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Author Topic: Common failures / preventive parts replacements  (Read 40825 times)
Jon Weywadt
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« Reply #45 on: October 16, 2009, 11:32:21 am »

Quote
Of course, the vaccuum is pushing down on the remaining body of fuel and not sucking it as I had thought because of the air intake whilst removing the filler cap.

No, you were right the first time Titus.  As the fuel is consumed, it should be replaced by air.  The intake of air you hear is an indication that this is not happening, and the vacuum created is trying to stop the fuel pump drawing fuel, although the pump is strong enough to overcome it.  My parts list shows a two-way valve in the filler neck near the top connected to a breather tube.  It sounds as if yours is blocked.
All cars that I have dealt with (at least later models) develop a vacuum in the tank as the fuel is consumed. Letting air into the tank creates a real risk of, at some point, reaching an explosive air-fuel vapor concentration. This can not be a good thing.  Roll Eyes At any rate, the fuel pump should be able to easily overcome the vacuum and provide fuel to the carb(s).

What I find most annoying is that the nearly horizontal hose, from the filler cap to the tank, results in fuel sloshing out before the automatic cut-off of the pump can activate. On most other cars the steeper angle allows fuel to trigger the pump cut-off mechanism before it reaches the brim.
« Last Edit: October 31, 2013, 03:30:53 pm by Jon Weywadt » Logged

Matranaut par excellence Cool
davidewanprice
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« Reply #46 on: October 16, 2009, 02:16:17 pm »

On my car there is no Vaccuum of air as the filler is removed ... On my new Fiesta there is a massive release when taking the cap off..
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JV
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« Reply #47 on: October 16, 2009, 05:42:15 pm »

What I find most annoying is that the nearly horizontal hose, from the filler cap to the tank, results in fuel sloshing out before the automatic cut-off of the pump can activate. On most other cars the steeper angle allows fuel to trigger the pump cut-off mechanism before it reaches the brim.

Indeed, I have to be very careful and even then the automatic cut-off is often too late.
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Jan Verdam
klumzer
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« Reply #48 on: June 05, 2011, 11:26:43 am »

Hello everyone,

After two years of hesitation I have bought a Murena 2.2.
Thanks for this great forum. It will be very useful for me. But I think I will have a lot of questions in the future because I have a lot to do on the car... I hope it goes back to the road at the end of this year.  Wink
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Jon Weywadt
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« Reply #49 on: June 07, 2011, 02:18:41 pm »

Hello everyone,

After two years of hesitation I have bought a Murena 2.2.
Thanks for this great forum. It will be very useful for me. But I think I will have a lot of questions in the future because I have a lot to do on the car... I hope it goes back to the road at the end of this year.  Wink

Welcome to the Forum and congratulations with your new Murena 2.2.
You will probably find that one of us has already faced, and solved, whatever problem you encounter.  Grin

Kind regards.
Jon
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Matranaut par excellence Cool
hru
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Murena Lover :-)


« Reply #50 on: July 09, 2015, 09:44:42 pm »

 Grin Grin Grin

I just learned that Murena 2.2 shares oil filter with a Citroen 2CV !

What do you think of that ? Shocked
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Matra Murena 2.2
Oetker
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« Reply #51 on: July 10, 2015, 05:41:59 am »

Yes, and I use it for several years in my 1.6 and 2.2
It's a bit smaller then the original but works without problems.


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I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different.
Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
Jon Weywadt
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« Reply #52 on: November 17, 2016, 12:24:22 pm »

Over time the center pin in the distributor cap wears down to the point where the pin does not, or barely, touches the rotor. When that happens your car will be difficult to start as the spark will have to not only jump the spark plug and the rotor points, but also from the center pin to the rotor.
So check your distributor cap once in a while and if in doubt change it. At only appx. 5€ it is a cheap fix to starting problems.
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Matranaut par excellence Cool
roy4matra
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« Reply #53 on: January 06, 2017, 03:54:34 pm »

Quote
Of course, the vaccuum is pushing down on the remaining body of fuel and not sucking it as I had thought because of the air intake whilst removing the filler cap.

No, you were right the first time Titus.  As the fuel is consumed, it should be replaced by air.  The intake of air you hear is an indication that this is not happening, and the vacuum created is trying to stop the fuel pump drawing fuel, although the pump is strong enough to overcome it.  My parts list shows a two-way valve in the filler neck near the top connected to a breather tube.  It sounds as if yours is blocked.

