Dan's 1.6 repairs

[Grapes]

Hi again, can someone give me the basic steps to replace the valve cover gasket or alternatively refer me to the correct section in the manual. I've been browsing the A0 part about the engine but it's not written in a way that I can really wrap my head around it so maybe I'm either skipping over it or looking at the wrong section?

Additionally I took the carter pan off at the start of this week and couldn't find the broken tip of the oil stick so either it fell somewhere outside of the engine after all or it may have been flushed into the drip pan when I drained the oil. I will filter it before putting it in bottles to dispose of it just to be sure but I figured if I can't find it that's good news.

[Grapes]

Small victory for me. For now I hope to have successfully replaced the sump gasket and the rocker cover gasket. That last one was a bit of a pain because of the position of the four screws close to the engine bay wall so if anyone has any tips to reach them easier in the future I'd be happy to hear it.

While replacing the rocker cover I started to wonder if the inlet manifold (that's the thing that the carb is bolted on top of right?) gasket needed replacing as well. Looked like it hasn't been touched in 40 years and with the other gaskets failing I figured this could also need a change. Is that an equally "easy" like the rocker cover one?

Apart from that I still need to deal with the radiator fan not turning on. As I understood from Roy the easiest way to reach it is by removing the floor up front that the battery sits in. I had a look and is seems like quite an undertaking after all. I noticed there's some holes for wires to go through and then there is the battery itself. Am I right to assume that all I need to do is remove the rivets and carefully raise the entire floor, battery and all? Or should I disconnect things and take the battery out first?

 

[suffolkpete]

I think you should remove the battery, it's not much extra work, but before that make sure the connections to the switch are ok.  You can reach them from underneath the car on the left hand side.  With the ignition on there should be 12 volts on one connector and earth on the other.  Also, if the de-gassing pipe that runs from the top of the radiator to the header tank is blocked, the radiator may not fill completely so the coolant level never reaches the switch.

[Grapes]

OK so if I understand it correctly likely possible culprits can be:
1. Fan motor defect
2. Switch defect
3. Blocked degas pipe
4. Thermostat defect (This was recently suggested by a friend)

1 and 2 probably require me to disassemble the front floor?
3 and 4 can be checked in the engine bay?

In regards to the possibly blocked degas pipe: Any suggestions how to check this and if so, how to unblock it?

[suffolkpete]

You should be able to reach the switch from underneath without taking the floor out with a bit of patience and the right tools.  As for the de-gassing pipe, it's easy to check.  Remove filler cap and clamp off the overflow from the filler neck.  Remove the de-gassing pipe from the header tank and quickly put your finger over the outlet from the tank to stop the coolant escaping.  Then put your mouth to the filler neck and blow as hard as you can until clean coolant comes from the disconnected de-gassing pipe and re-connect the pipe.  Be careful not to swallow any anti-freeze.

[Grapes]

Oh brilliant that's an easy one. I think you or someone else on here has actually mentioned that before. It does sound very familiar.

[suffolkpete]

Probably was me, the first time I did it a lot of rusty sludge came out.  I think it collects in the lowest part of the pipe under the car.

[Grapes]

Does the oil filter unscrew counter clockwise like everything else in the world?
I couldn't get it off as hard as I tried...

[suffolkpete]

Yes it does, get yourself a chain wrench.

[Grapes]

Yeah, I will. I tried à three prong but it was too large 🙁

[Grapes]

Is there a way to manually turn the oil pump when I get the filter replaced so I can pre-lubricate the engine before I attempt to fire it up again?

[tonyz59]

just disconnect the  king lead to the distributor from the the coil. the engine will turn over and not start and it will get the oil pressure up and get oil to where its wanted before you fire it up.

[Grapes]

Oh clever! Thanks!

[Grapes]

Disassembled muffler and made enough room so I could finally get the old oil filter off and put a new one in. Yay.

Got new questions though:

1. I noticed the engine has a diagnostics port. should I find diagnostic equipment for this? If so, how can I find one? I assume this is an older type than in current cars?

2. I also notice in some engine bay pictures there is an air intake hose attached to the air filter housing. Mine doesn't have that. Where does it go to, what is its use, why don't I have one or perhaps better put, should I get one?.


3. Another thing I read in the owner manual is that there should be a gasket ring for the sump plug which also seems to be missing o my car. I don't see this item listed in the CarJoy webshop though (and preferably don't want to buy there any more since last time it took them 10 days to ship me the rocker cover gasket).
Should I get one? If so, what kind? One guy mentioned getting a copper compression washer. Is that what I need?

4. And I noticed this tube wasn't connected and noticed a connection point under what I think is the thermostat that didn't have a hose on. Am I correct this hose leads here and what are the specifications for it. I want to replace it since I think the one that is on there is too small.


Am sure I'll get more questions eventually but let's leave it at this for now.

[tonyz59]

the oil seal for the sump plug on simon site part no 01121 - 1 euro. just to add it's not a copper crush washer but a brass with a inner rubber seal. i think the hose at the expansion tank is the pressure relief and should just lead out to under the car .