rear fender removal

klumzer · September 25, 2011, 08:39:26 PM

I have not found any method on the forum how to remove the rear fender. It was said that it is very difficult and almost impossible but I want to have a good corrosion protection on my car so it was inevitable for me.
Today I managed to remove the rear fenders. It is really complicated but not impossible. Here are my experience:
First you have to remove the rear windows otherwise you have to cut the artificial leather inside. Next drill the rivets. Remove the cover of the B pillar. You also have to remove the rear bumper and the black plastic covers behind the rear windows to have access to some rivets. It is not so complicated. Then you have to start to undo the bonding connection between the chassis and the fender.
There are two different adhesive under the fender. The upper line is glued with a hard and very tough material which is very difficult to cut. (see photos, marked with red).
The other parts are glued with a soft material. It is easy to cut and not so sticky after 30 years. (marked vith light blue) If you managed to separate the upper line from the chassis you do not have to deal with the soft adhesive it will release the fender.
I used a cutter, an obsolete knife, a putty-knife, a hammer and some screwdriver to loosen the upper line. If you want to avoid cracks on the fiber-glass first you have to cut the edge with a cutter from the inner side on the full length. You have to separate the edge of the fender from the chassis. Then you can put the knife between the fender and the chassis and punch it with a hammer. You can use anything what is thin, sharp and a bit flexible. Do not hammer the cutter because it will break. You have to do it gradually, step by step to make the groove deeper and deeper. You have to be careful and patient. You can check if the fender is released with a putty-knife. It is flexible and can follow the bend of the fender. On the left side I was lucky and the adhesive released the chassis. On the right side some fiber glass peeled from the fender but it was not serious.
Above the wheel there is a metal plate riveted to the chassis. It is rotted but the chassis is ok. Before removing the fender I thought it is the part of the chassis and I was worried about it.
Removal took about 2-3 hours each side (without window and rivets).

klumzer · September 25, 2011, 08:47:07 PM

More photos...

klumzer · September 25, 2011, 09:07:08 PM

One more thing.
The foil on the side of the boot was destroyed because the top of it sticked to the fender.

Jon Weywadt · September 26, 2011, 11:54:43 AM

Exellent description and photos

It will make it easier for anyone who have to remove the fenders.

Good job.

Matra_Hans · September 26, 2011, 01:08:46 PM

Good job :-)
But not a weekend job :-(

Hans

JV · September 26, 2011, 01:34:04 PM

Thanks for your clear description and the pictures.

TELBOY · August 06, 2015, 07:16:41 PM

excellent information:- am in the process of doing the same:- just an addition, on mine it has three rivets at the bottom of the window which were obscured by mastic!.

krede · August 07, 2015, 04:46:32 PM

Great work. Hans and I once tried to do that procedure on a spare parts car, but had to give up

. I have recently wondered if perhaps a multi cutter with a scraper tool attached might be the way to go ?

murramor · August 09, 2015, 08:42:56 PM

I have recently removed mine and I basically followed Klumzer's instructions. The difficulty was entirely with the upper adhesive which is very hard. I first used a Dremel cutter to start a groove between the fibreglass and the chassis and then gently hammered a thin and flexible paint scraper into the groove. With a lot of patience I was able to separate the top section and the remainder of the soft adhesive was no trouble. I did damage the panel slightly in a couple of places but a fibreglass expert repaired the damage cheaply.

Now for the rust repairs!

TELBOY · August 13, 2015, 10:57:36 AM

Just finished removing mine. The upper part did not cause too much trouble however the piece near the roof / top of the door and from the bottom of the window through to the boot were difficult! I stole a couple of my sons guitar strings and it went through them like butter!

TELBOY · August 25, 2015, 06:14:46 PM

HELP:-
The portion of metal is missing from the bottom of the window, and from the chassis to the "fender" rear wing! has anyone got the dimensions of these so I can fabricate some?

?

Oetker · August 26, 2015, 02:16:49 AM

I looked in the manual about it but couln't find any info about sizes.
I didn't save the part from my breaker to measure it myself but didn't save the part because it was badly rusted.
Sorry, can't help you.

Herman

TELBOY · August 26, 2015, 08:14:03 AM

Thanks for the response Oetker. I think looking at yours I can make a replacement for the one below the window the other I think may be trial and error.

Oetker · August 26, 2015, 08:55:17 AM

I made that part from a roofplate.
It can stand more then 200 degree Celsius.

Mounted it with Pattex black poly kit in 2012
It's stil OK in my daily driver.

Herman

Jon Weywadt · August 26, 2015, 09:09:09 AM

Quote from: TELBOY on August 26, 2015, 08:14:03 AM
Thanks for the response Oetker. I think looking at yours I can make a replacement for the one below the window the other I think may be trial and error.

The piece of metal under the window seems to be added as an afterthought by Matra. It is not galvanised, at least not on mine. As a result there is very little left, but rust.
I think they added it because of road debris sticking up between the fibreglass and the chassis. I have plans to make a plastic inner fender to catch the debris. It should be possible and a better solution than making another rust prone piece of metal.

Oetker's pictures gives you a good idea of how to fix it.