Yes, Peter is quite right, and as the fuel is consumed and the level drops, air should be drawn in to replace the fuel otherwise the resulting vacuum will oppose the fuel pump trying to pull the fuel from the tank.  This vacuum can be so strong that with the old metal tanks they would actually collapse inwards.  During my working life I have seen this a number of times and had to replace the tanks on a few cars.  In each case the car had been brought in with the statement that the fuel gauge was not reading correctly.  Yes the tank collapse had restricted the gauge sender from operating correctly!!

Fortunately the 'plastic' fuel tank fitted to the Murena is strong enough that it doesn't collapse inwards, but it is not good to have such a strong vacuum being created in the tank since this puts a greater strain on the fuel pump.  Since the fuel cap should be non-vented, to prevent fuel dribbling out though it and down the bodywork, there has to be another means for air to get in, and this was provided by the small hose connected to the filler pipe which needed a valve to prevent fuel spilling out when the tank was full.  So if you get a vacuum created in the tank then this valve must not be allowing air in and needs attention.


Regarding the list now at the top of this posting, the only real design/material flaws are the semi-trailing arms which corrode badly; and the fuses/circuit board and connectors, where the connector terminals crack reducing the positive contact to the board causing arcing which burns the contact surface.  Also relays should have been used between the radiator fan motor and switch, and the electric window motors and switches.

All the other items on the list are not really design faults but simply items that fail through natural wear and lack of adequate preventative maintenance.  So whilst it is useful to point these out to new owners they are not design faults.  Matra got most of the car correct mainly as it was a development of the Bagheera so had had a number of years prior testing and correction.

One item missed from the list is the necessary checking and periodic replacement of the engine stabiliser bushes on the 2.2 models.  If excess movement of the engine is allowed because of worn stabiliser bushes, then the exhaust will eventually break.

Roy
« Last Edit: January 06, 2017, 04:09:33 pm by roy4matra » Logged

Murenanimal
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« Reply #54 on: January 07, 2017, 01:03:46 pm »

Very good analyse and conclusion about the quality of our Murena's.
These get "only mechanically a little bit tired" by the years and so need once in a while some
nice mecanic treatments to be again reliable.
best wishes for a problem-free 2017 for all Matra-friends
Guido
from Belgium
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Colin
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« Reply #55 on: January 17, 2017, 12:21:00 am »

I think I would warn them about the cam shafts in the 2.2 as the game we have had getting new ones made, and the expense, have been a nightmare!
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Gib
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« Reply #56 on: January 17, 2017, 10:37:31 am »

I think I would warn them about the cam shafts in the 2.2 as the game we have had getting new ones made, and the expense, have been a nightmare!

Roy has made a very big effort in opening up an option for 2.2 Cam shafts. Search in this section and the Market place for more info.
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suffolkpete
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« Reply #57 on: January 17, 2017, 10:57:01 am »

If you already have a good camshaft and wish to keep it that way then check that the rockers operating the exhaust valves have oil feed holes in them (the inlet ones don't and they are often replaced incorrectly) and use a good quality oil and change it regularly.
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GP
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« Reply #58 on: January 17, 2017, 06:54:41 pm »

If you already have a good camshaft and wish to keep it that way then check that the rockers operating the exhaust valves have oil feed holes in them (the inlet ones don't and they are often replaced incorrectly) and use a good quality oil and change it regularly.

Hey Pete, you don't have to tell everyone about my stupidity!  Roll Eyes

However I got away with it without any problems at all, due to using a good quality motor oil.

Obviously motor oil is highly subjective, but as I consider the Murena engine to be a take on the Ford S.O.H.C. Pinto engine this is the one I use :

Millers Semi-Synthetic CSS 20w60

http://www.millersoils.co.uk/automotive/tds-automotive.asp?prodsegmentID=268&sector=Motorsport

5 litres can be purchased for about £36:00 on eBay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Millers-Oils-5-Litres-Of-CSS-20W60-High-Performance-Semi-Synthetic-Engine-Oil-/361357924104?hash=item54229c5708:g:ybEAAOSw3ydVwwdg
« Last Edit: January 17, 2017, 07:02:40 pm by GP » Logged
suffolkpete
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« Reply #59 on: January 17, 2017, 07:07:08 pm »

I've seen several with almost round cams, including some that were correctly assembled but not properly serviced.
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