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Author Topic: Changing bottom balljoints  (Read 3514 times)
Drbagheera
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« on: December 21, 2014, 04:41:50 pm »

Hi

I am slowly repairing my 2.2 project and at present trying to change the bottom balljoints. Do they unscrew anticlockwise as normal or the other way? ( I ask as the tie rod ends are clockwise to unscrew). I am presently hammering them to try to unscrew them....
Thanks
Ian
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Oetker
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« Reply #1 on: December 22, 2014, 08:56:58 pm »

The ball-joints are normal thread.
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I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different.
Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
Drbagheera
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« Reply #2 on: December 22, 2014, 10:55:23 pm »

Thanks for confirming
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suffolkpete
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« Reply #3 on: December 23, 2014, 11:27:01 am »

They can be very difficult indeed to unscrew.  Give them a good soaking in penetrating oil.  If you are tempted to use heat beware.  My local garage proprietor tells the story of the time he was changing the balljoint on a Horizon.  He was applying heat when the joint exploded and propelled the swivel through the ceiling with considerable force.
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GP
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« Reply #4 on: December 23, 2014, 03:33:38 pm »

And here is a dedicated pronged socket tool on e-Bay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peugeot-Ball-Joint-Removal-Socket-49mm-ID-58mm-OD-/181113132758?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a2b2f16d6
« Last Edit: December 23, 2014, 03:35:56 pm by GP » Logged
Drbagheera
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« Reply #5 on: December 23, 2014, 06:09:55 pm »

Ahh, interesting tool. Is this the right size for a matra?
I have managed to undo the ns balljoint now after lots of hammering and some grinding. Thanks for the help
Ian
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GP
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« Reply #6 on: December 23, 2014, 06:21:16 pm »

Ahh, interesting tool. Is this the right size for a matra?
I have managed to undo the ns balljoint now after lots of hammering and some grinding. Thanks for the help
Ian

Yes this is the right Matra specific tool. 1/2" sq Drive ID 49 mm - OD 58mm

Do follow the instructions closely by clamping the tool on with the existing nut otherwise the prongs will bend:

The procedure for the use of this socket is outlined below:

Remove the nut from the ball joint, fit socket over the joint locating lugs into the recesses. Replace the nut and tighten to lock the tool onto the joint. Unscrew the ball joint using a socket or spanner on the remover. Fit the replacement by reversing the procedure.


« Last Edit: December 23, 2014, 06:34:24 pm by GP » Logged
jlg
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« Reply #7 on: December 23, 2014, 11:40:44 pm »


I bought the same tool a week ago. Mine is a bit too tight to fit around a Murena balljoint (the diameter is almost 51mm in the recesses) but should fit after a bit if filing.

I would not use it to undo a rusty balljoint though: I doubt it would be strong enough. It should come handy to tighten the new one in though!

JL.
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variator
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-83 Matra Murena 2.2


« Reply #8 on: December 24, 2014, 02:53:31 pm »

I've actually had to cut off the ball rod with an angle grinder and then weld a flat iron on top of the balljoints to get enough force to loosen it!
 This was on a Peugeot ..... which have the same type of balljoints.

 This is an opportunity if you do not get it loose otherwise.
« Last Edit: December 24, 2014, 03:20:53 pm by variator » Logged

2001 Saab 9-5 2,3T, 1981 Porsche 928, 1981 Honda cb 900 F, 1968 Triumph Trophy TR6R, 1986 Yamaha RD 350 YPVS
Drbagheera
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« Reply #9 on: December 24, 2014, 05:11:51 pm »

That was my plan b if i had no joy at all unscrewing it through the hammer method!
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Oetker
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« Reply #10 on: December 27, 2014, 02:07:47 pm »

That was my plan b if i had no joy at all unscrewing it through the hammer method!

I took it compleet of the car and hacmmerd it out on the workbench after a little heatng.


Herman
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I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different.
Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
Drbagheera
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Posts: 52


« Reply #11 on: January 12, 2015, 01:16:44 pm »

Both sides now done and front suspension all replaced- new tie rod ends, top and bottom balljoints , arb links and bushes, new shockers and a derust and lick of paint. Calipers cleaned up and inspected for use.
Lots of copper grease used!
Ian
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Oetker
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« Reply #12 on: January 12, 2015, 04:31:43 pm »

The front is ready now  for the next 25 years to come Grin
At least you are sure it's save
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I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different.
Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
Drbagheera
Full Member
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Posts: 52


« Reply #13 on: January 17, 2015, 10:15:01 pm »




Suspension rebuilt both sides.

Front of car awaiting repairs to the headlight mechanism

s

Cheer
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roy4matra
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« Reply #14 on: January 21, 2015, 07:54:19 pm »




Suspension rebuilt both sides.

But I'm afraid you have built part of it incorrectly!

The two rubbers should be one either side of the arm and wishbone, not touching one another!

Roy
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