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Author Topic: Instructions for replacing front wheel upper and lower ball joints?  (Read 2884 times)
Jon Weywadt
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« on: October 13, 2016, 02:31:16 pm »

Is there any of you who have a set of instructions on how to replace the ball joints? Preferably in English and with photos/drawings. Huh
 
I have the workshop manual in German, but it offers only a sparse description and it says nothing about how to prep for the replacement, such as do you have to unmount thee torsion bars, sway bar, etc.
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Gib
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« Reply #1 on: October 14, 2016, 11:03:56 am »

It’s very straight forward just remember that the  assembly is under tension so this has to be released first.
Drivers side first so you can release the speedo cable and clean and grease the fitting.

Get the front of the car up on axle stands, wheels of so access to the calliper bolts is easier as you can turn the hubs unhindered.
Remove brake wear sensor  then the calliper  (17 or 19mm) and support don’t let it dangle on the brake flexi.
Remove the speedo cable retaining clip and pray it comes loose other wise plenty of penetrating spray NO HEAT you will kill the cable. Leave the spray to do its job and deal with it later.
Jack under the lower arm until the car is almost of the axle stands and the upper arm has clearance between itself and the top rail of the chassis leg.
Loosen either the top ball joint nut (16mm) or the 2 ball joint assembly retaining bolts (13mm) and push the upper arm up out of the way checking resistance.
The hub assembly has a Soft Flesh Attraction Feature and it weighs a bit so be careful with your fingers and head when it comes loose.
The resistance on the upper arm should be firm and equal through its stroke other wise bush replacement  and financial / mental torment is imminent.
Lower the lower arm on the jack until free. It will be held in place by the max stroke of the shock absorber. CHECK the car hasn’t jiggled about on the stands.
Loosen the lower ball joint nut and remove the whole hub assembly.
Replace parts as required.
Don’t worry about the ARB the relative pressure exerted by the imbalance between sides is minimal.

I can’t remember the bolt sizes as it was last year but they are there or there about.
Both ball joints come with new nuts so if you are struggling just cut them of. Plenty of Copper grease on reassembly as all joints in my opinion should be fully tight rather than torqued.

Removing the lower ball joint can be a nightmare and is best discussed when you get to that point as options are varied.
Sorry no pictures.
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northmurena
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« Reply #2 on: October 14, 2016, 01:24:41 pm »

"Removing the lower ball joint can be a nightmare and is best discussed when you get to that point as options are varied."

I totally agree with you Gib ;-)

I´m just restoring a complete car and i´m actually at the point to overhaul the axes. I gave up with trying to get the lower ball joint out. It is rusted so much and so i took it to the local smith. He had also given up, was just there after i didn´t heared from him since last week :-( He gave it now to somebody else, who should try his luck.

Any tips from your side ?

Regards
Kai 
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Gib
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« Reply #3 on: October 14, 2016, 02:59:42 pm »

I ended up cutting the lower ball joint on one side into many parts and then using a hammer and cold chisel.
The other lower ball joint came out with in seconds of looking at and still had plenty of copper grease in the threads proving its worth.
Sorry for the shaky picture.
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northmurena
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« Reply #4 on: October 14, 2016, 04:59:56 pm »

Thanks Gib. So it is like it is so often: the good old hammer is the solution ;-)
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Oetker
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« Reply #5 on: October 15, 2016, 07:56:46 pm »

Hammer and chisel and a bit of heating.


Easy to loosen.


There is a lot of wrong info about the lower balljoints.
Sellers provide wrong info saying Rancho Simca 1100 bagheera and Murena have the same type balljoints.
Only Murena and Solara share the same ball-joints the others have a smaller type.
Be shure to have the right type.

Herman

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I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different.
Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
Matra_Hans
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Owner of Bagheera, Rancho, Murena & Espace


« Reply #6 on: October 15, 2016, 08:12:58 pm »

Lower ball joints: I have not tried to change them, but it looks to be difficult, however I have a set in the store” just in case”.
However I have changed the upper ball joints a couple of times. You will need a special tool: In Danish it is called “Styrekugle aftrækker”. And you can get it from Biltema, Harald Nyborg, T-Hansen, Heyer etc.
Last time a changed an upper ball joint the special tool was not sufficient to get the ball off the upper arm In the first attempt I broke the tool !! I got a new tool, heat the arm a lot and finally use a new big hammer.
Hans
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northmurena
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« Reply #7 on: October 15, 2016, 10:08:19 pm »

@ Hans: i used a two-arms "aftrækker" for getting the ball-joints out. Of course there were sitting realla really tight. I sat the "aftrækker" under press and used heat. After short time it just made "blob" and the joints were loose. Have tried it before without heat, no chance.

@ Herman: do you talking about these lower-ball-joints: http://www.ebay.de/itm/Trag-Fuhrungsgelenk-Vorderachse-beidseitig-TALBOT-RTS-93-00204-/121977421965?hash=item1c666bc08d:g:~8AAAOSwRH5XKyRO

I have just ordered two of them after i got also the smaller ones ( for Simca 1100 etc. ) from another surplier.

Best regards
Kai
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northmurena
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« Reply #8 on: October 15, 2016, 10:18:27 pm »

That´s the "aftrækker" i used:
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Oetker
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« Reply #9 on: October 16, 2016, 11:16:42 am »

Yep thats the righ one 48mm and 14mm QSJ815(S)
If you buy TC93 from Delphi you have the wrong one.
Delphi right number is TC-200 but I never saw one.
Always verify with the seller if they have the right thread.
If no answer, don't buy.
Some fabrics copied specs from Delphi catalog so there are  several wrong items around.


Herman
« Last Edit: October 16, 2016, 11:55:07 am by Oetker » Logged

I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different.
Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
Jon Weywadt
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« Reply #10 on: October 16, 2016, 01:09:11 pm »

Yep thats the righ one 48mm and 14mm QSJ815(S)
----
Herman

So my set looks like it is the correct one.  Cheesy

It looks like there is a clip missing around the top, as seen on the last photo??? Are you expected to reuse the old one? Huh

Jon
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Matranaut par excellence Cool
JL
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« Reply #11 on: October 16, 2016, 01:17:01 pm »

You can use a rubber "O" ring for that.

John
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Oetker
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« Reply #12 on: October 18, 2016, 06:10:42 am »

Bought new as is but indeed a o-ring wil do it.

When buying upper ball-joints, buy them from the same brand.
Both on the picture were intended for Murena/Bagheera/Simca  but as you can see there are differences.

pic Richard

Herman
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I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different.
Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
northmurena
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Posts: 203



« Reply #13 on: October 18, 2016, 01:26:09 pm »

But same brand, same manufacturer, same surplier, same part-number is not evrytime a quarantee for getting exact the same parts :-(
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Jon Weywadt
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« Reply #14 on: October 18, 2016, 02:17:57 pm »

Hammer and chisel and a bit of heating.
----

Herman



i would prefer a propper tool.  Wink

Such as https://www.amazon.de/BGS-Traggelenk-Zapfenschlüssel-Citroen-Peugeot-5422/dp/B00E40LUF6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476792611&sr=8-1&keywords=bgs+5422
But would it fit, or does anyone of you know thee proper part number for a pin-wrench that fits?

-Jon
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Matranaut par excellence Cool
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