EOW 1W MATRA 1.9 RESTORATION

[Lennart Sorth]

Also what do the numbers on the bottom right signify? was thinking year and build possibly? (80/4164)

Not that it explains the 80/4164 - but mine has the same numbers, and it is a year "D" (i.e. "1983") - see:  http://www.matrasport.dk/Cars/Murena/Gallery1/Med/mu_vin_02.html. Maybe the 80/4164 is some sort of design code?

Glad you sorted your clutch slave cylinder, - gently poked by Anders, I wanted to go and take a picture of mine, but forgot, and now it is too cold for such pleasures :-)

/Lennart

[TELBOY]

Thanks Lennart.
I just had a look at my other plate and the top numbers are missing! it could be the approval type?
I understand you have the same engine, 1.9 pug. Still not sure exactly what vehicle it came from, 205 / 309 / 505. But I am certain I have a BE1 XU 30 box. It has first reverse next to first and XU 30 stamped on the box. All 205 gearboxes I have read about (205 forum) had a cable operated clutch. The engine has 8 valves and a single carb making it a XU92C engine with 108bhp.
Yes the clutch gave me "issues" I thought it couldnt be right but that was how the old one was fitted! Think I needed a bit of reassurance before taking it off again. It was a right pain to fit correctly as it only just fitted which could be why it was fitted incorrectly. Definatly light at the end of the tunnel, Been doing a few little bits of trim today, have ordered my black / red "MATRA" floor mats, ccouldnt believe the price!!!! Got to fit the seats and find a steering wheel, Oh and I better check the engine goes!!!!

[suffolkpete]

If your 1.9 engine has a carburettor, then it came from an early 405 and would have had a cable clutch.  I had one of these cars new.  I can't recall what the gear positions were but I do remember that it had a cable interlock for reverse that required you to lift a collar on the gear lever to engage it.

[TELBOY]

Thanks Pete. Must be a different Box as it has a hydraulic clutch. BE1 XU30. Dont have to lift or do anything to engage reverse, just push it over and up next to first. I may put a gate of some discription in as it is a bit "wishy washy2 but may just need a good adjustment to the linkages.

[Lennart Sorth]

FWIW, my engine is a XU9JA/K from a Peug 205 1.9 gti, 8valve.
My reverse is also to the left of first, but Matraagic (Bristol, UK who did the conversion for me) created this lovely spring loaded bar which eliminates embarrassing moments at the lights :-)

http://www.matrasport.dk/Cars/Murena/Conv/P1.9i-8v-ls/Med/rev_spring.html

/L

[TELBOY]

Thats ace. I think I could.make.one of those

[suffolkpete]

I would imagine that any number of XU engine/gearbox combinations are possible.  Later Peugeots and Citroens used hydraulic clutches on RHD models due to the length of cable from the clutch pedal to the gearbox.

[TELBOY]

True.have done countless.hrs of research mainly because i want to change cam belt and water   pump as has been standing for ages. Thanks to the info i now.know it is either a 405gt or a.309 gt. Also need.dizzy cap.points etc. Think installing a 1.9 injection may be beyond me but may get a price.on it.as  i would prefer.more.than 104-108 bhp

[TELBOY]

The drivers side door card fitted! The Gold strip is where I removed a thin layer of rubber wind proofing. It shows (at the top) the original gold colour and then sticky adhesive. I will have to get another strip of this to hide it. I positioned the door card before re covering to make new fasteners that fix it to the door and re drilled the fixing holes. I used fasteners from a BMW as I thought they would be a good quality. I fixed the fasteners through the door card, ensured they all lined up and then re covered the door card. Think it came up well.

[Anders Dinsen]

That is immaculate! Wow!

[TELBOY]

Thanks Anders appreciate it. Have spent all day getting all the warning lights on the dash to work. Just one to go....the battery light!!!!!  . Can only find one wire coming from the alternator so havnet got a clue. Hopefully try to start her tomorrov (no petrol in her) and then fit the seats.

[Anders Dinsen]

Thanks Anders appreciate it. Have spent all day getting all the warning lights on the dash to work. Just one to go....the battery light!!!!!  . Can only find one wire coming from the alternator so havnet got a clue. Hopefully try to start her tomorrov (no petrol in her) and then fit the seats.

I think all original alternators had regulators with two wires: One for ignition and the other for the light. Other versions of the regulator only have the wire for the light on the dash, and the regulator is then initially powered through the bulb.

Good luck!!!

/Anders

[suffolkpete]

I've never come across a two-wire connection to the regulator.  The normal arrangement is for one side of the warning light to be powered from the ignition live and the other to the alternator.  When the ignition is turned on the the circuit is completed via the alternator and the current energises the field winding (the rotor) of the alternator until the speed has risen sufficiently for the alternator output to provide sufficient field current at which point the light will go out and the alternator will be charging.  Try earthing the wire at the alternator end with the ignition on.  If the warning light is lit then the fault lies within the alternator.

[TELBOY]

The only wire I could find that was connected went to the starter! The resistor behind the dash is still there and it works as I measured the resistance across it and it was 84.2 and I distinctly remember that the light has been working. I just checked out connection block under the bonnet and found this! so I am hoping that it is causing (or contributing) to the failure, so this will be todays job. LOL. I have also taken the liberty of ordering a small volt meter which I will fit in the consul I will be making. Think I may make half a consul as its neither a 1.6 so shouldnt have one or a 2.2 and has a full one!!! 

[TELBOY]

So I replaced all the connections but it didnt work, however my H/R/W now works!   I then moved onto the Grey connections which contain the alternator circuit and they were almost as bad. Replaced them all still no joy,   . Then onto the engine bay electrics (what a mess), eventually traced it to the earth wire from the alternator which I couldnt see without getting my head "right up there" which I found half a "crimp" on the end but no wire! Eventually found said wire hiding within a bunch of about 10 wires nor connected to anything. Re-connected and:- voila!!!!!
certain its fixed but when I tried to start her it wouldnt go!!!! After 10 mins traced it to the fuel pump which was "whirring" like a good un but not pumping anything, took it off and its def not pumping, so now waiting for a new fuel pump, but very happy:-