Murena radiator removal - hints and tips?

lewisman · September 06, 2008, 03:14:52 PM

Yes. Fan is on the side facing the driver.

Just had a look at my radiator and I will be needing a new one too! I might take a chance on a C15 one on ebay just now....

macaroni · September 06, 2008, 04:38:27 PM

Thanks very much for looking. I had a brainstorm and couldn't remember how it was.

Isn't that a diesel rad? I thought it was the petrol ones that fit the Murena.

suffolkpete · September 06, 2008, 06:21:52 PM

That looks a good job, how about sharing the details of your rad man with the other UK members.

macaroni · September 06, 2008, 06:57:00 PM

Sure, Bryan & Sons, 165a Camden Road, Tunbridge Wells, Kent, TN1 2RF
01892 544635.

His shop is down a tiny alleyway, only just wide enough to walk down!

Anders Dinsen · September 07, 2008, 03:42:57 PM

Quote from: macaroni on September 06, 2008, 06:57:00 PM
Bryan & Sons

Excellent name for a specialist shop!

Thanks for posting the photos - nice work!

macaroni · September 08, 2008, 11:25:50 AM

Thing is, I've never seen a son there, only Bryan.

I got the rad hooked up and spent a good hour bleeding the system and I think it is fine.
No more bubbles from the bleed screw, everything gets nice and warm and the cooling fan cuts in, maintaining the temp at a steady 90degrees.
Just got to rivet the front boot back in now and the jobs a good 'un.

I'd always recommend doing this job "from the top" as its only a 5 minute job to whip out the front boot.

JL · July 30, 2009, 08:40:41 PM

When you are getting fed up with rubbing down bodywork the mind wanders to anything that may be more interesting so I also decided to get the radiator sorted.

The alloy core did not look too bad apart from the bottom where the lower fan mount was quite corroded. A local radiator specialist said he would recore the radiator with a conventional brass/copper core (my preferred choice) for £85.00 plus the VAT. He also replaced the top and bottom frames with ones that had captive nuts, I made up a couple of brackets and refitted the original fan.

I will now refit the radiator as soon as I have found some stainless steel wire to make a new cable for the headlight inhibitor mechanism. All more interesting than rubbing down that bodywork!

John

suffolkpete · July 31, 2009, 10:04:27 AM

QuoteI will now refit the radiator as soon as I have found some stainless steel wire to make a new cable for the headlight inhibitor mechanism

I would like to re-instate this mechanism on my car but so far haven't managed to find a car with it fitted and working to look at. Could you let us know how you get on, with photos if possible please?

roy4matra · July 31, 2009, 05:05:43 PM

Quote from: suffolkpete on July 31, 2009, 10:04:27 AM
QuoteI will now refit the radiator as soon as I have found some stainless steel wire to make a new cable for the headlight inhibitor mechanism
I would like to re-instate this mechanism on my car but so far haven't managed to find a car with it fitted and working to look at. Could you let us know how you get on, with photos if possible please?

It's fairly straight forward Peter. The bonnet lock mechanism should have a pivoting bar that in one position blocks the bonnet release from operating, and when pivoted the other way allows it to work. So first thing is - is this still fitted?

The cable goes from the lever that is pushed and pulled by the double acting servo that lifts and lowers the light pods. So when the servo pushes the bar forward, the cable is moved and the pivoting bracket on the bonnet mechanism swings around to block the release.

To take photos you need the nose/bumper off, and although my car has a working system the bumper is obviously fitted! If John has his apart, maybe he can takes some photos to post here.

Roy

suffolkpete · July 31, 2009, 05:48:21 PM

QuoteIf John has his apart, maybe he can take some photos to post here.

That was what I was hoping. I'm particularly interested in how the outside of the Bowden cable is attached at each end. From my parts book, they appear to use the 'W' shaped spring clips that are used at various places round the car but these don't seem to be easy to obtain so if John or anyone else has a source, or an alternative, I would be interested to hear.

Jon Weywadt · August 03, 2009, 07:37:30 AM

Quote from: JL on July 30, 2009, 08:40:41 PM
I will now refit the radiator as soon as I have found some stainless steel wire to make a new cable for the headlight inhibitor mechanism. All more interesting than rubbing down that bodywork!

John

Hi John.

If you haven't mounted the radiator yet, could you tell me its dimentions? I have not had mine out yet, but I am thinking of having it recored like you, or replacing it with a modern alternative, if I can find a match.
I am waiting to tackle this until I order stainless heating and cooling tubes from MatraMagic. What is holding me back is that they want as much in shipping cost, as the pipes cost.

So I am trying to find a way to get them sent to Denmark cheaper.

Oetker · August 03, 2009, 07:45:39 AM

Size is here.
http://www.webdealauto.com/m16/NRF/p40492/Radiateur_du_moteur_NRF_57013/product_info.html
Also click the drawing.

Anders Dinsen · August 03, 2009, 07:57:51 AM

Quote from: Oetker on August 03, 2009, 07:45:39 AM
Size is here.
http://www.webdealauto.com/m16/NRF/p40492/Radiateur_du_moteur_NRF_57013/product_info.html
Also click the drawing.

Hmm... nice price, definitely worth considering as a preventive replacement!
Unfortunately they only ship to France and Belgium

Oetker · August 03, 2009, 08:02:20 AM

I didn't ask if they still have, but this radiators are running out of stock with most firmes.

macaroni · August 03, 2009, 11:10:12 AM

I mentioned somewhere before that I had my radiator fully rebuilt by a guy in my town.

He used new cores and fins, using only the original ends and top.

He charged me £100 and it comes fully repainted. Its virtually a new rad.

If anyone is interested, please let me know.

Antony