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Author Topic: Engine problems, 3.0 V6 - 1999  (Read 17135 times)
Trolkar
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« Reply #30 on: May 15, 2010, 01:34:19 pm »

I have a spare map sensor for you if you want to try, but if the Renault mechanics don't get an error from it, I doubt it's the reason.

/Anders

Hmm... What about the "front water temperature sensor" - That was causing the engine to just stop, and afterwards hard to start. - Here, the computer don't gave an error... But you was right! - Changing the sensor, and that error was gone...
Could it be the same at this point?
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'99 Renault Grand Espace 3.0 V6-24v
'97 Mitsubishi Galant Wagon 2.5 V6-24v
Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #31 on: May 15, 2010, 01:45:16 pm »

Quote
Hmm... What about the "front water temperature sensor" - That was causing the engine to just stop, and afterwards hard to start. - Here, the computer don't gave an error... But you was right! - Changing the sensor, and that error was gone...
Could it be the same at this point?

Sure, the computer can only tell about errors which are obvious to it. I'd think, however, that a MAP sensor fault would be easier to detect than a sensor mis-read.

Could there be any air leaks in the manifold? You must have had it off the engine a few times now.

But since you've been through literally everything, I think you need to check the valve timing. You say the timing belt has been checked, but are you certain the timing is right? It is easy to get it wrong if the engine wasn't taken out when the belt was replaced, since it's not possible to lock the cams with the engine still in-situ.

I know of at least one case, where this has been a problem. And that had even been serviced by Renault. There's no easy way to do the check, I'm afraid, except to take the engine out and redo the belt.

Colour of the tips of the plugs may give an indication, though. There are seperate cams front and rear banks, so one could be right and the other wrong, so you need to check all six. Mark the plugs where they come from and take good photos of the tips with a good camera able to focus in close distance - it might tell us something.

The car I mentions above was fixed by Autohjørnet in Espergærde. Their mechanic Torben might be able to recognise the problem if he takes your car for a test drive.

/Anders
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'82 Murena 2.2 prep 142
'01 Grand Espace 24v
'08 Smart Fortwo 0,8 cdi
renaultbiler
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« Reply #32 on: May 15, 2010, 05:51:00 pm »

Hmm.. Haven't seen that. - Do you have a picture, or a guidance? - It is damm hard to reach and see the back of the engine.
http://renaultbiler.no/forum/postgallery.php?pid=3924&filename=008.jpg
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1980 Alpine A-310 w/GTA 2.5 V6 Turbo
2000 Grand Espace V6 24v Initiale: http://www.renaultbiler.no/forum/viewtopic.php?id=2529
2000 Scenic RXi 2.0 16v IDE aut DP0: http://www.renaultbiler.no/forum/viewtopic.php?id=3751
1982 R20TX 2.2
Service Online: www.servicehefte.net/servdata/?cid=qqkX
Trolkar
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« Reply #33 on: May 22, 2010, 10:20:09 pm »

Hmm.. Haven't seen that. - Do you have a picture, or a guidance? - It is damm hard to reach and see the back of the engine.
http://renaultbiler.no/forum/postgallery.php?pid=3924&filename=008.jpg

A brand new "non Renault" but Bosch has been mounted... No difference...
The engine dosen't hesitate that much when the weather is hot... - Above 22 Celcius.
But is is "slow" when accelerating. The first 1 or 2 sec, it sounds like the engine is "choked"
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'99 Renault Grand Espace 3.0 V6-24v
'97 Mitsubishi Galant Wagon 2.5 V6-24v
Trolkar
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Posts: 82



« Reply #34 on: May 29, 2010, 08:53:54 am »

Hi too all!

Almost every electrical connections on the engine is now cleaned and "Silicon-Greasy".

Result? - Absolute nore more "hesitating" and "shaky drive. - But i still don't know where the power is.
0-96 km/t takes about 25 sec. (Speeder fully pressed down, but the kick down is not pressed)

http://188.183.6.22/Troels/0-100.mp4

Any good advice? - There are NO errors on the computer.

This video shows a test drive without any exchaust at all. (An old cat is "cut" 2 cm after the lamdba sond) an the engine is still exstremly slow in the "buttom" - After about 4-5000 rpm (I think) the engine starts to move...

http://188.183.6.22/Troels/Test.mp4

Please help me!!!! - ANY, and I do meen ANY respons is needed!
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'99 Renault Grand Espace 3.0 V6-24v
'97 Mitsubishi Galant Wagon 2.5 V6-24v
Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #35 on: May 29, 2010, 06:10:36 pm »

Great to hear your engine is running better!

Try pushing the throttle to the bottom, including the kick-down button... if you don't tell the engine and geargox to go FAST, then it won't. The engine/gearbox is generally tuned for comfortable driving, except if you hit the "3" button on the gearbox and/or use the kick-down button liberally. That should allow it to spring to life!!

/Anders
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'82 Murena 2.2 prep 142
'01 Grand Espace 24v
'08 Smart Fortwo 0,8 cdi
Trolkar
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Posts: 82



« Reply #36 on: May 30, 2010, 09:08:01 am »

Great to hear your engine is running better!

Try pushing the throttle to the bottom, including the kick-down button..

That only results in a engine that stalls.
In "N" it "chokes" and then takes the throttle slowly, but in "D" the engine just stall.
When driving in "1" and just cruising (Engine in idle, speed around 4-6 km/t) and then quickly pressing the throttle more than 80% down (Slightly before the "kickdown" the engine stalls.
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'99 Renault Grand Espace 3.0 V6-24v
'97 Mitsubishi Galant Wagon 2.5 V6-24v
renaultbiler
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« Reply #37 on: May 30, 2010, 11:06:00 am »

lack of air or lack of fuel....or possible it gets foreign air from a faulty gasket or something, did this occur after replacing spark plugs ? Try spraying start spray on different places around the manifoil to see if the engine idles up
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1980 Alpine A-310 w/GTA 2.5 V6 Turbo
2000 Grand Espace V6 24v Initiale: http://www.renaultbiler.no/forum/viewtopic.php?id=2529
2000 Scenic RXi 2.0 16v IDE aut DP0: http://www.renaultbiler.no/forum/viewtopic.php?id=3751
1982 R20TX 2.2
Service Online: www.servicehefte.net/servdata/?cid=qqkX
Anders Dinsen
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Posts: 2822



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« Reply #38 on: May 30, 2010, 02:48:37 pm »

That only results in a engine that stalls.

Shocked

I don't think the problem is an airleak if idle is good. Idle would be quite unstable with an airleak of any size. Have you checked the fuel supply (rate and pressure)? I seem to remember you had a fuel leak around the injectors - is the completely cured?

/Anders
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'82 Murena 2.2 prep 142
'01 Grand Espace 24v
'08 Smart Fortwo 0,8 cdi
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