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Author Topic: 2001 2.2 DCi Cam timing alignment?  (Read 3352 times)
johnbuz
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« on: May 17, 2008, 10:17:25 am »

Hi

Does anyone know which way round the cams need to be to replace cam belt. This engine came to me with cambelt/head/piston damage so I have not seen it correctly aligned.

I see the pulley ends of the cam shafts have a large flat and a small flat, and I know they have to be verticle, but how?

Big flats to the back of the engine or to the front, or facing each other or away from each other?

By the way, what a job to remove this engine from an Espace, never seen so much wiring!!

What are the timing marks for the cranks shaft to to cam belt drive? Had block apart to repair damaged piston.

There seems to be a lack of information for these engines.

Many thanks
John
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roy4matra
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Posts: 693



« Reply #1 on: May 29, 2008, 08:43:42 pm »

Does anyone know which way round the cams need to be to replace cam belt. This engine came to me with cambelt/head/piston damage so I have not seen it correctly aligned...

By the way, what a job to remove this engine from an Espace, never seen so much wiring!!

What are the timing marks for the cranks shaft to to cam belt drive? Had block apart to repair damaged piston.

There seems to be a lack of information for these engines.

It's the way Renault seems to work!  The engines no longer have timing marks - everything is done by locking items in a specific place, which means you have to use special tools.  The crank is locked in place with a timing pin.  The cams are locked in place with another tool that goes across the slots in the back of the cams (opposite end to the gears).  Belts often have white marks in specific teeth that have to be lined up with marks on gears.  Cam gears are locked in place by more pins, etc.  Some or all of these are used depending on which engine you have.  Tension of belts are set with a sound tool - effectively you flick the belt at a specific point with the microphone of another special tool held in the right place, and it tells you by the sound it picks up, if the belt is tight enough, loose or too tight.

Other oddities (for those of us used to more conventional systems) are the crank gear not being locked to the crank by a keyway.  It is only locked by friction once the pulley is tightened on.  There are no repair sizes available - no oversize pistons, rings, or undersize main or big-end bearing shells. (at least not from Renault)  You cannot skim the head.  Once the engine is worn, in any way, it is scrap.

When I first started with Renault UK in 2000, it was a big change from anything I had done previously.  Their technicians are taught the correct way to set up an engine, but the average mechanic would not know where to start, so the home DIY mechanic stands little chance!  Strictly speaking, Renault don't want any non-trained people working on their engines, gearboxes, or electronics etc.

You need to at least read the correct document for doing this sort of job.  For me to provide the right one I need your vehicle details.  VIN, and Fabrication No. so I can look up the details on the Renault system; or if you have it, engine type and number at least.

Roy
« Last Edit: May 29, 2008, 08:48:25 pm by roy4matra » Logged

johnbuz
Jr. Member
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Posts: 25


« Reply #2 on: May 31, 2008, 05:00:38 pm »

Hi Roy

Engine is a G9T 710, I have now completely reassembled the engine.

I had bore one resleeved,  new piston/rings

Crank thrust bearing face machined back and oversize thrust washer made (clutch had pushed crank into block damaging the thrust face of the crank, with minor damge to the block girdle, but not block - strangley.

I have sussed all the timing marks, slot cut into crank counter weight accessed by oil filter mounting bolt, fuel pump cog timing against mark on backplate (pump itself not timed, but electronic pickup on face of cog is, cast raised block)

The only thing I haven't sussed is the cam timing, valves are all closed with the large cam shaft cutout forward or back, so not sure which way they should be.

All I know is that the flats should be at right angles to the head face , but don't know which way round they should be.

I will get hold of a franklin cam timing kit, but it would be nice to be able to do the whole engine without resort to jigs etc.

I have sent my injectors off to 'Diesel Bob' for refurb as they have all been tested by my local Lucas depot and found to be seized open, the engine ran fine before cam belt broke at 63K miles. God knows why they should all seize up......more expense!

So awaiting the return of the injectors, cam timing to do, bung the gearbox back on, and then back in to the hole, and fire the damn thing up!

John
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Martin Tyas
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Espace, because it's worth it!


« Reply #3 on: June 01, 2008, 02:49:56 pm »

John

Section 11 of the attached Technical Note covering the G9T engine should help you

Martin
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2002 Grand Espace 2.2dCi "The Race"
2003 Astra 1.8i Cabriolet "Edition 100"
1991 BMW 520i SE Auto
2011 Insignia SRi VX-Line Red
johnbuz
Jr. Member
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Posts: 25


« Reply #4 on: June 02, 2008, 11:11:41 am »

Hi Martin

Many thanks for that, looks like both cams have the larger flat pointing forward, and at right angles to the head face.

I have hired a timing kit anyway, because I wasn't sure I would have an answer to this before the engine went back in. Kit is due here today.

Many thanks for your help.

Kind Regards
John
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