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Oetker
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« Reply #31 on: April 30, 2010, 09:21:56 pm » |
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The Bridgestones came in some time ago but didn't have time to mount them before last week.. Had some tests on the dry. They are a bit softer then the Vikings I had before. I like that because the car was hard on the back with the old tires, and drove them at 2.1 bar t get any comfort. Grip in dry was impressive with Bridgestones on 2.5 bar. Didn't rain for a few weeks so couldn't test them in the wet, and now it is raining the car is not at hand. Will try that out later. In the mean time I had the chanche to play with some wheels. 16" 7J ET 40 Can get them for little money, and maybe I do for future plans. First I have to wreck the tires that are on the car for now
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« Last Edit: April 30, 2010, 09:28:55 pm by Oetker »
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I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different. Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
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Anders Dinsen
Administrator
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« Reply #33 on: May 12, 2010, 02:09:43 pm » |
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If that is the case, then I wonder if the PremiumContact2 also are the new "Ecopia" rated tires too. Apparently that is a EU requirement for increased fuel ecconomy, but it makes the compound harder and reduces grip. You want grip, grip and more grip on the Murena! For fun, and safety. I can highly recommend Yokohama s.drive with it's wide contacts patch and grippy compound. Unfortunately they seem to be only available from 15 inch sizes, except for a single 185/55R14 size, which I'm running front. My rears are c.drive, and they're ok too, but much softer in the carcass and quite a different tyre. Thinking back, I'd probably choose A.drive for rears instead. /Anders
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142 (under restoration) 2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah 2024 VW id.buzz Pro
Used to own: 2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v 1997 Renault Matra Espace 2.0 8V 1987 Renault Matra Espace J11 2.2
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Jon Weywadt
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Posts: 1002
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« Reply #35 on: May 25, 2010, 09:47:07 pm » |
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We shall se after I get them mounted next week. After all this trouble I sure hope they perform well. Otherwise I may bite the bullet and drop the original alloys. I'd hate that. Got the Continental PremiumContact 2 tires mounted this afternoon. Leaving the shop I got into a serious downpour, so I am happy to report that the tires performed quite well. Heading north on the freeway in the rain I came up on trafic and had to slow down to about 60. Something made me look up in the rearview mirror, where I saw a Suzuki Swift loose control, heading sideways for my rear end. A quick flick of the steering wheel got me over to the right as he passed me in the grass in the median. He regained control and everyone was safe and I am sure he was really awake after that. I was. About the tires, I can say that the ride is much more comfortable and quiet. My suspicion is that this will mean that the responsivenes is not as good as my old Firestone firehawks. But we shall see. It does feel like there is a bit more roll from the rear, when I turn quickly. First hand impression is that they would not perform well on the track. But then, ..I don't drive on the track, and the drive to work every day will be more comfortable. I will try to learn the limits of this tire, though. Perhaps a day on "Sjællandsringen" one of our Danish tracks where you can get to know your car under different road conditions. More later.
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Matranaut par excellence
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roy4matra
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« Reply #38 on: May 26, 2010, 11:39:50 pm » |
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But about these PremiumContact 2 tires. I am wondering what would be the best pressure to inflate them to. I did not remember the correct setting, so Ijust told the shop to put 32 PSI in both front and rear.
No, no, no. A mid-engined car, especially with different size tyres front and rear would never have the same pressures in the front and rear. With the front that hard you wouldn't have very good grip or handling! :-) Why do we have different pressures for different cars, different tyres, etc. The pressure and the cross-sectional area are to hold the weight on that wheel and tyre. So the more weight the more pressure. This is the reason you put more pressure in any vehicles tyres if you are carry a heavy load. However, a larger area means the pressure can come down compared to a smaller one as pressure load related to area. So when you put bigger wheels and tyres on a car often the pressure is slightly less. The FAQ's on my website have the tyre pressures for Bagheera and Murena, and the Murena should have a sticker in the door jam and another in the handbook. The front (which is light remember) only requires 1.8 bar but the rear must have 2.5 bar for a 2.2 model. The 1.6 requires different pressures depending on whether it has the 13" 70 profile or the 14" 60 profile tyres. Although the handbook gives two figures, one for low speed and another for loaded/high speed use, I would recommend keeping them at the high speed setting. It is so easy to get the Murena up to speed, if you only had the low speed rating you would have to seriously limit your speed! :-) Roy
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« Last Edit: May 27, 2010, 12:04:46 am by roy4matra »
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Jon Weywadt
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« Reply #40 on: May 27, 2010, 08:49:42 am » |
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I agree completely with Roy: 1.8 and 2.5 bar front and rear, respectively. I'd like to add, however, that new tyres need to be run-in for a few hundred km at least.
/Anders
Thanks Roy and Anders. I guess I was right to increase the rear to 36 psi ~ 2.5 bar. But I will drop down the front to 26 psi ~ 1.8 bar and be patient over the next couple of hundre Km, to see how it handles. These tires do, however, seem to have softer side walls than my old Firestone, Firehawk. Like I wrote, the ride is much quieter and comfortable. I don't get the harsh "clunk" from the suspension when going over a pot hole, that I got before. One more question. What is the correct torque when tightening the wheel bolts?
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Matranaut par excellence
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roy4matra
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« Reply #41 on: May 27, 2010, 10:11:04 am » |
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These tires do, however, seem to have softer side walls than my old Firestone, Firehawk. Like I wrote, the ride is much quieter and comfortable. I don't get the harsh "clunk" from the suspension when going over a pot hole, that I got before.
That may well be true but it doesn't really change the pressures and particularly the front/rear ratio that should be used. Different tyres have different compounds and characteristics, which is why some are better in the wet, or dry, and have different wear rates and life. One more question. What is the correct torque when tightening the wheel bolts?
The workshop manual states 6.3 daNm or ranging between 5 and 7.5 daNm. If they have regularly been tightened higher than these, by tyre fitters that overuse air wrenches, then I would say you can use even up to 9 daNm, but they should not be any tighter than that. It will only make them difficult to remove some time later! Roy
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roy4matra
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« Reply #43 on: May 27, 2010, 10:52:26 am » |
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The workshop manual states 6.3 daNm or ranging between 5 and 7.5 daNm.
If they have regularly been tightened higher than these, by tyre fitters that overuse air wrenches, then I would say you can use even up to 9 daNm, but they should not be any tighter than that. It will only make them difficult to remove some time later!
Roy
Thanks, I will check the torque this weekend. I always apply copper grease to threads and cones before installing hte wheel bolts. I find that they do not "freeze up" when using that. Again no Jon or anyone else. Copper reacts with aluminium owing to their position in the periodic table. Copper can make an alloy wheel stick not keep it free. We used to find truck alloy wheels very difficult to remove after people had used copper grease. The correct grease is Alumslip. It is an aluminium version of copper grease if you like. Roy
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