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Author Topic: Air Filter Pan  (Read 7550 times)
Titus
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« on: November 21, 2008, 10:49:45 pm »

Whist removing the build up of paint on the air filter pan for respraying I uncovered original yellow text. It was very unclear and my photo skills lack somewhat. Does anyone have a photo of the pan as new?
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1.6 Murena
suffolkpete
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« Reply #1 on: November 22, 2008, 10:46:51 am »

Have a look at the thread "Air Filter Decal 1.6" a couple of pages back in this forum.
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #2 on: November 22, 2008, 11:12:37 am »

Here is a link to that thread:

http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/index.php/topic,1128.0.html
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murramor
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« Reply #3 on: December 09, 2008, 10:57:52 pm »

Whist removing the build up of paint on the air filter pan for respraying I uncovered original yellow text. It was very unclear and my photo skills lack somewhat. Does anyone have a photo of the pan as new?

I have just finished restoring my air cleaner.  I removed the paint and rust using an electric current and a caustic soda bath. (I can elaborate if anyone is interested or doesn't know of this method).  I then had it powder coated and created a sticker using a free Photoshop type program and had it printed using a local sign shop.

Here is the result
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Ron Murrell
Sydney, Australia
Titus
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« Reply #4 on: December 09, 2008, 11:51:48 pm »

A great result Ron,

I would be very interested in your removal process if you care the explain.
I spent hours stripping the paint with Nitomorse from my pan, with not perfect results. It would only go so far. In the end I finished it with many coats of primer and several top coats of satin black can spray paint. Not a bad result in the end but perfection is always the preferable aim.

Were you able to find out whether it was LC or LG on the text. I notice you settled on LC.

Also could you explain why you need to make a sticker first. Would it not be possible to supply the sign shop with the image only or am I misunderstanding the process. My computer skills lack somewhat.

Thanks for the input.

Titus.
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1.6 Murena
murramor
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« Reply #5 on: December 10, 2008, 07:01:11 am »


I would be very interested in your removal process if you care the explain.
I spent hours stripping the paint with Nitomorse from my pan, with not perfect results. It would only go so far. In the end I finished it with many coats of primer and several top coats of satin black can spray paint. Not a bad result in the end but perfection is always the preferable aim.

Briefly for cleaning objects made of steel, I have a 55 litre plastic rubbish bin which is filled with a solution of caustic soda and water. (I don't think that the strength of the solution has to be exact - I just dissolve a small container full).  I have a few steel electrodes, partially submerged and fixed to about an eighth of the circumference of the bin.  I hang the object to be cleaned from a crossbar using a wire coat hanger or similar.  Using a set of jumper leads, I attach the positive terminal of a car battery to the outer electrodes and the negative to the crossbar from which the part is suspended.  The solution should start bubbling and over the course of an hour or two the paint should come off the object and all rust should turn black.  You can adjust the strength of the reaction by varying the surface area of the positive electrodes.  As long as the object being cleaned is steel, it can be left in the solution indefinitely without harm. 

This is a rough outline - there are much better descriptions of the process on the net.



Were you able to find out whether it was LC or LG on the text. I notice you settled on LC.

I got no responses to that particular question so I just made a decision on the basis that nobody would ever know!

Also could you explain why you need to make a sticker first. Would it not be possible to supply the sign shop with the image only or am I misunderstanding the process. My computer skills lack somewhat.
I explained badly - I just made a JPG file for the sign shop.
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Ron Murrell
Sydney, Australia
suffolkpete
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« Reply #6 on: December 10, 2008, 08:38:02 am »

The process is similar to that described in Practical Classics recently, it can be used for stripping rust from all metal parts.  A quick Google shows that Lautrette filters are still available, though I wasn't able to find an image of their logo.  Perhaps someone else has one of thier products.
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suffolkpete
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« Reply #7 on: December 10, 2008, 10:29:08 am »

Quote
Were you able to find out whether it was LC or LG on the text. I notice you settled on LC.

After a further search, I can confirm that it's neither a C nor a G but an F.
http://www.wipo.int/ipdl/en/madrid/key.jsp?KEY=688995
Sad of me, I know.

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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #8 on: December 10, 2008, 04:02:51 pm »

Sad of me, I know.

Then, that will be the little charming detail which will show that you have done your outmost to restore the car to originality, it is *not* just a car which was kept in a store since it was new Wink

- Anders
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murramor
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« Reply #9 on: December 10, 2008, 09:57:32 pm »

Quote
Were you able to find out whether it was LC or LG on the text. I notice you settled on LC.

After a further search, I can confirm that it's neither a C nor a G but an F.
http://www.wipo.int/ipdl/en/madrid/key.jsp?KEY=688995


Devastating but I'll get over it in time, I suppose!
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Ron Murrell
Sydney, Australia
Titus
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« Reply #10 on: December 30, 2008, 08:02:36 pm »

Using Ron's original and taking Peter's well researched 'LF' I have modified the pan sticker. I see that Ron eventually put an accent on 'PIECE' following the Spyros input(not sure how to do this yet).

Could any of our French speaking friends confirm that Rons final result, excluding the 'LF' rosette, is correctly accented, spaced and spelt please? That is the one he posts earlier on his filter pan excluding my modified 'LF' rosette logo.

When I have the accents correct I will get some made up, 5 or so maybe. Anybody wanting one at cost let me know. I'll do it anyway for my own 1.6.

Thanks Ron, Peter, Spyros.

Happy New Year all.
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1.6 Murena
suffolkpete
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« Reply #11 on: December 30, 2008, 08:57:20 pm »

I'd be interested in one.  Your immaculately sprayed filter has spurred me on to do the same when I've done the gearbox  Cry.  The text looks pretty good to me, though I'm not sure of the meaning of "EL 1958".
Slightly off topic, I dug the spare filter out of my spares stock with the intention of doing it up and then swapping it with the one on the car, but I've noticed the lid has two circular patterns of holes, roughly above the carburettor barrels, which my present one doesn't have.  It looks as if it was manufactured like that.  Does anyone know what this is about?  Left uncovered, they would allow air to be drawn in, by-passing the filter, which doesn't seem right to me.
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JV
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« Reply #12 on: December 31, 2008, 10:15:07 am »

I think it has to be "pièce" instead of "piece", just as it was on the first one above, but I am not a Frenchman.

Jan
« Last Edit: December 31, 2008, 10:17:03 am by JV » Logged

Jan Verdam
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« Reply #13 on: January 01, 2009, 09:48:26 pm »

Hello Titus

I would be interested in one of the stickers, when have more info please let me know.

Regards
John
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Titus
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« Reply #14 on: April 02, 2009, 11:01:47 pm »

The car has been off the road for a few weeks whilst having the trailing arms refurbed. In the meantime, a final result on the pan decal has been done. Look forward to seeing some of you at the MEC UK meeting this Sunday in Norfolk. I'll bring some transfers if anybody is interested.

I'll post an update for others after the input I get this weekend. Although it seems correct and original. Thanks Ron and Peter.

Titus.
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1.6 Murena
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