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Author Topic: Gear linkage set up 2.2  (Read 14407 times)
Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #15 on: December 12, 2019, 04:50:40 pm »

I agree with Herman. Turn the links over and they'll pop off the heads. Use a wrench to turn them. Unless they have been changed by an earlier owner, the links don't have locking pins.

Good luck!

Anders
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'82 Murena 2.2 prep 142
'01 Grand Espace 24v
'08 Smart Fortwo 0,8 cdi
matramurena
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« Reply #16 on: December 12, 2019, 08:35:45 pm »

I also agree! Mine got off this summer after I went a little too fast over a speedbump... Smiley

However, on Hermans picture you can see a hole in the joint wich is normally used to put in the locking pin. So it could just be that you have a pin sitting in there that is holding it on it's place.
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1983 Matra Murena V6 (AR engine)
2003 Matra Avantime 2.0T Expression
2003 Matra Avantime V6 Privilege
Matraman
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« Reply #17 on: December 12, 2019, 11:05:28 pm »

Thank you gentlemen, I hadnít thought about clips holding them together and couldnít see them from under the car. When I looked down from above I saw a clip on the joint I was stuck with. I pulled that off and the joint came apart (too) easily. I now have just about everything disconnected from the engine and am waiting for some dry weather to roll the car outside, Jack it up and see if I can get the engine out. Living near Manchester, it might take a while before I get a long enough dry spell!
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Oetker
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« Reply #18 on: December 12, 2019, 11:16:36 pm »

You can make the short linkages yourself with this.
M8
This also fits the headlights ball-joint at the front.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ball-Head-Joint-Rod-End-Bearing-M5-M6-M8-M10-Right-Angle-CS8-CS10-CS13-CS16-TK-S/293180657507?var=592049237334

The bigger ball joint at the end I ordered at Simon but I think it is universal to.

Good luck with removing the engine.
It's a h heavy bastard.
« Last Edit: December 12, 2019, 11:18:44 pm by Oetker » Logged

I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different.
Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
roy4matra
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« Reply #19 on: December 21, 2019, 12:34:08 am »

Good luck with removing the engine.
It's a h heavy bastard.

I have always found the 2.2 to be easier to get in and out of the Murena because the 1.6 lays over at such a large angle that when it is released from the mountings it is unstable and wants to fall over!  If you use a crane from above it wants to swing upright.  Neither is what you need.

With the 2.2 it is much easier because the base of the sump is flat and the engine will sit happily on a trolley or the floor. So when removing the engine from a 2.2, you simply undo and remove everything except the two mounting cross bolts, lower the back of the car almost onto the floor, so the engine is sitting on your shallow trolley, remove the two cross bolts from the mountings and then lift the car back up and put it onto axle stands (under the chassis rails).  It has to be high enough for the engine to be slid out from under it.  The whole engine & transmission that is sitting on the trolley, is stable enough to be moved out from under the car.

Putting it back is simply the reverse.  Roll the powertrain back under the car, lower the car right down almost to the floor, then insert the cross bolts back through the mountings, and then lift the car complete with powertrain back up and put the axle stands back under to support it.  It doesn't need to be as high this time, just a normal working height to finish fitting everything else back.

Roy
« Last Edit: December 21, 2019, 12:47:34 am by roy4matra » Logged

Matraman
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« Reply #20 on: January 06, 2020, 11:48:27 am »

Herman, I've also found that the L shaped pivot is too stiff, but I'm struggling to get it off. There seems to be a circlip hiding at the bell housing end of it, which I can't get to. Any special tricks to release it? I notice in your photo a tiny screw driver, did you use that as part of the trick of removing it?
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roy4matra
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« Reply #21 on: January 06, 2020, 10:49:19 pm »

Herman, I've also found that the L shaped pivot is too stiff, but I'm struggling to get it off. There seems to be a circlip hiding at the bell housing end of it, which I can't get to. Any special tricks to release it? I notice in your photo a tiny screw driver, did you use that as part of the trick of removing it?

The 'L' shaped arm becoming stiff on its pin is quite common, and prevents the correct side to side movement on the gear lever.

There is a small external circlip on top of a metal washer near the top of the pin stopping the arm from coming off.  A small circlip pliers shoud be all that is needed to open it up so it can be slid off.  Once off, you need to remove both rods attached to the arm, then work the arm back and forth whilst pulling it upwards to get the arm off the pin.  Remove the two 'top hat' nylon bushes, clean everything, grease it all with LM grease and refit.  Usually the nylon bushes are reusable, but if you do need new ones bronze bushes are available.

The side to side movement of the gear lever should now work freely, allowing you to get all three planes - 1st/2nd, 3rd/4th, and 5th/Rev.

Roy
« Last Edit: January 06, 2020, 10:54:51 pm by roy4matra » Logged

Matraman
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« Reply #22 on: January 06, 2020, 11:52:15 pm »

I've looked at the photo more closely and it's clear I don't have a standard L shaped piece on there, mine has a welded top on it where the circlip should go and I suspect someone has managed to get a circlip round the bottom end, near the bell housing, which is very difficult to get at. As it's not standard I will definitely have to get it off somehow and probably find a replacement. I hope the shaft is OK. Can that be replaced?
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roy4matra
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« Reply #23 on: January 07, 2020, 04:01:38 am »

I've looked at the photo more closely and it's clear I don't have a standard L shaped piece on there, mine has a welded top on it where the circlip should go and I suspect someone has managed to get a circlip round the bottom end, near the bell housing, which is very difficult to get at. As it's not standard I will definitely have to get it off somehow and probably find a replacement. I hope the shaft is OK. Can that be replaced?

I'm not sure I understand this as I don't see any photo that you have referred to, and why would you need a circlip at the bottom?  The 'L' bracket can only come off the top!  However, the pin is screwed into the bell housing casing, or should be, so if you can grip the top end sufficiently you might be able to unscrew the pin out of the bell housing to remove it and the 'L' bracket.  In fact the top of the pin has a slot in it which would have allowed it to be screwed in originally using a flat blade screwdriver   It will have been fitted with threadloc though, so it will be tight.  You can use the slot to try to undo it, but you don't want to to snap the top, so if it doesn't want to undo easily, be careful.  Use a little heat around the casing where it is screwed in.

Please email me a photo of your arm and pin first though, so I can try to see what has been done.

Roy
« Last Edit: January 07, 2020, 04:06:45 am by roy4matra » Logged

Matraman
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« Reply #24 on: March 15, 2020, 02:18:43 pm »

In the end I bent the arms of the fulcrum slightly upwards, then I could unscrew the whole fulcrum shaft and tackle it on the bench. There was no circlip at the top of the shaft, just one at the bottom, to keep the fulcrum clear of the bell housing I assume. The fulcrum was held on at the top by corrosion welding itself to the nylon bushes. To change gear the whole shaft had to rotate on its thread.

No amount of pushing or pulling or gentle heat would allow the shaft to come out, so i just had to heat it until the nylon bushes melted. There was no circlip groove left at the top of the shaft, so I cut a new one and found a circlip to fit. It now has new bronze bushes and is a nice fit on the rescued shaft.
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