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Author Topic: Changing glowplugs- 2.2DCI Espace III  (Read 2719 times)
Valfrid
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Posts: 39


« on: November 11, 2013, 01:07:27 am »

Anyone have advise on changing the plugs on an Espace 3 2.2DCI? Seen a few posts on this before here but with a thin wall 10mm socket (yet to be ordered and I can't seem to find for love nor money - help!) do I really have to drop the engine to get them out?
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roy4matra
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Posts: 869



« Reply #1 on: November 11, 2013, 01:53:30 am »

Anyone have advise on changing the plugs on an Espace 3 2.2DCI? Seen a few posts on this before here but with a thin wall 10mm socket (yet to be ordered and I can't seem to find for love nor money - help!) do I really have to drop the engine to get them out?

These should be easy enough to get out with the right tools unless the previous fitter overtightened them.  By right tools I mean that I use 3/8" drive hand tools (I only ever use 1/2" drive on heavy stuff usually with an air wrench) and all professional techs. have a range of tools (1/4" through to 3/4" drive) to suit the occasion.  A deep 3/8" drive socket should be enough to undo or tighten them.

These plugs have a taper seat so only need a light tightening to seal. (similar to the old taper seat spark plugs)  The problem with the taper seat spark plugs was most people over-tightened them and then you couldn't get them out!  Since these glow plugs are quite a small diameter if you over-tighten them, then when you try to take them out they can shear the top off leaving the plug body in the cylinder head and that is then a costly head off and machine shop job to remove the broken bit, so be careful.

Usually the whole job - test and replace only takes about an hour.  Less if everything goes well.  Also it is good to put a little lub. on the threads before you put the new ones in.

Roy
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Valfrid
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Posts: 39


« Reply #2 on: November 17, 2013, 05:04:07 pm »

Thanks Roy. Was one step ahead of you (not been able to get on the forum for a couple of days) and managed to get one of the glowplugs out and change with a long 10mm 3/8ths socket. The other 3 appear to have released clear of the thread wihout issue but I can't get them any further out - even carefully trying to extract them with long-nosed pliers - they are still stuck fast. I *know* they are clear/ out of the thread but I just cannot extract them. What's worse is that I can't get them back in/ tightened. I can only think there is corrosion (the same as the first one that I did manage to get out) that's stopping them coming out and space is so tight I just can't extract them. Any ideas - I really am stumped and after 4 hours of trying I just don't know where to go next but again, I am without a car which will again lose me more money from being unable to work. *sigh*...
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Valfrid
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Posts: 39


« Reply #3 on: November 17, 2013, 08:04:32 pm »

One thing I did wonder but fear it might be a tad dangerous (!) is using the compression of the engine to 'blow' the stuck plugs out - if I could isolate the fuel pumps first of course... Any ideas and fuses to pull?
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Valfrid
Jr. Member
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Posts: 39


« Reply #4 on: November 17, 2013, 09:04:45 pm »

Actual, if I lifted one of the front wheels of the ground, popped the car in 5th and turned the wheel by hand, that may well get enough compression to pop the plugs out...
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BrianM
Sr. Member
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Posts: 321


« Reply #5 on: November 24, 2013, 12:02:20 pm »

Now you have them undone are they any taller than before. My worst fear would be that they have stripped the thread in the head & this is why they are hard to get out. Put a roll of carpet between them & the bulk head, now crank it over & see what happens.
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markymarkmark
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Posts: 6


« Reply #6 on: May 04, 2015, 07:00:47 pm »

Yep, I do my glowplugs as soon as the engine doesn't start on the first rotation, about once a year. It always seems the glowplugs are faulty. They are so cheap I do the lot rather than test each one and replace the one that has failed. (Maybe someone can recommend the best glowplugs - I am using the unipart replacements).
On the DT (Guess the Dci is the same?) engine the glowplugs are a bit tricky to get at, so here are my tips (for what they are worth).
Undo the inlet manifold retaining bolts that then allow a tad of movement for more access to the plugs.
Put blutack into an 8mm socket when undoing the cable connector retaining nuts so you don't drop them.
Use a 1/4" drive & extension and 10mm deep socket to free the glowplugs and when putting new ones in, use the same 1/4" setup - that way you won't overtighten them.
Take the glowplugs out when the engine is warm, they are a bit easier to move.
Fit the new ones with a smear of copaslip on the threads - just a smidgen.
Stick the wire ring connectors onto the glowplug with a spot of copaslip to keep them in place while you stick the nut back in the blutack socket and fasten it up.
Bingo! Starts first turn.
I love my Espaces.

Mark
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roy4matra
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Posts: 869



« Reply #7 on: May 06, 2015, 01:10:38 am »

Yep, I do my glowplugs as soon as the engine doesn't start on the first rotation, about once a year. It always seems the glowplugs are faulty. They are so cheap I do the lot rather than test each one and replace the one that has failed. (Maybe someone can recommend the best glowplugs - I am using the unipart replacements).
On the DT (Guess the Dci is the same?) engine the glowplugs are a bit tricky to get at, so here are my tips (for what they are worth).
Undo the inlet manifold retaining bolts that then allow a tad of movement for more access to the plugs.
Put blutack into an 8mm socket when undoing the cable connector retaining nuts so you don't drop them.
Use a 1/4" drive & extension and 10mm deep socket to free the glowplugs and when putting new ones in, use the same 1/4" setup - that way you won't overtighten them.
Take the glowplugs out when the engine is warm, they are a bit easier to move.
Fit the new ones with a smear of copaslip on the threads - just a smidgen.
Stick the wire ring connectors onto the glowplug with a spot of copaslip to keep them in place while you stick the nut back in the blutack socket and fasten it up.
Bingo! Starts first turn.
I love my Espaces.

Mark

The only thing I would take issue with Mark is you should use Alumslip not Copaslip.  Copper and Aluminium are at different ends of the galvanic scale and therefore react with one another.  It's the same with alloy wheels to hubs - you should use Alumslip.  We used to get wheels that would not come off after Copaslip had been used since they would become stuck on and required a mallet to get them off.  Copaslip is great for steel but should not be used with aluminium.  Alumslip is made by Molyslip the same as Copaslip.

Roy
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