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GP
Sr. Member
Posts: 302
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« Reply #91 on: October 24, 2015, 05:12:01 am » |
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Went to Brise on friday afternoon and found their new premises, unfortunately they finished early and had left!  Will try again next week. Meanwhile this thread has kick-started me into fitting a float level switch into my expansion tank. I have had this switch sitting in a draw for sometime: http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/float-switchAs they point out it is very cheap insurance against an expensive engine rebuild. The tank Brise builds has a baffle plate inside for strength, so I will check the clearance in my existing tank which has now been removed and if O.K. drill a hole and mount the float level switch. If the plate is too high I will make sure any future tanks fabricated have this plate lower down. Reference the wiring of the float level switch, I previously received this useful information from Roy Gillard on how to connect it up. This does apply to me as I have my brake pad indicators disconnected: "If you do fit this switch there is possibly an even easier way to wire
it up. I assume it has two wires to it, and these connect when the
float is down, to bring on a warning light.
The Murena already has a warning light system built in. The one
activated when you press the middle button on the left. This is
normally for the brake fluid low level and pads worn, but can be used
for the coolant too.
You would take one of the wires from that switch and earth it. The
other wire needs to connect to the warning light system, and you have a
connection over on the right for the rear pad (but it is rarely
connected) So if yours is not connected for the rear pad, then connect
that to the coolant float wire.
Now when the float drops and connects the two wires together, the earth
will be provided to bring on the dash warning light."Will keep you posted on any updates on this little project: Visited Brise again today Monday 26th. October. Tim said he had had contact with you and would prefer me to act as the middle man. He will give me a price for making x 4 (cheaper than one!) then if anyone calls him in future he will direct them to me. When you have decided the inlet pipe O.D. I will call him and get a price. I have left him the original tank, chassis bracket and straps along with my aluminium tank so he can price things up. I will pm you the cost price for one and then you can make your decision. |
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« Last Edit: October 26, 2015, 04:15:21 pm by GP »
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jlg
Newbie
Posts: 20
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« Reply #92 on: October 28, 2015, 01:01:52 am » |
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Hi Graham, This is slightly off-topic, but would they be able to make a Murena S manifold from an original? Unlike the real thing, it would not be cast but welded as Simon made in the past:  Regards, JL. |
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njesper
Sr. Member
Posts: 128
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« Reply #97 on: October 30, 2015, 02:02:50 pm » |
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Hi again Graham,
My situation is a little special due to the fact that I have a v6 instead of the original 2.2.
I just measured the tud above the waterpump on the alfa v6 engine (where the tube goes to, from the upper stud on the header tank), and it measured only 6mm.
So I guess, that the upper stud - for my murena setup - should be 6mm in diameter.
Regarding the other possible "customers" to this batch, I seem to remember that the 2.2 had a brass-adapter for the upper stud on the header tank. Would 6mm actually work for them also?
Another thought - if you get brise to actually check the inner baffle plate for an optional level-mounting, perhaps they could make a pre-drilled mounting hole for this also?
Looking forward to getting a quote, based on this.
Thanx, Jesper
Denmark
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GP
Sr. Member
Posts: 302
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« Reply #100 on: November 02, 2015, 10:46:29 am » |
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Graham,
You have a genuine S manifold which you do not use? You're a godsend!
I saw that your car uses a straight manifold (same model as mine). Does it give better performance (identical, shorter path for each cylinder?) or is it to minimise the lever on the cylinder hear (shorter manifold)?
I want to move away from this type of manifold because too many things foul (cooling pipes on carbs, distributor connector on thermostat housing, alternator tensioning bracket etc) and the carburettor barrel of cylinder 1 is 2 inches away from the petrol tank, preventing me from fitting an air box. Your improved petrol tank addresses the last issue!
Unfortunately, I had too much to do today to call Brise. Hopefully tomorrow!
Cheers,
JL.
Hi JL, No unfortunately I do not have a spare original "S" manifold. Mine is the short one made by Politechnic which is the same as yours and why I have the smaller petrol tank. The only reason I used it was because that was all that was available. Nothing technical or performance related to this length other than I wanted to bolt on twin carbs. http://www.politecnic.com/piecescarburation.htmI have never personally seen an "S" Spec inlet manifold, so if this is what you want to copy you really need to beg, borrow or steal one  before talking to Brise. Cheers, Graham |
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GP
Sr. Member
Posts: 302
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« Reply #102 on: November 04, 2015, 12:16:22 pm » |
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Oops, I already emailed Brise on Sunday saying I could find an original to use as a pattern. Luckily they have not answered yet!
The original S sets the carburettors higher and the left one (Cyl 1 & 2) is moved closer to the other one. It also moves the thermostat housing further back and to the right.
Now I need to find one...
Cheers,
JL.
Hi JL, Don't worry I just had a chat with Tim at Brise about your e-mail manifold request and I said I would respond to you for him. Apart from the sample manifold he will need a cylinder head and a pair of carburettors to jig up the whole assembly. I have an old cracked head you can borrow, but I do not have the carburettors. He says he is willing to take on the project. He can fabricate this using a C.N.C. machine to make the flanges and weld in the required manifold pipes. Cost wise though it is very difficult for him to give you a quote without the actual manifold to see. He will only do quality work, so I would not expect this one off to be particularly cheap though. Cheers, Graham |
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