked pictures on the web and it's indeed not uncommon. Might at some point just fill the entire groove and paint a black line there. Or perhaps a stripe might already be enough to mask it. Not actually planning to do anything with it on short term unless it was an easy fix though. At some point I probably want to do a new paint job and maybe add skirts but for now my focus is to keep it driving as much as possible.
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roy4matra
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« Reply #68 on: July 14, 2021, 11:46:35 pm » |
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The alignment isn't much but it's visible and now I noticed it it started to bother me  I attached a picture. Actually that's a pretty good alignment Dan. You have to remember this is a hand built car on a hot-dip totally galvanised chassis, not a mass produced 'eurobox' made in steel with mm precision. Do you realise that the galvanising process causes unavoidable slight distortion? This is why you could not do this to a mass produced car. The fact that the chassis (which will have distorted slightly) is hidden by the composite outer bodywork makes it possible to hide those slight imperfections. However, there is one problem and that is the part of the door hinge that is fastened to the chassis is actually welded to the chassis and cannot be moved! On the passenger side it is just about perfectly placed, but the drivers side (on all cars - see original press release photos) was welded slightly incorrectly and so the rear of the door never did align correctly. So to lift the rear and align the door and the groove, they packed the lower hinge on the door fastening. If it is still too low, all you need to do is insert a little more packing. In fact with age, the door will probably have dropped a little anyway as per the rear of your passenger door, so it will probably benefit from a little more packing to bring it back to correct. Packing out the door hinge mounting is an easy job, and takes little time. But when you do this you must also make sure you re-adjust the anchor point too, otherwise the action of shutting the door will mean that the latching of the mechanism on the anchor pin to pull it down out of alignment again! Roy
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« Last Edit: July 14, 2021, 11:52:34 pm by roy4matra »
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roy4matra
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« Reply #72 on: July 18, 2021, 03:52:43 pm » |
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Are the bacs of the rear lamp units supposed to be bare like this?
On the early Murena, up to the end of the 1982 model year, they had a fibre cover that clipped into place behind the rear lamps. Replacements for these fibre covers used to be available in glass fibre - they may still be, but I haven't checked recently. For the 1983 model year up to the end of production, the chassis had metal covers welded a the back of the holes in the rear panel before galvanising, forming a solid rear cover for the rear lamps. (This was for any market model Anders, not just for Germany) Roy
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« Last Edit: July 18, 2021, 03:57:24 pm by roy4matra »
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