| Home  Blogs Help Search Login Register  
« previous next »
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 14 Print
Author Topic: Dan's 1.6 repairs  (Read 47714 times)
suffolkpete
YaBB God
*****
Posts: 544



« Reply #30 on: May 21, 2021, 04:07:12 pm »

The hose is the overflow and the lower end is unconnected.  I think the connection on the thmostat housing is for a different model using the same engine.  The diagnostic port seems to vary according to the year and I don't rate your chances of getting the correct equipment.  I should just invest in a good multimeter.
Logged
Grapes
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 206


« Reply #31 on: May 21, 2021, 04:57:45 pm »

Ah thanks!
Logged
Grapes
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 206


« Reply #32 on: May 22, 2021, 10:32:53 am »

Any alternatives for the brass with rubber sump plug seal? Shipping is a whopping 20€ from. Simon which I find a bit over the top for a 1€ part  Roll Eyes
Logged
suffolkpete
YaBB God
*****
Posts: 544



« Reply #33 on: May 22, 2021, 12:52:30 pm »

If you know the size then it should be possible to buy the correct one from an independent parts supplier
Logged
Grapes
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 206


« Reply #34 on: May 22, 2021, 08:09:01 pm »

Ah, common parts then, excellent 😀
Logged
roy4matra
YaBB God
*****
Posts: 1199



« Reply #35 on: May 23, 2021, 08:51:52 pm »

Got new questions though:

One guy mentioned getting a copper compression washer. Is that what I need?

Yes all you need is a copper washer to help seal the sump plug to the sump.  Either a normal copper washer or a crushable one should do, but if you want a washer with the rubber seal around the inner edge, they are called Dowty washers.

Quote
4. And I noticed this tube wasn't connected and noticed a connection point under what I think is the thermostat that didn't have a hose on. Am I correct this hose leads here and what are the specifications for it. I want to replace it since I think the one that is on there is too small.


No, no, no!  Do not connect the overflow hose to anywhere!  That overflow hose from just under the radiator cap on the header tank simply vents down onto the ground, if the system was to boil over.  If it overflowed and you had it connected to a vacuum port, the coolant would get sucked into the combustion chamber and you would damage the engine, possibly bending a con-rod!

The port in the photo on the right which you say is under what you think is the thermostat housing, looks like it is an inlet manifold vacuum connection, but I can't tell exactly from your photo.  I'm not as familiar with the 1.6 as I am with a 2.2 engine compartment.  But you certainly don't want the overflow hose connecting to a vacuum port!!

If that is a vacuum port, then when the engine is started, that would be allowing air into the manifold, and should have a vacuum hose connected to something.  You need to check all the vacuum lines to see what is not connected.

Roy
« Last Edit: May 23, 2021, 09:00:22 pm by roy4matra » Logged

JL
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 254



« Reply #36 on: May 24, 2021, 05:05:03 pm »

Hi, nothing is connected to this - I assume that it is a common casting with the outlet not used in this installation.
Cheers
John
« Last Edit: June 02, 2021, 10:20:22 am by JL » Logged
roy4matra
YaBB God
*****
Posts: 1199



« Reply #37 on: May 25, 2021, 05:53:34 pm »

Hi, nothing is connected to this - I assume that it is a common casting with the outlet not used in this installation.
Cheers
John

Thanks John for the clarification.  If that is just an unused blank port, then you certainly wouldn't want to connect the cooling system overflow hose to it, Dan, as the coolant could not get out!

Roy
« Last Edit: June 01, 2021, 06:38:39 pm by roy4matra » Logged

Grapes
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 206


« Reply #38 on: May 26, 2021, 01:37:10 pm »

No worries, thanks for clearing that up!
Logged
Grapes
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 206


« Reply #39 on: June 01, 2021, 11:59:21 am »

Fan working!  https://imgur.com/a/KFGbUly

Geleased some air through the valve on top of the degas tube I think. I remember doing that as well when I refilled it previously but somehow it didn't work then but it did now and I also topped up the coolant a bit more. By shining a light through the plastic of the header tank I was able to see the level of the coolant and that was not high enough.

Also had the engine running a while to get to a temperature that would even turn the fan on and didn't see anything leaking anymore... At least not yet... 😅
Did not do a compression test yet and I noticed the revs are very low when I don't choke it. Any suggestions what to look for or how to adjust it? Just tightening the throttle cable?

Going to replace the battery and make an MOT appointment so I can hopefully start driving it again at least while working on the other issues that need to be addressed.

I also tried to make a recording of the noise I hear when I take my foot off the clutch but the file is too big for the attachment unfortunately so I will find another way to share it here. I did check the transmission fluid and that seemed to be fine.

Logged
tonyz59
Jr. Member
**
Posts: 40


« Reply #40 on: June 01, 2021, 02:26:42 pm »

Noise on clutch could be the slave cylinder. I just had the slave cylinder fail , at first the pedal did not spring back fully then I had a little rattling noise that went away when I depressed the clutch pedal slightly. When I looked underneath the fluid was seeping out from the rubber boot. I don't think the clutch fluid had ever been changed in the car it was almost black and mostly water by its viscosity !
Logged
JL
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 254



« Reply #41 on: June 01, 2021, 05:24:03 pm »

I have realised that even after reducing the image size in my post, the photograph is cocking up subsequent emails making them slightly difficult to read(too wide). Has anybody got any idea how I can remove the image, resize and replace it with a smaller one back in the post?
Cheers
John
Logged
Grapes
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 206


« Reply #42 on: June 01, 2021, 06:01:06 pm »

Noise on clutch could be the slave cylinder. I just had the slave cylinder fail , at first the pedal did not spring back fully then I had a little rattling noise that went away when I depressed the clutch pedal slightly. When I looked underneath the fluid was seeping out from the rubber boot. I don't think the clutch fluid had ever been changed in the car it was almost black and mostly water by its viscosity !

For me the noise comes when the pedal is not pressed and goes away when I press it.
My fluid was clear, slightly foul smelling and had a low viscosity... 🤔 Guess it may need a change? Definitely not black though....
Logged
roy4matra
YaBB God
*****
Posts: 1199



« Reply #43 on: June 01, 2021, 06:51:41 pm »

I have realised that even after reducing the image size in my post, the photograph is cocking up subsequent emails making them slightly difficult to read(too wide). Has anybody got any idea how I can remove the image, resize and replace it with a smaller one back in the post?
Cheers
John

I've sent you an email with a reduced one John.

Roy
Logged

Grapes
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 206


« Reply #44 on: June 01, 2021, 09:19:42 pm »

Transmission rattle. Converted the wav to a smaller mp3  Wink
Logged
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 14 Print 
« previous next »
Jump to: