Glue for murena body panels

[LarsB]

I have just removed the left rear fender of my murena to fix some waterleaks.

The question is, Wich glue should I use to glue it back in?

I will also reglue my roof and the front windshield

Lars Bjørdal

[Anders Dinsen]

The modern automotive window glue should work AFAIK (the black silicone stuff), but let's hear it from the experts!

[LarsB]

I have found two products i think might work

butyl 37
Terostat-2759

Does anyone know if these are sutable for the murena?

[LarsB]

BUMP, 

[klumzer]

Hmm... interest was quite low in this subject... 

Any experience would be appreciated concerning how to remove the roof and the rear fender and how to install them again.

LarsB, which adhesive was better?

 

[JL]

This is the best adhesive that I have used.

http://www.hex.co.uk/tds/upol/tigerseal.pdf

Regards
John

[klumzer]

Thanks. I will look for it or a similar one.

Is it difficult to remove the rear fender? Is there any trick to avoid damages to glass-fibre parts?

The front part of the car does not look so complicated to disassemble but the rear... 

[Matra_Hans]

Removing the rear fenders is a difficult, time consuming and cumbersome job if the glue is in good condition. However heating the glue with an electric heat will make the glue soft and will make the work easier.
In order to remove the roof you need to remove the front wind screen. Removing the front wind screen includes a risk of breaking the wind screen.
Hans

[klumzer]

Hmm... it won't be easy...

Thanks.

[Oetker]

Quote
--------
butyl 37
Terostat-2759

Does anyone know if these are sutable for the murena?
============================================
No, best is to look for a PU glue-kit. (polyurethane)

[LarsB]

I ended up removing windshield (broke during disassembly)  Removing the roof and both rear windows and fenders. 

As Hans is saying, it is time consuming and frustrating work.  Heat does help.

When putting the fenders back in place, I used a combination of non setting butyl sealant, and in some other areas polyrutan glue. 

You do not want to use windshield mounting glue. you want to use a weak glue,  there are large bonding areas and rivets. Absolutely no need for strong adhesive, just makes life terrible when it has to be redone

Oh and remember to put back in the plastic sheeting inside the fenders,  you wont be able to seal the boot without   

Lars

[GP]

I have my roof panel off at the moment to replace it, so the advice on using U-Pol Tigerseal is  appreciated.

Can anyone reccomend a product for sticking the black flexible plastic trim that runs either side from the base of the windscreen and up and over to the rear of the car?

I have bought double sided foam tapes from automotive shops in the past but they have not been too successful!

Thanks in advance,

GP

[JL]

Hi Graham

I have used Tigerseal on the roof and double sided tape on the trim; the roof is straightforward enough you just need to give all parts a good clean with a degreasing thinner. The plastic trim needs all remnants of the old adhesive removing again using thinners or another solvent, I then stuck the double sided tape to the trim taking care not to stretch the tape, the screen and shell were cleaned with a degreasing thinner and the trim applied. Once the trim was applied to the edge of the screen there was a gap between the trim/screen and the bodyshell, I masked along the trim and the bodyshell and filled the gap with Tigerseal to get rid of the water trap also where the trim goes over the roof panel you can mask off and apply Tigerseal as a filler and adhesive - when the masking is removed you do not notice the filled gaps.

Hope this helps.

Regards
John

[GP]

Hi John,

Thanks for the prompt reply and information.

I did not use a degreasing thinner so that is why the tape kept lifting then. 

F.Y.I. After many years of track excursions into Armco, Road Cones, Electric Fences and Earth Banks I finally ran out of space for stickers to cover up the bodywork damage, so the car is currently in a bodyshop for a full respray.
I took all the panels off (except the rear wings), as the body shop said it would be cheaper and I would get a better job. I had loosened the roof panel by drilling out all the rivets and breaking the glue quite easily. but employed a windscreen fitter to take the windscreen out successfully, which was a relief.
There was actually a lot of rust on the front scuttle under the winscreen so this is all being treated and repainted also.

I hope to get the car/pieces back this week in it's new darker Chrysler "retro" silver colour I chose after the original Matra Silver didn't work out too well. They reckon it will look like an Aston Martin! 

I intend to refit all the panels with M5/M4 rivnuts fitted to the chassis and large dome headed aluminium Pro Bolts for ease of replacement.

Regards,

Graham

[JL]

Hi Graham

The rust on the front scuttle is all too common! I also removed all panels with the exception of the roof and rear wings, it was less soul destroying dealing with the individual parts rather than the whole vehicle and easier to spray.
I attached the  front wings with large headed rivets in the end but I did consider plastic rivets as they are very easy to remove. Cleanliness is most important with trim adhesives and it also help if everything is warm with no risk of condensation etc at this time of the year

Regards
John