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Author Topic: Murena 1.6 engine mods  (Read 19908 times)
Oskar
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Posts: 280



« Reply #30 on: May 08, 2008, 11:42:04 pm »

No
its called 505 turbo injection
but its aint as good as it sounds  (ive owned 3 and 2 went to scrapyard  Roll Eyes)
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peugeot 205 gti
murena 1.6
Waldo
Sr. Member
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Posts: 187

Diesel power :o)


« Reply #31 on: May 09, 2008, 08:35:08 am »

Hello Oskar,

You mention upgraded brakes to get the swedish approval, I guess this is only needed if the engine power is increased?

I'm installing a 90 hp HDI engine instead of the 90 hp 1.6 petrol!

If I later decide to upgrade the engine that's another story...  Lips Sealed
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Oskar
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Posts: 280



« Reply #32 on: May 10, 2008, 11:22:33 am »

in sweden we are only allowed for 10% increase in torque Angry

but modifying the complete brakesystem makes the car "changed" and needs to be registerd. There comes the new rules in.  but its not for sure they allow an engine at 150kw just because the brakes are changed.

they might not find it enough strong in chassie to acommodate all horses.

I thought you had the same torque limit as we  Huh
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peugeot 205 gti
murena 1.6
Waldo
Sr. Member
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Posts: 187

Diesel power :o)


« Reply #33 on: May 22, 2008, 11:47:58 am »

No... strangely enough the danish car inspection only care about kw! Which is great when you are considering a Diesel engine  Grin

How do they decide if the brakes are strong enough? As far as i know the standard Murena brakes can lock up all wheels, even on dry roads... And correct me if I'm wrong, but upgraded brakes won't help much when the friction between tires and ground is the limiting factor...
Well overheating could be an issue that will improve with upgraded brakes, could be the reason?

By the way, does anyone know if it's possible to install the rear brakes from the 2.2 on the 1.6 trailing arms?

And a short update on my project... Exhaust is know mounted, the system is build with the orig. cat and a backbox from a Volvo 740, which was the best suited box I could find in Biltema  Wink
It took me a looong time to get the system fitted correctly, with custom made rubber mounts aso but it fits nicely now  Smiley

Perhaps you guys can help decide the best position for the air filter (intake)... For now I will be running a standard setup with an aftermarket air filter, but I need to find a good location so I get a good flow and if possible rather cold air!
Later I'm going to install an intercooler (probably water cooled) and oil cooler to allow some tuning.
I'm aiming for 140 hp and >300 Nm... should be fun  Grin
« Last Edit: May 22, 2008, 11:49:41 am by Waldo » Logged
krede
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Posts: 1166



« Reply #34 on: May 22, 2008, 04:39:19 pm »

Quote
No... strangely enough the danish car inspection only care about kw! Which is great when you are considering a Diesel engine  Grin
SysssshhhH!! they might hear you!!

Quote
overheating could be an issue that will improve with upgraded brakes, could be the reason?

I think you are right about that..
Though in theory standard brakes should be adequate for ANY modification as long as you are not increasing the weight of the car.... the logic being, that ,the fact that your car has more power, doesn't give you the right do drive any more any faster then you would had your car been stock spec.

Quote
By the way, does anyone know if it's possible to install the rear brakes from the 2.2 on the 1.6 trailing arms?
If you do, make sure to "upgrade" the entire braking system to 2.2 spec.

Quote
And a short update on my project... Exhaust is know mounted, the system is build with the orig. cat and a backbox from a Volvo 740, which was the best suited box I could find in Biltema  Wink
It took me a looong time to get the system fitted correctly, with custom made rubber mounts aso but it fits nicely now  Smiley

Perhaps you guys can help decide the best position for the air filter (intake)... For now I will be running a standard setup with an aftermarket air filter, but I need to find a good location so I get a good flow and if possible rather cold air!
Later I'm going to install an intercooler (probably water cooled) and oil cooler to allow some tuning.
I'm aiming for 140 hp and >300 Nm... should be fun  Grin

Yahh yah yah yah... WE WANT PICTURES!!  Wink
 
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #35 on: May 22, 2008, 04:46:59 pm »

How do they decide if the brakes are strong enough? As far as i know the standard Murena brakes can lock up all wheels, even on dry roads... And correct me if I'm wrong, but upgraded brakes won't help much when the friction between tires and ground is the limiting factor...
Well overheating could be an issue that will improve with upgraded brakes, could be the reason?

The only reason to upgrade to larger brakes is to avoid overheating. If brakes were cooled with indefinite sources of liquid nitrogen or something similar, we could do with bicycle brake discs on our cars!



According to the law of dry friction, the amount of braking is effected only by the load on the brake pads and a magic number called the 'coefficient of friction'. That number is a constant (in basic physics class at least!), specific to the materials in contact with each other.

In reality it's a lot more complex!



And you are spot on when you are touching the subject of overheating. The problem is the constant, which changes with temperature. And when the surface temperature of the disc reaches 1000 degrees or more, the disc is no longer solid steel! Cheesy

But in your case, I don't think you should worry. As you mention, the Murena brakes are sufficient, and if you use EBC green stuff pads you will have excellent braking efficiency and unless you are doing a very hard race, you won't have any problems. This is where bhp is more important than torque: bhp determines your speed, which will be the speed you will be braking from - acceleration in the low revolutions means little to how much brake effect you need. It just makes you accelerate quicker out of the corners Grin

And the MoT guys won't worry either as the bhp number is unchanged with the new engine.

Quote
By the way, does anyone know if it's possible to install the rear brakes from the 2.2 on the 1.6 trailing arms?

No, I think the caliper mount points will be wrong.

Quote
And a short update on my project... Exhaust is know mounted, the system is build with the orig. cat and a backbox from a Volvo 740, which was the best suited box I could find in Biltema  Wink
It took me a looong time to get the system fitted correctly, with custom made rubber mounts aso but it fits nicely now  Smiley

Congratulations! When I pass the exhaust section in Biltema, I always get the "I want to build something out of these things!" feeling Cheesy

Quote
Perhaps you guys can help decide the best position for the air filter (intake)... For now I will be running a standard setup with an aftermarket air filter, but I need to find a good location so I get a good flow and if possible rather cold air!

Above the gearbox facing rearwards, as we have it on the 2.2's.

Quote
Later I'm going to install an intercooler (probably water cooled) and oil cooler to allow some tuning.
I'm aiming for 140 hp and >300 Nm... should be fun  Grin

Sounds reasonable - and fun! Cheesy

- Anders
« Last Edit: May 22, 2008, 04:49:16 pm by Anders Dinsen » Logged

'82 Murena 2.2 prep 142
'01 Grand Espace 24v
'08 Smart Fortwo 0,8 cdi
Waldo
Sr. Member
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Posts: 187

Diesel power :o)


« Reply #36 on: May 22, 2008, 09:32:00 pm »

Hmm... well I guess you're right Anders about the air intake!

I was considering a more simpel location, low in the rear right hand corner (because my turbo is facing this direction), but in wet conditions that won't be very good I guess  Wink

Some more construction work for me...  Grin
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