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Author Topic: Let me introduce my maztra  (Read 115220 times)
Bart_Maztra
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« Reply #60 on: October 21, 2007, 10:22:26 pm »

I've made a start to put some things on my website.
Sorry, it's in dutch, but i will make a translation.
www.maztra.nl
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krede
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« Reply #61 on: October 22, 2007, 03:30:43 pm »

My god!!! that's nice work mate!! truly awesome. !!!

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michaltalbot
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« Reply #62 on: October 24, 2007, 11:44:24 am »

WOW! Very interesting project  Shocked
But, I wouldn't be the man who will return this Maztra into the original Matra condition...
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Bart_Maztra
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« Reply #63 on: January 05, 2008, 10:14:21 pm »

Website is now in (very bad) englisch.
www.maztra.nl
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krede
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« Reply #64 on: January 05, 2008, 10:20:58 pm »

Excellent work mate!
I think the Wankel engine is such a good /and brave) choice for a murena.!!awesome
How much does it weigh compared to the original one? is there anything saved?... and how much power do you plan on extracting from it?
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Bart_Maztra
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« Reply #65 on: January 06, 2008, 12:32:51 pm »

I don't know the weight of a 1.6 engine.  I've put the peugeot 1900 engine +gearbox on a scale: 165kg
And the rotary + gearbox but without carburettor: 170kg. Add some weight of a carb.

In the mazda the engine produced 133 hp. But now lots of horses are missing. I blame the carb and the exhaust. Now i am (very slowly) preparing fuel injection. Collecting materials (injectors, throttle body, fuelpump, regulator, sensors) and information. I also want to make a complete new exhaust system. Make a new manifold from thick wall 2' pipe and two borla silencers.
But first i have to renew all brake pipes.

Rotary power when the engine was in the mazda. Just before the start of the 1900 conversion.




And the matra 1.6 with two webers:

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krede
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« Reply #66 on: January 06, 2008, 06:26:08 pm »

You are not planning on tuning it any further then?..

I had my 2.2 with "S" cam and 45mm throttlebodies rolled when it was installed 2 weeks ago and it did this:



But it is still by no means what I would call a "fast" car..
I must admit that I had hoped it would do more... 149hp 180nm isn't particularly impressive for an engine of that displacement and with those modifications done to it.
But at least it runs and idles much much better then with the carbs...
Fuel injection Rocks! Smiley
« Last Edit: January 06, 2008, 06:31:30 pm by krede » Logged
Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #67 on: January 06, 2008, 10:17:26 pm »

I've read engine tuners say that 60-70 bhp per litre is attainable without much fuss, but everything above that is a pain and requires extensive cam tuning, porting, compression increase, balancing / blue printing etc. EFI can't produce more power than a well tuned carb, but it can do it better, and it's fine flat torque curve you have there, Krede! Smiley

Bart, it's a funny peak in torque your engine had near max rpm, otherwise it's extremely flat! Just like I remember I ride I once had in an RX7 Smiley

- Anders
« Last Edit: January 06, 2008, 10:19:56 pm by Anders Dinsen » Logged

1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142 (under restoration)
2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah
2024 VW id.buzz Pro

Used to own:
2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v
1997 Renault Matra Espace 2.0 8V
1987 Renault Matra Espace J11 2.2
Bart_Maztra
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« Reply #68 on: January 07, 2008, 06:44:16 am »

You are not planning on tuning it any further then?..
But at least it runs and idles much much better then with the carbs...
Fuel injection Rocks! Smiley

That's what i want.  Find the lost horses back and make it run sweetly.
If i want more power i need to do porting.
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Bart_Maztra
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« Reply #69 on: January 20, 2008, 01:57:46 pm »

Website update! 1900 motor conversion

http://www.maztra.nl



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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #70 on: January 20, 2008, 02:23:03 pm »

Have you put it back?  Grin
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142 (under restoration)
2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah
2024 VW id.buzz Pro

Used to own:
2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v
1997 Renault Matra Espace 2.0 8V
1987 Renault Matra Espace J11 2.2
krede
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« Reply #71 on: January 23, 2008, 07:42:38 pm »

Looks like a neat job..
Why didnt you keep it, and get a "fresh" murena for your rotary conversion?
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Bart_Maztra
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« Reply #72 on: May 26, 2008, 09:22:30 pm »

The matra murotary have done 8000 kilometers so far and still going and going.  Still there is a lack of  performance. I blame the carburetter.  Hope to solve it with injection.

Now i am preparing an injection system. On the previous 1.9 engine i had also fitted my own injection system. It is a megasquirt EFI. Now the wiring is still present in my car. It is only the hardware i have to worry about.
I bougth a manifold for a weber dcoe carb which i will sacrify for efi.  Drilled two holes in the runners and welded two injector bosses on it.



From some aluminium sheets i made an "intake box". On top of this box i put a throttlebody of a vauxall. On the side of the box i make fittings for vacuum for brakes, pop-up lichts, ignition advance, fuelpressurething. On the back i put the fast idle solenoid from the old 1.9 engine.



Just made a fuelrail from copper pipe and brass fittings.



Progress is slowly, but i am satisfied the way it goes. 
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krede
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« Reply #73 on: November 16, 2008, 10:48:24 am »

Quote
Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days
Any news Bart ?  Smiley
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Bart_Maztra
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« Reply #74 on: November 16, 2008, 01:16:28 pm »

Quote
Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days
Any news Bart ?  Smiley

Injection update!


The fuel pressure regulator is mounted. And i got an opel performance air horn.



On the back i put the (peugeot) fast-idle solenoid and the coolant thing which goes with the solenoid. That thing contains also the water temperature sensor. The air temperature sensor will be placed in the air horn.  The 2 blue fitting are for the brake booster and pop-up headlights.



Here's the fuel rail, made from 12mm copper waterline. The 12mm sockets is the right size to make 1/4" thread in it, so i can easily make fittings for the bosses and hoses.



Amazingly it fits! (well, just little clearance from the alternator)
Note the throttle lever, which costs me some headache. And note the fuel pump, fixed with cable-ties, where the coolant tank used to be.



A volvo throttle position sensor is bodged in position.
Note the neat wiring Cool (Hey, thats my profession Cool)


Now it's time to get it started and tuned.
It starts the first time! That's very promissing..... not.
It idles very rough. I have to inject lots of fuel to  keep it from stalling. Hmmm. Undecided
But when i blib the throttle, it sound very promissing! I even made a short testdrive and i was impressed. I spent a few days trying to get the idle right, but without succes.
Tuning an ecu from scratch is done step by step.  Don't start the next step before the current step is ready. Step number one: Get the engine started. Step 2: get the idle right.  So no use to continue if i don't get the idle right.

Spending some evenings on several forums learned me, that the way i put the injectors won't work.  The injectors are spraying a big part of the fuel against the inner walls of the manifold.  The injectors are BIG (680cc/min) so lots of it are dripping on the walls.
And at idle there is very little air movement in the manifold, so the fuel is sprayed in almost stationairy air. And the air movement is also going in two directions. It goes down at the intake-stroke, but when the other "cilinder" is doing the intake, it is causing the air movement to go up a little.

The best place to put the injectors is as close to the intake as possible. So it sprays directly in the intake ports.
But on the other hand, i know some cars which have the same manifold as i have, but with a DCOE throttlebody. With such a set-up you have the injectors even further away than i have.
I don't understand why a dcoe throttlebody will work, and what i made won't.

So it's back to carb. Sad
Which is a shame, spending so much time and money to it.
What's next? Skip injection? Improve carb? Improve exhaust?

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